Looking to replace the exterior White rubber entry door molding to Black. Repeated failures of trying to restore the original White color due to stubborn black mold collecting. Will order part from FOT. From those who have done the job, any unpleasant surprises to be expected?
Howdy Fiddler,
We had ours replaced at MOT, took a couple of guys, they removed the door, which is pretty heavy. Might need an extra hand or two to manage weight of door.
Good Luck, Dave A
To my knowledge, white no longer available
yes mot did me nice job with a back one bevy happy
Acetone works well to clean the white seal. It will dissolve the seal if left on too long. A quick swipe will do it.
Not hard to do but as others have said it weights more than one person should try to man- handle . Had to get help to rehang the door..
Make sure you give FoT the exact dimensions and hope for the best. I tried to rely on build number and got the wrong one. Turns out they did not have mine, so I got one from the OEM directly. They can also supply the "air dam" - plastic piece that runs the length of the door to the front of the hinge. Mine was scalloped.
This is the person who helped me - she sent me their drawing to confirm dimensions before I ordered:
Noell Keiser
PTL Engineering, Inc.
3333 John Conley Dr.
Lapeer, MI 48446
Phone: (810)664-2310
Fax: (810)664-2360
Rich, Can you post the OEM contact information? I want to order these parts.
Ken
Fiddler,
Your white gasket may be physically damaged or otherwise unsalvageable, but if it isn't, have you tried acetone?
There is a post from 4 to 6 years ago that you may have already considered.
White door gasket (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16206.0)
I thought I would bring it up as I've seen several white gaskets returned to new appearance without much effort. And the white rests easier on some eyes than the black one does.
HTH,
Neal
If you decide to use acetone, be very careful not to let it drip onto the stripes. It will remove paint.
Our gasket is coming loose near the latch. I want to seal it down, but there are screws behind it. What should I use that would not be a pain to pry free should I (gasp!) have to get into that latch again?
It is affectionately known as "Gorilla Snot": 3M™ Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive | 3M United States (http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Yellow-Super-Weatherstrip-and-Gasket-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3292907682&rt=rud)
also known as 3M ECL1300
also used to adhere deicer boots on airplanes
Fiddler I got my new gasket from PTL Enterprises who made the door whole bunch less than FT. Their tag should be on the door.
I also ordered direct from PTL Engineering, Inc
Pretty straight forward repair. I replaced the White gasket with a Black one and also replaced the white air dam for a Black one.
After removing a million screws I had to decide if I could somehow unhook electric going to the door lock actuator. So I removed the window frame and the vinyl face, lock, handle, and other lock....and still couldn't get to the actuator. So I did what I should have done all along, cut the wire and rewire it after the task was complete. This would have saved about 30-45m of indecision and phone calls about what to do to Foretravel and PTL. I did have to remove the door frame on the right side to install the Air Dam behind the frame. After I removed the 10? screws in the frame the right side pulled out easily to allow for the removal of old dam and install of the new. I did not try to remove all of the old 3m double sided tape that was left (fingers crossed) since I figured the Frame would hold it in place if new tape failed. 2 person job, allow 3 hrs.