What is the construction of the dash panels?
Is it some paint over aluminum?
In the video when I rub my finger over the burnt area you can see a small white spark I tried to scrape the gold color away with my fingernail but it still seems to be shorting to something? :o
http://photos.smugmug.com/Foretravel/Forums-post/i-rGVGMMF/0/a0989703/1280/20180216_125517-1280.mp4
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Foretravel/Forums-post/i-m3JJpgL/0/5ea56ee3/L/20180216_125554-L.jpg)
Time for Silverleaf to be installed
$5k? I actually like the analog red needle dash and it's gauges location just below your sight line myself.
I looked at flyte10's silverleaf dash. Really nice. Almost crashed 30 years ago in a new 40' bird looking down and playing with the dash stuff.
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fweliveinanrv.com%2Fimages%2Fforums%2Fdash1.jpg&hash=9b4c3995f97049c2943d1e2c1efb4ff5" rel="cached" data-hash="9b4c3995f97049c2943d1e2c1efb4ff5" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://weliveinanrv.com/images/forums/dash1.jpg)
I'm not sure of the material of the dash, but the "gold color" is supposed to illuminate.
Thanks David but I dont think Silverleaf will do my old coach much good as I dont have a lot of computer stuff on it, its still old school :)
Thanks Siren, yes the gold still lights up on, well except for that one spot.
I just want to keep if from sparking, but it is sort of cool looking at night when it sparks :))
I think it is not a short, but a bad connection. Try this paint I have used it to repair circuit boards.
Electric Paint 10ml - Bare Conductive (https://www.bareconductive.com/shop/electric-paint-10ml/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8_yw4_Wr2QIVHrnACh0XXwhtEAQYAyABEgL9G_D_BwE)
Thanks craneman I will give it a try. I just ordered it from a place in Colorado.
Wow! Love it lit up! My doesn't do that anymore! Would love to get that restored/functioning again!
Alas, the 96' Unicoach dashes don't have the electroluminescent feature, even though they look the same at first glance. On the other hand, you don't have to worry about destroying its functionality by making a custom cut out for a gauge or monitor. I suppose there may be a few late 96' builds that had already transitioned to the EL dash as I believe that the 97's are so equipped.
Don
Don, is the dash in a 2000 U320 supposed to be luminescent?
It is standard in a '99 U320 so 2000 should be also.
Another thing for me to learn about and diagnose as to why my dash does not light. This is becoming a full time job.
Ken the dash should be fitted as my 2000 is
JohnH
I have the E.L. (Electro Luminescent) dash and when I turn it up/on to where it turns on/blue I have 2 sections that glow blue. The dash around the gauges and then to my left where the retarder and all the buttons/rocker switches are located. The dash doesn't seem to have any issues. But surrounding the rocker switches part of the EL is not glowing blue. About a 3 inch section is dark and actually has some sparking/flickering of white light (and a little buzzing/sizzling) happening when I turn up the knob to illuminate the rest of the dash
Is the buzzing normal?
Is this thing toast or is there a way to fix it?
Super8mm. Did you have any luck with the Electric Paint 10ml - Bare Conductive (https://www.bareconductive.com/shop/electric-paint-10ml/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8_yw4_Wr2QIVHrnACh0XXwhtEAQYAyABEgL9G_D_BwE) for a fix that Craneman recommend, and how did you fix it?
My side panel does not light up. Should it?
Should be aluminum under the coating
When we bought our coach 1 of the EL panels didn't work. By the time we were half way home another one failed. I really like the classy look of the EL, so plan to take a crack at fixing them. There's some good info in this thread: Log in (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=6721.msg28761#msg28761) especially posts 5 and 8, by James Stallings.
Hey you lucky folks with el panels, how about shooting a picture of one lit up at night? I'm curious.
Mine looks really good lit up. First time I saw it I was like, oh cool!!
Was a unexpected surprise.
Here is a picture of mine taken while I was playing with the different color options of my Autometer fuel pressure gauge. As you can see, there are a few areas where the luminescent outlines are blotchy. It would be nice to be able to cure that, so I will be following to see if anyone has success with a fix. Aside from the outlines around the perimeter, the various HVAC controls light up. The side panel where the retarder controls etc. are located do not light up on our 99' U270. I think that similar model year U320's and U295's with the angled side console may light up, but I haven't actually seen that.
Don
This is an important link. Repair is a lot more complicated than just reestablishing continuity over the broken/burned area, as the strip has to be electrically isolated from the aluminum dash facia.
Thanks for the photo. My 97 side panel does not light up. Anyone's 97 side panel light up like the 99 shown?
On my 97, only the dash lights up, not the side panel.
Thanks for the pictures Don and Craneman! Those el dashes are really quite snazzy.
I still have a left and center panel fora 2000 U320. I had to buy all three to replace the right side
Thanks guys. My guru buddy had mounted a panel in the middle of my left panel and mounted my retarder handle in it and I wondered if he had shorted something. But I never had seen it light up before that either, did not know what was normal.
I'd like mine to light up like the 99's. Anyone have an extra light up side panel?
Each to their own, Having been a night driver in a class 8 for 10 years. I they look distracting in those photos. (mine do not work) or it might not even have them as mine is a 1998. Cool when you are stationary. I prefer a BMW car dash for night vision, Which is a low intensity red. Like most aircraft. Aircraft use red for a reason.
Yes sat in a live f-18 cockpit long ago. Red dim lighting and red top centered needles on every gauge at normal conditions.
Quick eye scan determines if every thing is ok.
That's why I really appreciate the dash layout on our 97. All the gauges can be read with averted vision
My 99 side panel does not light up as well.
Have you turned the fader knob next to the joy stick?
Craneman you have a separate brightness knob for your side console?
I have a brightness control on the dash that controls the light for the dash gauges. And I have a brightness control on the side panel next to the retarder joystick that controls the brightness of the EL luminescent dash.
I dont have one Craneman.
Mark
Neither do i
Must just be on the 320's '99 and later
EL luminescent dash and side counsel dimmer
My 97 has the mirror controls at the top. My relocated retarder handle is where your brightness knob is.
I wonder if the 97 is capable of being lit? Just did not have an inverted power supply wired to it? Maybe too dark? Another mystery.
I have a spare dash setup with the power supplies on them. I think. My guru buddy semi retired. Half to bug him to look.

Someone had posted this earlier
Looks like an earlier version without the left/retarder panel illumination
Might be inverted power?
Tommy,
Thanks for posting that inverter diagram. Didn't have it.
jor
Not off the inverter in the coach. Something in the dash might be changing 12 volt to 110? There are round things attached to the back of the electro dash panels
Read the link in reply #44 12 volt input 100 volt vac 600 hz. output.
Thanks. Had not opened the link. Seems I was somewhat correct
The early 98 diagram shows a circuit to the side panel.
Have talked with several of you guys about the EL dash problem and got good information but since I am a little slow on the uptake and still didn't understand how to fix the problem I called James at Xtreme, This is what I understood after talking with him and he is one of the people who used to build the EL dash at Foretravel.
So the dash is like a sandwich you have the following layers
1 Aluminum Plate
2 insulation film
3 EL Wiring
4 top insulation film (in my case its black)
He explained the problem as the bottom insulation has been disturbed(gone bad) and is allowing the EL wiring to contact the Aluminum and thus causing the spark/arc and will eventually short out the panel. He said the #2,3,4 are made together like a heavy duty film and are one piece and have been glued to the Aluminum.
THE FIX:
-If its in the dash you will have to remove the panel that is bad or having problems.
-In my case its to the left of the dash (where my Retarder joystick is) so I'm lucky and only have to remove 6 screws and lift the plate
up to get at my problem area. I think I will be able to leave everything connected to attempt the fix.
-once you have access to the panel edge you should be able to use an exacto knife or blade to separate the heavy duty film from the aluminum. Make sure you are seeing aluminum when you separate. He recommended separating around the entire edge and doing the whole panel but I am going to just work on the area of my problem 1st. He said the film is pretty heavy duty and should not be a problem to separate from the aluminum. After removal use Liquid Electric Tape (My local hardware store had some or Lowes, Autozone) to coat the area to re insulate it and let it dry.
My understanding is that the purpose is to re insulate the area under the membrane so it will stop arcing.
From the side view I could see faintly where the aluminum stopped and the membrane started.
My understanding as well.
Dangnabbit! ... I thought that knob had something to do with the retarder, but couldn't figure out what. Now I know. O:) Thanks, Chuck.
Liquid electrical tape. Didn't know there was such a thing.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Black-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-4-oz-LTB-400/100119178
I have been wondering what that resister switch was beside the retarder joy switch. Now I will try and find out why it doesn't work.