Well this is interesting..
transfer pump keeps cycling after a flush, completes the pump/transfer to black tank cycle, waits 30 seconds and cycles again and again..
researching..
2002 320.
Something is stuck... pun intended :))
Got to looking.. looks like one of the screws holding the electric motor to the pump is missing and wobbles, dark now but will look further in the morning (after it warms up a bit)
And yes we went camping this weekend!
Is the toilet bowl holding water? If not, the vacuum is sucking air and it will continue to run. If that's the case you need to clean the seal at the flapper inside the bowl.
OK, will see if I can find the info for operating the toggle switches on the toilet...in the morning.
But it seems to hold a little bit of water in the bowl.
If it's sucking down water, that is why the pump is running on and off. We use a round headed toilet brush to clean the seal after using the switch to hold the flapper valve open.
thnx! will give that a whirl, and give a dose of lube if I can find some without paying an arm and a leg @ Crappy World.
If this is a VacuFlush (sounds like it is), when's the last time it had PM? Duckbills, new bowl seal, etc?
If it's holding water in the bowl but losing vacuum in the line, it could be something in the plumbing or the vacuum generator itself (seals, vacuum switch, etc.)
Finally got the ball to open, seal may be shot but will try cleaning first.
Where is the best place to go for a new seal and duck bills?
Next issue to pop up is the diesel side of the Aqua-Hot seems to randomly fail to fire,ie: the light on the rocker switch @ the sink goes out, if I flip off then back on the boiler fires back up.. bad /loose wire connection at the switch or I didn't get one of the wiresplugged back in secure @ the limit switches I replaced?
That's a common symptom of the coil starting to fail. The standard test is to exercise the coil 100 times and replace it if it fails once.
A marine place. We used Marine Toilets | RV | Tanks | Environmental Marine Services Inc (https://www.environmentalmarine.com/)
If you still have the original vacuum generator, consider getting the W-pump upgrade kit. Gets you a new motor and bellows as well. VacuFlush Pump Rebuild (http://www.irvblog.com/foretravel%20projects/VacuFlush-Toilet-Vacuum-Pump-Rebuild/)
KIT, WHISPER MOTOR UPGRADE - 12VDC 311423 (REPLACES 310245) - Environmental... (https://www.environmentalmarine.com/products/kit-whisper-motor-upgrade-12vdc-311423-replaces-310245.html) just the upgrade kit for the motor and bellows
MAJOR 12 VOLT "S" PUMP REBUILD KIT KS0012 - Environmental Marine Services, Inc. (https://www.environmentalmarine.com/products/major-12-volt-s-pump-rebuild-kit-ks0012.html) for the upgrade kit plus duckbills (you should have the 1 1/2" ones in your coach)
I *think* this kit is actually everything, but since EM doesn't list the Magnum Opus on their site, I can't be sure about the bowl seal and flush ball MAJOR VACUUM PUMP AND TOILET REBUILD KIT 12 VOLT, WHITE CARTRIDGE (KRS012) -... (https://www.environmentalmarine.com/products/major-vacuum-pump-and-toilet-rebuild-kit-12-volt-white-cartridge-krs012.html)
Manuals to get you started http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=456
THANK YOU!
now to figure out just what the PO did or not to the system on any updating(s)
red
In our blog post, note the newer motor is larger and mounted at a different angle. That should help you figure out if it was upgraded already.
Duckbills need replacing every 3 years, minimum. The rubber gets hard and "material" builds up on them. Hard water also causes issues with them over time.
I wouldn't replace the bowl seal or flush ball unless you're having trouble with the flush mechanism sealing. Just carry the spares for when you do need them. If you don't have it, you'll need it. If you have it, you won't, at least in our experience with most spare parts ;-)
Well.. still fighting the 3048 turbo turd..
Rebuilt the vacuum pump replaced duckbills (with the updated motor & bellows..THANKYOU for suggesting!)
Replaced the half ball /seals/and double flat brass drive shaft with new "O" rings
STILL have pump cycling every 30 seconds (started out after all rebuilt at 6 minutes before cycling, has went from bad to worse every time I tear into it.
Isolated the vacuum pump and it holds vacuum for at least an hour
reclamped both ends of the connector hose from the toilet to the pump...no joy
The lower plate that the half ball seal rests on had a thin bead of plumbers putty under it.. tried to duplicate that..no joy
Next I suppose will be pulling the base apart to change out that "O" ring ..
Issue is I cannot figure out how to get it separated as all the diagrams show a vertical plumbing below the base and ours has a horizontal plumbing...
And the black plastic "funnel" on the inside.. does it lift out or what?
Cannot find anything that gives a "blow by blow" procedure to address the R & R of the bottom "O" ring.
Our base looks like it does not have a separation point .. unless the whole base lifts up and the bottom separation is hidden underneath the base housing..
And our toilet does not have or use the 3 "L" bolts like all the diagrams show..
(One of the first 3048's built as the serial # is 000270.)
(our set up is the toilet is on the drivers side of the coach and the vacuum pump and the inlet for the black tank is on the passenger side of the coach)
thank you for any suggestions that the members can suggest.
Wouldnt it be easier to just get a real toilet? Not sure what mine had original but looked electric.. Manual now and works good.
It WOULD be easier ... but if you do not have a direct drop into your black tank, you need the vacuflush to suck everything sideways. After spending more time in an "up close" embrace with our Turbo Turd Vacuflush Sealand Magnum Opus commode, I found a commode with a manual foot pedal to work the half ball valve and none of the electronic sensors and alerts that required a solid state board to operate. I then had only the vacuum system to maintain, and I rested a great deal easier. IMHO, a toilet should not need a "brain" to operate. I avoided a fancy schmancy macerator toilet for the same reason ... a toilet should not need a brain AND teeth!
That actually made me Laugh !! Good job!!
Never seen or used his type of toilet.. little fancy me thinks
After noting that under the toilet seat it has a water tight seal all the way around (to prevent any slop spillage when traveling)
And also noted that the vacuum flush creates quite the "whoosh" when flushing....
And that the half ball really snaps shut (reminded me of a snapping turtle)
Being a male of the species, got this mental image of things hanging down and combined with the vacuum and the snapping turtle half ball when flushing....NO NO NO... Will be standing when I push that flush handle
What about the one with the teeth!!
Well.......
The plot thickens...
Got to really looking as to how the base separates (still cannot find a seam)
BUT!!!
The plastic pipe that goes from the toilet to the vacuum pump has a short piece of white plastic pipe (pvc?) with two heater hose clamps as a coupling device.. could this be my vacuum leak???
It looks like pvc, but that would be too stiff to clamp. Does the connector pipe fell soft to the touch, maybe a special rubber or something.
Might need to shave it before you get to close.. it could jump :)) ^.^d
Nope, looks like just schedule 40 PVC, but why the hose clamps?... PVC doesn't collapse to fit...... have no idea if there was glue used ,
Redneck engineered??? one clamp I got a half turn in and the other was tight.
Just confuzed
Yes I think it's likely the leak culprit. Take it out and see if it is glued in place. The clamps can't be doing anything.
Well... on closer investigation.. looks to be the same flexible connector tubing for vacuum sewer pipe... it does "mash out" a bit under the clamps..
Will go to the "Full Monte clamps (wider & stronger bolt "stay tights") and see if that is my leak, before I try to remove it.
Have to heal up a bit first.... big mofo screw driver got me hand..mebbe a stitch or three...We'll see.
Use a heat gun on it just before you tighten.
re: heat gun..
Yup.. I can do that...
but may be a day or three... really gouged my hand with that %^&&^% Screwdriver .... at least I got out of having to cook or do the dishes for a couple of days..)
Well..re-tightened that connector hose for the sewer line...No Joy...
So..Called Marine Sanitation & Supply... again..
After I reminded him that our serial number was 000270..His light bulb went on and he said that they had "updated that model " after ours was built..Ours is somewhat different than the newer styles.
He then searched his file cabinet and found the parts catalog dated 2003.......OH BOY!!!
So He is sending the pic's and diagram of our old style turbo turd and including the "O" rings needed for the "Funnel" seals..what ever that means..
Will know more in a day or two..