I have the plunger type door/light switch on my closet doors. Both are still working except one has worn a slight depression in the door. Enough that the plunger does not compress to turn the light off when the door is closed.
I tried to use both the felt and rubber thingys that are on the cabinet doors. The felt worked for about two months then was crushed. The rubber ones were just pushed to the side the first time I tried them. Verified by placing my smart phone on video inside the closet and closing the door. (Tip)
The plunger is metal. Can I use a small 1/2 x 1/2 inch piece of sheet metal on the door over the depression. My concern is a short of some kind caused by the metal touching metal. I'm not very electrically savvy.
I'm looking into the magnetic reed switches but I'd like a quick fix for now.
Thanks
Ed
A metal piece should not present an electrical problem, but if it was me I'd get a small brown plastic button and glue it on the door.
Ed,
Here are good quality magnetic switches. You can find then cheaper but they usually come from overseas and can take a while to show up.
NC NO Door Window Contact Magnetic Reed Switch Alarm 3W 10-20mm - Switch... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0BTTBU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
These are wired so that they can be NO (Normally Open) or NC (Normally Closed). This refers to the state of the switch when the magnet and the wired part are close together. The switch actuates when the magnet is about 1" away.
If you want the lights to be off when the door is closed (magnets close together) and the lights to be on when the door is open (magnets far apart) then you want a Normally Open. The switch closes when the magnets are far apart. White and brown wires for NO. This is backwards from what alarm systens use.
The problem is that most listings are wrong or incomplete somthat it is hard to know what you are getting. Getting these switches makes it pretty foolproof. These are fairly low power, suitable for LEDs, not for the 10 watt halogen bulbs.
@reply #2 I looked these up and the reviews were not good i was thinking about buying since my switches are getting to the point that the light does not come on. how long have you been using them ?
I use thick felt furniture pads, which last at least a year. Next round, I will probably switch to the magnetic switches that Roger mentions. Ken
Thanks for all the responses
I got about two months from the felt ones I used. I've wanted to add the magnetic ones also and change the lamps to LED, like the corner ones I think Roger has used.
I only have two wires attached to my plunger type switch, the magnetic reed switch shows three wires. Do I need the third wire in a 12V system?
Thanks
Ed
One is for n/o the other for n/c you would use n/o
The main reason for getting a three wire switch is that you can use it either way. Or you can use it both ways. One way to turn on the light when the door is open and the other way to show that the door is closed.
I read one description that said you use a normally open switch if the window was normally open! That tells you nothing about the switch works or what you are going to get. The three wire NO/NC switch makes sure it will do what ever you want.
IDEA: Tack-In Drawer Glides, 10 pack - Cabinet And Furniture Drawer Slides -... (https://www.amazon.com/Tack-In-Drawer-Glides-10-pack/dp/B002L6O3I6/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002L6O3I6&pd_rd_r=59D47D43BX67BHZ48VGB&pd_rd_w=2X6oL&pd_rd_wg=YqmYS&psc=1&refRID=59D47D43BX67BHZ48VGB)
Maybe sticky tape, Maybe a drop of silicone, You get the idea, Something that will not wear. Maybe a penny and a drop of silicone, anything. You could put a screw in there that the plunger will hit and will never wear out. KISS.......... ^.^d
or even easier cut some small long pieces of arborite or plastic and glue them to area of strike. These will not wear out and are a smooth surface fir switch to run on.
JohnH
Every overhead door and every closet door in my coach has these switches and inside cabinet LED lights. They have been in there for about 5 years. Not a single failure. Like many items there cn be a wider range of quality between vendors. This particular switch I mentioned is the one I have been using since 2013.
Magnetic switches may work less well in some of the basement spaces because of the steel framework. The two parts need to come close together. And pay attention to the power rating on these as well.. they are good for 3 watts. Great for LED lighting, not enought for the OEM halogen lights. There are mag switches rated for higher power. These will have screw terminals that allow for bigger gauge wire.
These are 10 watt capable switches. They can be wired NO or NC.
Amazon.com : 2Sets Magnetic Reed Switch Normally Open Closed NC NO Door... (https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Switch-Normally-Closed-Security/dp/B0735BP1K4/ref=pd_sbs_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0735BP1K4&pd_rd_r=PPVTHDWWPR99F61FKJ86&pd_rd_w=B3mmM&pd_rd_wg=O4OJX&psc=1&refRID=PPVTHDWWPR99F61FKJ86)
The magnetic switches referred to above are also available at All Electronics at reasonable price. I just bought 4 of them.
John Haygarth has the right idea. Our coach has the same switches as shown in the first post, but our closet doors also have a 1/2" square x 1/8" thick hard coco colored plastic glued to each door.
Worked good so far, but our coach is only 29 years old, so they might fail sometime in the future. Simple is good.
If the switch still works with no issues other than needing an actuator plate, I don't see the need to replace it. It will probably still work for years. Adding a small simple plastic or metal plate with glue won't take a minute to install.
Just my opinion and it's worth what you paid for it....... ;D
The OEM FT plunger switches do wear out over time. They are often in very tight locations where attaching the wire to the exposed screw terminals is very hard.
...and the winner is
One of the reasons I asked about using a small piece of sheet metal is I knew I needed something thin. I tried a rubber-ish furniture glide but it was too thick. The contact point between the glide and plunger switch was on the "side". The switch pushed the glide sideways instead of compressing.
The closest big box store is 10 miles away. It is a Walmart and the hardware section sucks. I grabbed the thinest furniture glides they had. They are the tack in kind with the nail like Stump suggested. The package stated 7/8" but that includes the nail. The actually glide part was 3/16", still too thick. I grabbed my Dremel tool, ground it down to less than 1/8", clipped the tack nail in half. Two hits with a hammer and put this thread to bed.
As I'm the OP it's amusing to see this morph into about magnetic switches, but I am probably to blame as I included them in my original post.
Thanks to every one
Ed
What is the black fuzzy thing next to your modified actuator?
Never seen a "bug" like that before.........