This afternoon topped of with 60 gal of Diesel from Buc-ee's No:17 located at 10070 West IH-10
Luling, TX 78648 about 160 miles later, buzzing sound from the dash with "ENGINE MAINT" Yellow light came on. Looked over the VMS 200 EL Engine Diagnostics reported "WATER IN FUEL" I kept driving. Engine did not lose any power but the buzzing kept on with Yellow "engine maint" light on. Buzzing stopped and warning yellow light went off within 5-10 miles. Few miles later all came on again, I kept driving, also turned on Aqua diesel and the Generator on. After that the event repeated itself 3 more times and stopped. We arrived to our destination. This all happened within 45-50 miles of arriving to our final destination. While checking in and doing few other things I let the engine run for about 30 min or so. We have 350 mil road to get back home this Saturday. I do have spare (one set) fuel filters. I prefer not to change it where we are but it would be less troublesome than middle of the highway on the way back. BTW the drive was all under steady rain. I did check gas tank caps and both are tight. Driving this ISL 400, 2003 FT for about 7000 miles this has never happened before. On my previous 94 FT there was no computer so if it ever had water in the fuel I would not have known it. Do I panic and change fuel filters and when I get home empty the diesel tank or do i keep driving (if it starts and drives) until next fuel filter change is due ? Have you ever had that dash warning and those of you do have the computer VSM, have you ever received the water in fuel diag code?
Drain some fuel from the primary filter in to a clean glass jar ,let it settle and check for water.
drain the fuel into a glass jar as stated above. If it gets cold tonight where you are the water will freeze and you will have to wait till it warms up to start up. Also re prime it after you take a bit of the fuel out either with the electronic razor system or with the push in pump. It will take a few mins for it to settle out but if you have the clear bottomed filter housing you can see the water. It might look brown thru the plastic too but it will not look green like fuel.
Sounds like a couple bottles of "HEAT" dumped into your fuel tank is in order. This stuff works very well and may be all that you need to do. Dump it in, give it some time to equalize in the tank, then run your engine long enough to clear the lines and filters of moisture. Have a great day ---- Fritz
Fritz,
Is this what you are suggesting "HEAT" (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/iso-heet-3877/chemicals---fluids-16461/fuel-system-16569/fuel-treatment-17696/heet-iso-heet-fuel-line-antifreeze-water-remover/28202/4368685) I just don't see it say for diesel fuel. Some folks suggest adding some rubbing alcohol. I just don't want to put something in there that is going to help for short term but not good for long term. I will go see what they have at the Auto Parts store in the AM.
Found this one that should be stocked in most auto parts stores. I have never used it. Let us know if you try it and it works!
Diesel Dry™ Diesel Water Remover, 12 Fl Oz - 05670 (http://www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-dry-8482-diesel-water-remover-12-fl-oz-05670.html)
Didn't we used to add bottles of dry gas to our cars gas tank in a cold climate, back in the day?
Probably can't do it with diesel IDK.
Features & Benefits
"ISO-HEET premium fuel-line antifreeze, water remover & injector cleaner is the premium gas-line antifreeze that absorbs up to 5 times the water of regular gas dryers. It is designed for year round use in all 2 and 4 cycle gas and diesel engines. ISO-HEET prevents rust and corrosion by getting the water out. This anti-freeze can be used with every fill up in below freezing temperatures or whenever you want to absorb water from gas or diesel fuel. This product comes in an easy pour 12 Oz. bottle."
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-engine-cleaners-additives/fuel-additive-and-cleaner/heet-12-oz-iso-gas-dryer-and-antifreeze/136368_0_0
Do NOTHING in terms of additives until you have drained a little from the primary fuel filter and VERIFIED that you indeed have water or other contaminant in the fuel.
Could be a bad connection or water in the connection.
What about someone for mobile fuel polishing?
Brett,
I drained about 12 floz in to a clear bottle. There was some brown looking gunk, about a quarter & a penny size. I am letting it sit for a bit to see if there is any water, I think should sink and settle in the bottom.
"Could be a bad connection or water in the connection" Some connections maybe easy to check, such as to and from the fuel filters but i am not sure if i can check any other from the fuel tank. The rain we drove in was not a heavy rain, not heavier then when i drove through before, I hope no rain water is finding its way in to the fuel.
I mobil service to suck/drain the fuel and filter it?
We are in Galveston, TX. If such service exists we are only 45 mil from Houston, it should be available from Houston.
Exact same thing happened to us during a heavy rain storm. Check the sensor wire coming out of the bottom of the secondary fuel filter which is mounted on the passenger side of the engine. In our case this sensor wire came loose. Re-seated it and check engine light went off. This sensor wire is what reported water in fuel.
Remember, this is not the primary fuel filter which is located near the engine start batteries. It is the secondary filter mounted to the engine which has the sensor wire connected to it.
Try changing your primary fuel filter. Got a load of bad fuel at a popular wholesale store an hour later same symptoms as yours. Changed the primary beside the road problem solved. Added biocide no further problems. Bottom line your primary may simply be stopped up.
Any tips & tricks on changing the Primary Fuel Filter?
Brett had wrote this on another fuel filter related post "when you remove the filter, fuel will run all the way back to the tank, leaving you with 30+ feet of AIR in the fuel line."
Access to my Primary Fuel filter is easy. It is located behind the rear tire, passenger side, over the engine batteries.
When I unscrew the filter is there going to be a lot of fuel spilling out? Do I have to move fast? I am looking at the new filter, which I see that i have to remove the see through plastic bottom section from the old to new. Bottom of the new filter looks like it will have to be tapped in to, cut in to or something, I am not sure how but once I take the old one out in my hand I can figure it out. I have replaced fuel filters before but not on this one. It was done at Cummins about 7000 mil ago.
Thank you,
AL
If you don't find a threaded collar on the bottom of the replacement filter, you may have the Baldwin BF1329 which doesn't use the clear bowl. The Baldwin BF1329 has a valve to open on the bottom of it for draining the filter and it can replace the Racor just fine. I used the Baldwin BF1329 through a couple of filter change cycles. Not having to deal with the separate clear bowl is convenient, especially if you will have to change the primary filter several times in short intervals to deal with a load of bad fuel. The only difference is that you don't have the clear bowl (which wasn't very clear on mine). To change the filter, just open the valve on the bottom and drain a pint or so out of it. Depending on how hight the fuel level in the tank is in relationship the the filter mount, you the fuel won't continue to drain out of the filter mount once you unscrew the filter. Just having a fairly shallow bucket to put under the assembly while you swap the filters will keep the mess to a minimum. Before you remove the old one, put a little lube on the sealing 'O' ring on top of the filter. You don't have to be too fast at it, so don't get performance anxiety :o . You should pre-fill the new filter with the bowl in place on the bottom, if using the Racor R90P( new 'O' rings come with the new filter). After installing the new filter, turn the key on and let the lift pump run. Do a few key on/off cycles waiting a bit in between to purge air from the system. This last bit about priming with the elcetronic lift pump is true with the ISC and ISL's equipped with the CAPS injection pump, but may not apply if your 03' is the common rail system, but the rest should apply.
Don
All fuel tanks are vented by pure necessity that being said, all tanks can get dew (water) inside of them. Most settles to the bottom, and can cause problems, aircraft typically have a petcock at the low point to drain said water. All fuel is contaminated to some degree. Diesels can run on low grade fuel by pure design, used filtered french fry oil you bet, once started and running at speed. At driving speeds a few drops of water would likely and do go unnoticed.
If you don't get water in the drained fuel it is the sensor that needs replacing. I had that happen once. It could be the connection but I just got a fuel filter and sensor from Cummins and replaced it. It happened to me on I 70 in Indy.
I would NOT replace a filter on finding only a "coin size" of contaminant. No way that amount would have triggered the "water in fuel" alarm.
Not suggesting it does not need to be changed, but not for only the reason you mentioned.
And, with the clear bowl filter, buy a spare bowl. Fit it on the new filter and then you can remove and clean the old one at your convenience.
There is no water in the sample fuel I drained from the Primary Fuel filter clear bowl.
INTERCOOLER can it add moisture in? Please see attached picture. We got here late last night. I just started looking around the engine this morning and noticed somewhat greasy moisture around the Intercooler where it bolts on to engine. This is also located right top of the second fuel filter where the sensors are maybe located/connected. Can this happen because we rode in the rain, should not be.
Thank you,
AL
No, intercooler is 100% air, so it could not put water in the FUEL.
And, since it is pressurized (lowest PSI at idle, but still no vacuum) air can leak OUT, but nothing can leak IN.
What I am seeing (in the picture black area) and feel in my hand must be condensation? It is something.
Ya, PSI inside ranges from 0 to over 40 PSI. So no leak from outside to inside.
Just started up and drove a mile from bay side RV spot to beach side. No alarms or diag code and engine was running just fine. Short distance and short time. I think I hope to just start it and drive it home this Saturday. I am not sure but maybe it was small amount. Wishful thinking for now.
Kolor Kut KKM3-TUBE Modified Water Finding Pastes, 2.5 oz, Dark Brown -... (https://www.amazon.com/Kolor-Kut-KKM3-TUBE-Modified-Finding/dp/B00596AHK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514506439&sr=8-2&keywords=color+kut+water+finding)
You can drop a string with a weight on the end into your tank. This paste will change color and indicate how much water in bottom of tank.
Does anyone know where a moisture sensor that triggers VMS & Cummins Diagnostic errors, is located? Is the add-on fuel filter sensor wired to engine computer?
Today I purchased ISO-HEET and BIOBOR JF. Before the 350 mil trip back home this Saturday should I put in HEET and BIOBOR together or just HEET for the trip and when we get home as usual fill it up and put in BIOBOR for sitting parked for few weeks?
Thank you,
Al
Does anybody know if Heet will migrate to the bottom of the tank in order to actually absorb the moisture, or just float on top of the diesel fuel?
PHRED ---- The HEET will chemicaly combine with the fuel and be there until it is used up in the process of eliminating the water. The more water in the tank, the more HEET that will be necessary. I think that it is good to just run some in the tank all of the time if you run alot in humid environments. The humidity in the air condenses in the tank as you burn fuel and air is pulled into the tank. That is the reason for the fuel filters with sediment bowls on them. Some even have drains. All of the old cars I used to have had sediment bowls on the gas line just before the carbuerator. I think that in this age of chemicals that the standard now is chemical treatment in lieu of separation and draining. In any event, just dump it in as you feel needed and have fun driving. Have a great day ---- Fritz
You can get a sample from the bottom of the tank using 4' of cheap plastic hose, a metal coat hanger and some zip ties. Straighten the coat hanger and bend it to allow you to reach the bottom of the fuel tank. Zip tie the hose to it so that you can get the end of the hose to the bottom of the tank.
Lean the coach so that your fuel fill is the LOWEST point of the tank. Wait at least a half hour for water to run downhill.
Suck on the other end of the hose until you see fuel in the hose. Remove hose/coat hanger from tank and pour into glass jar. What do you see?
Or buy a jiggle siphon and keep the fuel as something you don't know the taste of.
Ya, another alternative. But, with clear plastic hose, you would really have to WANT to taste fuel to suck it that last couple of feet.
A personal choice, but I prefer other forms of refreshment!
How about some Crown Royal.
A VERY long list of liquids preferable to diesel. Yes, Crown Royal would be in the top 1/4 on the list.
Crown is good but I am really digging forty creek these days
Barry, I guess you are not going to get an answer to your question that started this thread. Seems every one is into drinking diesel and rye whiskey, oh with water by the sounds of it!!! ^.^d
JohnH
Thanks John for getting us back on track.
Anyone know how engine computer senses there is water in fuel?
See you in Quartzsite John?
We use a $10 drill pump to pump fuel from bottom of tank into gallon glass jar, and then let jar sit still for a couple of days.
Usually the sensor is in the bottom of the filter assembly in the separator part. Quite often there is a drain there too. Put in the magic chemicals and drain the separator.
There was a sensor on my isc at the filter on the engine not the rancor one under the side compartment.
This is the sensor wire connection that disconnected and caused our check engine light recently. Simple as inserting and. Seating properly to stop problem.
I don't see any wires "coming out of the bottom" on our "secondary fuel filter" There are some on the top (I think) but hard to see, there is a bundle of wires pipes and hoses.
The water-in-fuel sensor is usually on the primary filter. It works by sensing the change in electrical conductivity of the fuel caused by water.
On our ISC it is on secondary fastened to block.
JohnH
Barry we will still be in Mexico so will miss Q
I think heet is alcohol based allowing water and fuel to mix
We just got home without any issues. I ended up putting only 4 containers of ISO HEET. 4 is good for 80 gal. I had about ~130 gal of diesel. I did not change fuel filters, they are 7K mil new and there was no water in the sample I had drained from the primary fuel filter. I have no clue where and how "water in fuel" alarm and diag came from for about 40-50 mil. Perhaps it was the sensor.
Don, et al,
While subject is fresh. Please see attached pictures. I am puzzled with primary fuel filter. Part number on the current filter and the one I purchased are same but one has the clear bowl and the other (new one) don't have it. I somehow thought there is a way to remove and attach the clear bowl to new filter.
Link to pictures of primary fuel filter (https://goo.gl/photos/kBxehp3V2EG5FsTv5)on google pictures.
So what do you do, punch a hole to the under side of the new filter where the clear bowl will screw on?
From post #18:
And, with the clear bowl filter, buy a spare bowl. Fit it on the new filter and then you can remove and clean the old one at your convenience.
Thank you Brett. I do recall your response #18. I am struggling attaching pictures. Just done some work on my laptop. Please standby let me attach some pictures. Sorry about this.
pictures
I beleive I see threads on the black peice on the bottom of the filter in the picture. The bowl screws off the old one (this is when you find the plastic brittle and it can break) then clean the bowl and thread onto new filter. You do not need to punch a hole in the filter.
Propman, The pictures are a bit fuzzy, but I think I see where you are coming from. The end with the black plastic threads is where the bowl screws on and what looks like a sealed metal cover is a baffle. There should be slits around the circumference just inside the threads. It is not possible to see in the picture, but if you peel off the plastic wrapping, you should be able to see a gap between the black plastic threads and the baffle. If not, then I suppose a manufacturing defect is possible, but I would consider that highly unlikely.
Don
The clear bowl can be difficult to remove from the old filter. I use a regular filter wrench on the filter body and a strap wrench on the bowl to separate them.
And, easier to start (just get it started) removing the bowl while still in place-- unless you have a vice to put the filter in and want to get diesel on the vice. Much easier than trying to hold the filter AND turn the clear bowl.
They make a plastic wrench for that fuel bowl:
RACOR
Fuel Filter Bowl Wrench
RACOR Fuel Filter Bowl Wrench | West Marine (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/racor--fuel-filter-bowl-wrench--1930551)
Makes taking the bowl off a whole lot easier and less chance of cracking the bowl.
Randy, RE "This is the sensor wire connection" what wire are you talking about?
Barry, just noticed your post and question. Our u270 secondary fuel filter (the one attached to the engine) has a port on the bottom of the fuel filter which connects to a plug near the filter which presumably looks for water in that filter and activates the check engine light.
Thank you Randy. That makes sense that the sensor would be on an engine mounted filter. Interesting that your fuel filter has an electrical sensor. Do you know the brand and part number of that filter?
Barry
Secondary filter in question with sensor port is Fleetguard FS1022.
I just changed mine yesterday. The threads are on the black piece. I bought a new plastic bowl from NAPA and put it on the new filter and will do as Brett said, I will clean the old bowl for the next filter change.
Thanks Randy, With our different engine, I was not aware of this filter with a built-in water sensor. Very cool and practical.