The job wasn't too bad just time consuming. Below you will be able to see the before and after.
We first started with labeling everything that needed to be labeled and took pictures and dumped all of the tanks.
1. I removed the compartment panels and disconnected any anything in the way.
2. Job started with clean up of the bay. Years of accumulated dirt. I removed all of the old rubber mat on the floor and cleaned up the old glue.
3. I removed and replaced the black and gray valves. The seals were worn and rolled over. The flange on the black tank had a rolled edge. Don't know how it got there. We cleaned it up and the seal was well seated, replaced the valves and cables and checked for leaks.
4. I removed the old antique out door faucet and replaced it with one that had a smaller profile and had a quick disconnect with a pig tail hose. We relocated the faucet to the left of the old faucet since it was not going to match up with the old location and checked for leaks.
5. I installed the Valterra flush kit on the black and gray tanks on the angled part of the tank so the nozzle spray would be parallel with the slope of the tank. On the black tank I shifted the nozzle over to the left so it wouldn't be directly under the toilet drain pipe. I didn't want paper to hang up on the nozzle. I installed the flush inlet connector at the spot where the old faucet was located. We checked out the flush operation and checked for any leaks.
6. I installed the Progressive EMS on the upper panel of the bay. Cut hole out and made a bracket with post that was riveted to the base of the EMS. I wanted the EMS base and wires hidden. I disconnected the main line from the junction box that comes off of my reel and installed a new junction box on the wall on the right side of the compartment. I ordered the 6 gauge 4 wire flexible power cord wire from Home Depot. I ordered 5 feet. After installing everything I felt I should of allowed more length to allow me more room to pull the panel out with the EMS. I secured the wires in each junction box using the Kearny Split Bolts and taped all of the connections with rubber tape, then electrical tape. I now mounted the EMS in the panel from the four post of the brackets I made. The EMS is just flush with wall panel. I can still remove the EMS face cover with ease. We checked all of our electrical connections and made sure EMS was functioning correctly.
7. Installed the Valterra third valve. I cut the 3" black pipe and used a rubber mechanical union to reconnect. This allows me the opportunity to replace the rubber backing on the floor and lower wall of the bay without the valve being in the way.
8. Finally we replaced the floor and wall mat. I used some black high quality toolbox drawer liner material and glued it in with the 3M 77 Spray Adhesive.
The job is pretty much done with the exception of a little caulking and I need to replace the water fill switch when the new one arrives. The compartment will be good for another 18 years. Ow off to the next project.
John M.
Nice work..!!! ^.^d
Nice job, very impressive workmanship
Outstanding! Very nicely done. b^.^d
That's a sweet job, John. Love the EMS mounting scheme. That's unique.
jor
looks great!
John
Great improvement to the wet bay. Workman ship is A+.
Jerrett
Nice job, John. Good work always takes time but it is worth it. When you do these projects yourself you know exactly how it was done, which is good.
Roger
That's the look I want for our bay. Like new and fully functional. Good Show, John
Major improvement in all respects! Excellent work!
In the "after" photos, what is the little louvered box plugged into the duplex electrical outlet?
Well done ^.^d
Chuck,
That's an LED Light I use when needed till I can replace the bay light fixture that works when it wants. We will be installing LED strips in all of the bays.
John M.
Looks good John, nice work
John...
I like the way you mounted the EMS.....We have ours near the transfer switch...kind of a PIA...to check....may just move it like yours
What cable did you order from Home D ??
Hans,
I used a wire from Home Depot that was recommended by Roger on the Forum. I had ordered 5 feet and should have ordered maybe 8 feet. This way you can have 2, 4 foot sections. I ended up 2 1/2 feet on each side of the EMS. It works but it's tight when removing the panel. Here is the link to the wire.
John M.
Southwire (By-the-Foot) 6/4 600-Volt CU Black Flexible Portable Power SOOW... (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-By-the-Foot-6-4-600-Volt-CU-Black-Flexible-Portable-Power-SOOW-Cord-55809199/204725137?MERCH=REC-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-204725137-_-N)
Nice work!
Just want to give you some advice here. The SO cord you used is not rated for the same ampacity as the Romex that was originally used. Despite both being 6AWG wire, the SO cord is only rated for a maximum of 40 amps and your overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) is rated at 50 amps. Basically, you are running the risk that the SO cord will fail before it ever trips the breaker.
Just a heads up.
As I read the charts 6ga cables, SO, SOOW, SJO all of these types have an ampacity rating of 45 amps when three wires carry current (three phase) at 86° F and 55 amps when two wires carry current (single phase) at 86°F. Less when temps are higher. This is the same cable that FT uses as a land line, maybe SOOW for oil and chemical resistance.
IMHO I think these cables are OK in this appliction.
I want to install a Progressive EMS inline system. My biggest concern, at the moment, is if I want it up stream or downstream of the transfer switch. I originally thought I would pull the reel in wet bay and install it behind that. My question is....why did John change the wiring ?? Was it simply because it was easier to handle than the original wiring? I realize that working with that gauge wire must be a PIA, but I think my installation basically requires me cutting the feed and then rewiring ( 8) ends within the EMS. At least that's what I saw on You Tube !! Am I missing something here ??
Home Depot page says 40 amps but the Southwire Viper spec sheet says 45 amps. You guys do what you want. I'm a licensed electrician and I wouldn't be able to get away with installing something that doesn't meet my code requirements and exceeds the manufacturers specs. ;)
http://www.southwire.com/ProductCatalog/XTEInterfaceServlet?contentKey=prodcatsheet282
Edit: Roger, the neutral is a current carrying conductor also.
If you run it straight off your cord reel, it only protects your electrical system when you are plugged into shore power. I think most of the people installing this place it after the the transfer switch so that it works on both generator and shore power.
Best idea behind the transfer switch. My factory install for EMS was for SP only. Used Romex 6/3 [55 amps] inside coach. Used the rubber coated stuff [45amp] from reel into transfer switch. Not the best way in IMHO. But if you need 45 or 50 amps per leg, you have a problem with power consumption in your coach.
12000 watts? Too many loads. I am a dry camp guy, 500 watts continuous , short term. 2000 watts for microwave etc. Running AC's stoves, etc, are shore power or gen. Over 8000 watts, worried about grid meltdown.
Why would I have to rewire from the reel to the transfer box with rubber coated stuff? I thought I just had to cut the line coming from the transfer box to the panel and install the EMS there.....I hate using the term " just ". I imagine that the existing wire is a challenge to work with. Where does the 6/3 romex come into play??
Romex is inside coach in mine, outside is rubber coated stuff. Goes from EMS inside to transfer switch. there all is Romex.
The main reason to use the SO or SOOW wire is that the individual wires are much more flexible than the romex cable wires. It just makes the job easier.
This is the same type cable that your land line is made from.
Robert, I respect your experience in this. Thanks for the input. Here is what I found
(https://s13.postimg.org/9moduxtnr/CE82_F0_BC-96_CB-44_AB-_A110-_D6_B84_B10_DB3_F.png) (https://postimages.org/)
Roger
Some of us have two transfer switches. Where should the cut be made for the EMS in that case?
Thanks,
Trent
I would think after the first one that switches between shore or generator power. That way everything downstream, [main breaker box, inverter, second transfer switch and sub panel components], are protected. Will be a tight fit though.
Was there not posts about the EMS making noises during use?
Another good reason for a pedestal mount if that's true! ^.^d
I've never heard any noise from my hardwired EMS. It's been running silently for more than 12 years.
The 60 cycle hum from the hardwired Progressive Industries EMS was bad enough that I had to move it from under the bed to the utility compartment. Apparently, some are noisier than others.
Don
Or the location under the bed is the noise I remember mentioned.
80's coaches charger hummed loudly in the tank valve compartment
I believe some the Progressive Industries units had problems. My Surge Guard unit is quiet.