Ours disappeared. Get a new one from FOT or ?
Looks like ours fell/tore off going down the road. One of the toad safety cables torn up, no evidence of other damage.
Thanks
"Mud flap material" (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29656).
FOT online ordering wish list (split from Realm vs. closest competitors -... (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22910.msg176495#msg176495)
....yep, order from FOT parts, not all that much $ but shipping is a booger....(oh well)....really nice though, stainless steel I guess....
Mine is looking pretty sad where it folds when leveling bends it.. I was gonna cut it off. any reason to replace it over get rid of it? I only tow a motorcycle on a rack.
If you don't have a Foretravel rock guard, nobody will know what brand of that is coach is lookin' so beautiful up ahead of them. 8)
I posted this a year or so ago , and this is a repeat . I picked up a very bent up Foretravel stainless steel flap from the FOT junk pile . Took it home and run it thru my roller press on each pass it got much better . After about a dozen passes it turned out to about 90 % of new . It would not show any hint of ever being bent once hung back on unless you got real close , maybe 5 feet or so . Reason for this post is ---bring it to my home address and we can together press it out back to useable use . It is a two person event , one to feed the other to make the rollers function . This is not free , no sir , it will cost you one root beer and it got to be cold . Once you get there you are expected to ride one of my toys to inspect my trails . If this price is too stiff , tuff do do . O:) Brad Metzger
Sign me up. Except my mud flap is ok, so we can do without the pressing part.
Replace two screws on the bottom edge of the FT metal part about a foot either side of center with stainless steel eyebolts. Use a nut on each side of the flap. Then you can loop a bungee cord from eye to eye over the hitch to hold the flap up so that leveling doesn't crunch it.
I still have the one I straightened out and was going to keep it as a spare , but ---if interested PM me Brad Metzger
I might be interested in it . My rear mudflap says Unihome, I like the look of the stainless Foretravel ones better. And being my coach is a 91 a shiny Foretravel logo on a new black rubber mat would probably dress the old rig up nicely, or make the rest of the coach look like crap! But being I am slightly dented also, that aspect does not bother me. What is the dimension of it.
X-2. Mine says "Uni" as well, would love to have a FT logo back there, except someone has been into my mudflap and it's in good shape!
I took an old stainless steel tabletop to a lady that did steel design with a plasma cutter. She made me two of them with the logo on each end and Foretravel in the middle. Worked out pretty good. Charged me 60 bucks.
When I checked the flap on my coach I found that it had worn the mounting holes oval. Not a bad idea to check yours and make new holes and renew the mounting hardware at the same time, a cheap fix.
Keith
Brad, if you have a roller press, your shop would be worth looking at. :thumbsup:
Have 150 amp plasma table at work, and 18 gauge stainless in stock but program is limited. Sent four 1 1/4" steel thick column base plates with eight 1" diameter holes in each base plate to a local shop with a more powerful plasma table cost was about $175 total delivered. Recently got paid to design and install piping and exhaust system for a 5'x10' laser table system that can burn thru 3.5" mild steel with an 1/8" smooth kerf. Uses 450 psi nitrogen to blow out the slag. Not sure about the environmental impact of releasing 6000 gallons of liquid nitrogen every 3 weeks. There are a least 3 of these systems in town. They run 24/7.
Nitrogen makes happy plants
So does co2
Talked to Brad at FOT parts. Foretravel steel is $220.50, rubber mat is $51. Estimates shipping to Austin $50 to $70.
Plus tax, minus 10% motorcade.
Looks like large rivets held the flap to the bar. Slight bend in the bar, doesn't look like a problem. Looks like drilling out the rivets, replacing with bolts and locknuts. Alternatives?
What is everyone using to hold the flap to the coach? Shackle? Screw chain link. Or what
Hey guys, when I got mine last year there were 2 different sizes of rubber mat, so best to measure exactly & check with parts dept....Paul Yasbeck put mine on so he ordered the flap, I took him the old one so I have no idea what the difference is, seem to recall there was about a 2 inch difference....
Drilled it out to accommodate a 5/8 clevis connector.
Like this quick link
Shop Blue Hawk Stainless Steel Quick Link at Lowes.com (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-Stainless-Steel-Quick-Link/999971144)
Our rear mud flap 'hinges' on oval carabiners. We drilled two more holes and it now hangs on 4 of these clips. The clips wear over time which could allow mud flap to fall with disastrous results. Everyone should have multiple redundant hangers.
Whenever we park with rear having to go down or front coming up to level, we go out and 'chain' up our mud flap around the hitch so the flap stick out. Dropping straight down on a vertical mud flap will squish it and stress hangers. We added two eye-bolts to mud flap to attach our chain.
that explains the global cooling they have been ranting about.. :))
that is what I have and when I drug the back coming out of the storage lot it bent and broke apart letting the mud flap drag on one side all the way home. I didn't know if there was an different option that might be stronger
We used these Clevis connectors. No problems in six years.
Lynn wins with a clevis connector. It will not deform and is probably needed for Arkansas hills.
Barry, you remember I'm a flat lander dirt farmer. If you have broken chains on the farm, you have clevis connectors.
hum never used these. since I have 2 oval carabineers holding mine up I assume I can link 2 of these together for the same distance or does a link of chain need to go between the 2?
He's gone to the horse races. I made the pics, myself. Appears to be a straight bolt on connection to the rubber flap.
Oh, I forgot. The rear side of the rubber material has a supporting metal strip behind it.
Marilyn
Those connectors are actually not that good for this use as they do not allow the flap to ride(swing) up as you pass over things, they only "swivel" in a longitude fashion (sideways)due to design. Regular single ones allow it to rise up above the ground.
Due to the narrow width of the pins between the cast sides it restricts the needed movement more than other ideas.
JohnH
I used stainless quick links.
(https://s17.postimg.org/iksjou0mz/IMG_8481.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/iksjou0mz/)
I think what was there originally was 1/4". I used 5/16".
I also used two eye bolts replacing a couple of the bottom screws. One on either side of the receiver at the bottom lets a bungee cord from the eye bolts over the receiver hold it up out of the way when it needs to be.
Are you saying there is another metal strip besides the Foretravel piece of metal?
Trent
Mine has a 1/4"x1-1/2" (as I recall) bar across the upper inside of the flap that the quick links loop through and a metal bracket on the top.
Trent, the metal flat bar is what the clevis or? holds to. The belting flap is fastened to this bar and a stainless plate with the logo also fastened to the belting.
JohnH
There is a metal strip - not very wide - behind the rubber - for extra support and to help strengthen the piece.
My strip is stainless.. that's just Foretravel !
Roger,
Are you describing a metal sandwich between your 1/4" bar and the "metal bracket" on the front and back of the rubber?
If not, what is the metal bracket of which you speak?
Thanks,
Trent
I'd go take a picture but it is hard at 65 mph.
There is a welded angle bracket on either side of the horizontal rear frame. This is part of the receiver assembly. The links hook on those. My flap as I recall, just has the metal bar on the inside of the flap, it is not full width but close. The holes in mine were almost worn through so I turned it upside down and drilled new holes for the links. I think the FT metal part on the outside of the flap just bolts to the flap.
I will look when we stop.
Roger
yes the foretravel SS plate is just fastened to the belting flap alone. As I mentioned earlier the flat bar has the holes in it to hang from clips or? and that alone is fastened to the top section of flap with screws or small bolts.
JohnH
Here is my flap, inside, outside, from one end and pulled up with a bungie cord.
(https://s14.postimg.org/6336lil2p/IMG_9322.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Top view from the hanger.
(https://s14.postimg.org/j78qy809t/IMG_9321.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Inside from the end, hanger, quick link, backer bar.
(https://s14.postimg.org/ey40w2rvl/IMG_9320.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Ourside view of the quick link.
(https://s14.postimg.org/99xq57aoh/IMG_9317.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Holding up the flap, this is very handy.