I got the haldex dryer pulled except I can't figure out how to get the electric plug to come loose. What's the secret before I screw something up. Also is there a model/part number on it anywhere for when I go to order it?
Keith,
If you peel back the split cover on the wire about 6" back you will find a couple of butt splices. You can cut the wire here and crimp on new butt splices here. If you want to leave the wire alone you can just remove the 3 little screws that hold the bottom piece on. With this removed the heating element will just come out of a recessed ring.
Are you wanting the model # for the dryer or the heating element? The dryer is a Haldex pure air plus and the part number is DA33100BX (this could end with just a X but the spare that I have on the shelf has the BX) this is the factory rebuild number, that will come with a new element. NAPA or any truck parts store should be able to get one. Look on the net and see if you can have one shipped to you. I would have to walk up to the shop and get the exact number for just the heating element. It will follow.
On edit: The part # for the 12 VDC heating element is DQ 6011 which will include a new cover and gasket.
Mike
As Mike said just cut the wires if you just want to seperate the dryer from coach. Colour coded (should be) so no problems later.
JohnH
Yes I'm going to replace the whole thing as the canister has powdered everything. I noticed a small amount of powder at the wet tank not long after I bought it. I think mot slid that one by me, I ask my salesman if I should get an independent inspector he said naw we'll get it all taken of. Hind sight is 20/20 and an uneducated 1st time buyer......
Moving on, what your telling me is a factory refurbished unit will have wires sticking out for me to attach my wires to??
The reason I was wanting to find a part number was just to make sure I was ordering the right part since it's gonna take a week to get it. Also I thought the isolation valve screwed into the side of the unit, I did not see one attached to it so I thought it might be a different model. Just trying to get everything right.... I have sourced one at my local Napa just wanted to have the old one pulled before I ordered...
Thanks for all y'alls feedback.
Keith
What about the isolation valve??.
Sometime they quit putting in the isolation valve on coaches. Some owners have taken them off by accident. That is they removed the air dryer along with the isolation valve and took it in to the parts store for a core. The new one don't come with the isolation valve as it was always a indipendant part. If you find a 1/4" air hose that has been caped off this was for the isolation valve. If yours don't have one the air compressor and dryer will work just fine without the isolation valve.
One other thought is if you don't have an isolation valve the stainless steel braided hose from your compressor will just go strait into a flair fitting on the side of the dryer base.
Pamela & Mike
I'll look for the capped air hose, I don't recall seeing one.. it's hanging on by the wires only now an the storage place. I'll order the new one tomorrow and may go by and clip the wires and bring the old one home depending on weather, the cold front that will probably visit you in the morning is supposed to be here just before I get off work......
Thanks for all the help mike
My 2000 295 does not have the isolation valve so maybe yours too does not need it.
JohnH
Based on my my earlier research on this subject, if your coach has the Holset air compressor (Cummins owns Holset), you should have an isolation valve. If yours came with the Wabco or Bendix, it won't need it. Somewhere around 2000, they stopped using the Holset air compressor. It may be different for the M11/ISM.
Don
Got the wires cut, old one home and new one ordered... thanks for all the info,help and encouragement...
Keith