Currently the antenna coax runs from the amplifier through a hole in a plate on the roof to the antenna. I would have assumed a waterproof coax fitting that the coax screws into but the cable simply runs through the hole in the roof with dicor around the cable to seal the hole. is this correct? If not is there a fitting that nounts into this plate or does the entire rooftop mounting plate need to be changer?
I changed mine to run under the plate when I installed my satellite cable. I also replaced the cable with a new RG56 single length
I redid the antenna cable pass through when I installed a Wilson 4G booster and an Omni directional antenna. I added a CAT 6 cable for a planned Nanostation WIFI base station at that time. Ours had a pass through COAX bulkhead fitting on an aluminum plate and the antenna up proximity switch wire was just run under the plate with gobs of caulking to seal it. I ran the new antenna COAX and antenna up alarm wire through one of the stainless Blue Sea Cable Clams (Side Entry CableClam with Stainless Steel Dress Cap - Blue Sea Systems (http://www.bluesea.com/products/1007100/Side_Entry_CableClam_with_Stainless_Steel_Dress_Cap)) and the CAT 6 through the other. I made a new plate out of 16 gauge stainless and enlarged the original hole and added another to accommodate the clam shells. They are used in marine applications and I got these at West Marine locally, though cheaper on line.
Don
They sell this solution at CW (for what it's worth...)
KING Coax Cable Entry Cover - KING CE2000 - Satellite Antenna Accessories -... (http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/king-coax-cable-entry-cover/85649&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp85649&sc_intid=85649&affiliateid=6313&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2cLJpsGb2AIVhl5-Ch2j7guXEAkYDyABEgJvifD_BwE)
Originally that aluminum plate had a coax connector that the cable inside the coach screwed into and the coax on the antenna on the roof screwed into the top part of the connector. Many times this connector got corroded and so looks like someone took the easy rout and eliminated the connector in the plate.
Don excuse my ignorance but how does the new device seal water out.? I went to the web page and watched the video of a different device that had a split stopper but the one you have doesn't look like it has one. I would like to get rid of the split screwed go thru that's up there also. Did you have to cut and splice the antenna up switch I assume.
I recommend:
- Eliminate pass-through connectors to reduce signal degradation. Each connector can significantly increase SWR at UHF frequencies.
- Eliminate possibility of connector corrosion.
- Feed all coax cables straight through the roof. (I fed three cables in one hole: One TV and two cell antenna cables)
- Waterproof entry using gray electrician's putty, available at Home Depot.
- Install strain-relief inside coach ceiling to eliminate cable movement. ( L bracket and ty-wraps)
HDFF,
View the video in the link and you will see.
John M
Side Entry CableClam with Stainless Steel Dress Cap - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/1007100/Side_Entry_CableClam_with_Stainless_Steel_Dress_Cap)
John that's the video I watched and it is not the one don used, the clam cover he used is the one you linked but it claims to be for side mounting and doesn't have the "heart" center gland. I assume don just used a sealant in there
RG56 is 50 ohms and will result in mismatch between the antenna and TV. RG59 or better yet, RG6 are 75 ohms and right for the application.
50 ohm solid conductor RG56 is used a lot in computer work while braided RG58 and RG200 are good for radio communications.
Pierce
HDFF,
I think this is the one in the video and looks like a better connection. A more water proof connection.
John M.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1002100/CableClam_with_Stainless_Steel_Dress_Cap_0.83in
Yes the side entry without sealant is not as waterproof as the the one with the top entry and split rubber bushing that gets compressed. In my opinion, though the instructions make no mention of it, the side entry model needs a bit of sealant before you screw the plastic cap on. I could have used the top entry version for the CAT 6 cable, but the one that has the antenna coax also has the alarm wire (which I did cut and splice to reroute) and so would not have sealed properly without some sealant added. Besides, I wanted the low profile of the side entry. There has been no water intrusion through the penetration, so I am satisfied that the penetrations are well sealed and the stainless caps keeps UV from being a factor down the road.
Don