Getting ready to replace both the gray and black waste valves. Any recommendationsor or tips before tackling the project. I flushed out tanks and I will be leaning the coach to the curb side to prevent any residual leakage. I will also be cleaning out the bay and rerouting the fresh tank overflow.
John M.
Should be a piece of cake for you John. As you know I did mine a few months back.
Mark
Coat the new slides and seals with 300 degree plumbers grease.
John, why not get the Drainmaster electric SS ones and be done with cables etc. I did it over a year ago and like it.
JohnH
Just label the wires for the pump and fill switches. It's pretty straightforward although a little awkward. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet and a couple of combination wrenches. Here's a few photos of what you'll see when you get it open.
If you're interested this would be a great time to cut an access door in the panel so you can see what's going on back there without removing the panels. I knocked off this idea from Steve and Michelle for our 320. The last two photos show the hole and the panel in place.
jor
Some folks put a cup of cheap vegetable oil down the drains to lubricate the empty tank valves just before their off-season storage.
Actually you could do this anytime during normal usage if you are having sluggish valve performance.
FYI, if changing the toilet seal to the floor and using wax seal .
ANY wax dropping that drops into the tank could block /gum-up the drain valve - requiring very patient disassembly for cleaning. Ah... don't ask me how I just happen to know this.
Jim
2002 U320 #5957
Currently enjoying the far southern TX "heat wave"
Are they leaking or do you just want piece of mind, John?
T-Man,
They are very tight to open and close. I figured if I am going to take them apart to clean, I might as well replace them with new ones.
John M.
As long as you are doing this you might consider adding a 3rd valve, It probably the best project we've done on our coach.
Question? Are the valve assemblies glued into the waste pipe bell? Seems that it would be nice if there was some sort of gasket there so that the whole valve assembly could easily be removed for service without cutting pipe.
Wantabe
Mine were glued. We cut them out.
I am sure this has been addressed before, but since we are on the topic, can you guide me as to which part (s) size pipe, other parts I should order. I want to add a third valve also. I like the idea of electric valves though.......???? any problems with them ??
I have not had any problems with mine so am happy so far.
JohnH
I changed mine and added a third valve. We like it.
Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=25056.msg197677#msg197677)
To simply replace the dump valves, it is not necessary to cut anything. Each waste valve consists of two flange assemblies, which are glued onto the waste pipes, and a center valve assembly section, which is bolted between the two flanges. To replace the valve, all you have to do is remove the 4 bolts, remove the old valve assembly, slide the new valve assembly in place, and reinstall the bolts.
If you wish to install a third dump valve, then you will have do some cutting. Every installation will be a little different, depending on how the waste pipes and original valves are positioned. Search "third dump valve" on this Forum to see MANY threads on different installations. See post below for sample photos of how it fit on our GV, and list of parts required:
Problems with third dump valve mod (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23338.msg181042#msg181042)
Tight valves: empty tank, close valves, pour in a quart of inexpensive vegetable oil, let it drain to bottom of tank against valve, quickly partially open and close valve several times to spread oil as a lubricant.
Valves will now be easy peasy to slide open and close.
As others have said no cutting to change valves. Remove 4 bolts, spread apart, clean all surfaces real well, put some plumbers silicone grease on new rubber gaskets, slip new valve between flanges, snug up 4 bolts.
Will have to deal with pull handles, maybe transfer handle parts to new valves.
I ended up replacing the valves. When I looked at the valves the seals were rolled. The cable body the goes into the valve was worn out from slipping out of the valve. On one valve where the cable body goes into the valve was cracked and they had a 2" C-Clamp squeezing it to hold the cable in place. A small job turned into a much larger project because now I replace the outdoor faucet, added the flush kit for the grey and black tank and added the EMS. I'll move this new project and any updates to Renvations. If their is a way to move this conversation to Renovations I will.
Thanks everyone for the input and help,
John M.
Since I was in the Utility Bay changing the waste valves, I decided to update the antique large neck faucet and replaced it with a smaller faucet with the quick disconnect and pigtail hose. Since the old faucet is gone , I used the holes from the old faucet to install my tank flush kit. The dilemma I am having is deciding where to drill in the tank. Initially I was going to drill on top on the flat of the tank but now I'm thinking of drilling lower on the angled portion of the tank close to the top of the tank. Where have some of you that have installed the flush nozzle on your tanks, have drilled?
Thanks, John M.
I did mine at the top position. I usually fill up right to that level. By the way, that's a fine lookin' wet bay!
jor
Just purchased some valterra waste valves to change out the old ones. for some reason I thought the gray tank valve was one and a half inches but now looking at it it looks like they're both three inches. Is this correct?
Also question about the electric valves. Did you have any problems installing them in that space? Did you use three? I want to redo that space because previous owners have dumped effluent there. I do have a third valve But need to set it up for the waste master hose connection. So I was going to insert it a little bit further into the bay for more room. since I do have a black water tank flush I'm wondering if the third valve is really necessary? Although I guess it does add a peace of mind.
So I wonder stay with the manual valves or switch to electric?
and that I really buy one and a half inch thou for no reason and have to return it to Amazon?
Thanks
Bob
Bob,
They are both three inch and I have a waste master type hose that stays hooked up all the time. The nozzle valve works as a third valve. You can shut it to backwash the black tank with gray water.
Mark
Okay good to know thanks for that info. Returning the Valtura valves and order two drain master electrical valves. Going to go without the third valve. And like you said used a waste master valve as the third. I can always add it back on if I wanted to later.
That access door is a great Idea! I'm planning a COVID19 Stainless Steel Panel upgrade right now. Thanks.
After my previous "Black Tank Full Frontal Assault" I'd never go without a 3rd Valve again. I knew better but did not add it when I got this rig. I'm going to check out those electric valves, see if they will fit.
As has been said I'm going to use the waste master hoses the third valve and leave the waste master hose permanently attached to the end of the waste pipe. Seems like it should be ok and if not can modify it. Two of the electric valves were slightly more cash than three of the manual ones.
As usual, time will tell.
Well, it's my turn. I was able to dump my black tank this morning but not the gray tank. The handle on the Valtera (inside) valve pulled out like it should but the valve stayed closed. Any help will be greatly appreciated. What part(s) do I need, and what is the procedure?
You just buy this whole cassette looking thing at your local RV store and swap it in. Easy job when you have that kind of access. If you're smarter than the average bear, you'll find a way to dump your gray tank first :))
That's what I was hoping for, as far as the 4 bolts and swap. I'm in a remote part of NV but Amazon is my friend now they they will deliver to General Delivery at some (but not all) post offices . I see they have 1.5 and 3" valves available. I have to believe mine is 3".
How would a smart bear empty his gray water tank?
Welp, if it were me I'd probably wait until I had the new valve in hand and then go to town on the old one with a wonder saw until I was able to get some needle-nose pliers on enough of the valve to open it slightly. I will keep my fingers crossed that there's a smarter bear in here with a better idea than that.
Thanks Elliott. This might be a good time to change out the 35 year old black tank valve before I put anything in that tank.
Definitely a good idea to swap out the old Black Tank valve while you are "in" there. I just went through this exercise myself. Fortunately my black tank valve failed in the OPEN position, so I dodge a bullet there. The valves on my '90 GV are a little harder to get to than your setup, so I swapped in a new Grey Tank valve while I was at it. Great insurance...
Aren't the valve handles on a threaded rod?
If you're going to replace the valve, you might try a long screw and a pair of pliers to try and gently pull the existing valve open.
The valve handles are on a rod. I don't know whether it's threaded at either end. All I know is when I pull out the handle for the gray valve, the rod pulls out but the valve does not open like it should. The handle will rotate. I just tried that, and rotating it clockwise doesn't tighten it.
I ordered 2 new valves. Maybe when they arrive and I get them installed I'll do an autopsy.
First recommendation: Wear OLD, crappy clothes.
Second recommendation: Have a pressurized fresh water hose handy.
Third recommendation: A washtub or be in an area where the water coming out won't offend.
Fourth recommendation: Nice pine aerosol spray can handy.
Fifth recommendation: Use a brush or a tool to remove whatever might still be lurking in the upstream pipe.
Sixth recommendation: you might want to drill a 1/8" diameter hole thru the end cap, 3/4" away from under the new handle, and shoot some white lithium or plumber's grease in the hole.
Seventh recommendation: Pray for zero leakage after your rebuild.
Does the handle pull completely out? You might be able to get the slide to come up by prying it
No. The handle pulls out to a point, just like as if it was opening the valve. Either the valve is not opening or it is opening and there is an obstruction. I should note that very little goes into my grey tank. Maybe 8 ounces of water a day and it was about 60 days since I last dumped the tanks so there's probably about 4 gallons in there. It could be that, as Nitehawk suggested, there is sludge in the upstream pipe because my grey tank usage has been the same for the 9 years that I've owned this coach.
I have ordered new valves and will kick this job down the road to my next dump. Maybe I won't need them. Considering the possibility of a sludge blockage, does anyone have a suggestion for something that will break it up and liquify it?