Hi all, we are still in the process of getting our 1990 GV front engine gas coach we purchased last month ready for travels. We had an interesting issue arise yesterday. We were going to take her out for a spin and stopped to gas up first. After filling with gas, the engine would not turn over. Tried the boost switch and still nothing. Got a jump and it fired right up. Drove it home, shut it off and after a few attempts got it restarted but it ran terribly rough, fast idle, just not as smooth as normal. shut it back down, could not get it to restart. Planned on taking the battery in today to have tested but decided to try and start it first. Fired right up, ran fine. Note- both chassis and house battery were replaced by PO in Nov '17, just 3 months ago. It has never had a problem starting since we bought it. Even though we are not using it yet, I fire it up every few days with no issue. Any ideas what could have caused this? Strange that it coincided with fueling. Something to do with EVAP system? Also, the coach battery does not seem to charge well, or at least hold a charge so I may have it tested as well. I'm attaching pictures of the battery box/ wiring. Perhaps someone more technically savvy than myself can tell me if anything looks amiss. As always, your feedback is welcomed and appreciated!
Start by checking ALL battery connections
I can't say this is your problem, but those terminals on the starting battery need to go. They probably aren't conducting too well.
Quality profession cables with permanent terminals will save you so much grief. Not the cheap stuff consumer grade stuff, the heavy duty ones from NAPA or similar.
Personally if they are otherwise in good shape, I would probably pull both cables and solder on lug terminals and heat shrink them, then install military or ordinance style terminals on the battery and bolt the cables to them. Since you are using conventional flooded batteries, some anti-corrosion spray would also be in order, and maybe anti-corrosion washers on the posts.
You might want to double check those are the correct batteries for that application. They seem awfully small for the battery box.
I don't like the wing nuts on the coach battery. They really should be switched to military or ordinance style terminals on the posts. The wing nuts will loosen and they provide very little contact area.
Check ground strap on Engine
Clean every battery connection, the connections at solenoid on the rear wall, the connections at the ground stud on the rear wall. Find a continuous duty solenoid to replace the one on the rear wall. NAPA will have one. Make SURE it is continuous duty.
After that I would look into replacing some of the battery cables, or at the least the end terminals.
If you dont have a volt meter buy one. What is the voltage at the batteries? At the solenoid?
Thanks for the suggestions. After I started it today and ran for a few minutes, then turned it off, voltage at engine battery was 12.7 and coach battery was 12.2. I did not check voltage at solenoid but will do that and will look at replacing cables etc.
Thanks
You'll probably have to look around for the wiring connections, but any bad connection will cause all the problems you describe,
Based on those photos alone, you'll need new cables. I'd recommend professionally assembled stuff with marine grade components. I get everything from Marine Wiring, Boat Cable and Electrical Genuinedealz.com (https://www.genuinedealz.com) and build them myself. Tinned wire, crimped and soldered connections covered with adhesive heat shrink to prevent any corrosion. Any battery shop, high end automotive or truck supply, marina, etc (even the link above) will make cables to your specs.
Look for a large strap or cable from large bolts on the engine to large bolts on the chassis frame. Where the engine mates to the transmission is a good place to look for this ground. Sometimes at motor mounts on the side of the block.