This may be an old topic but what I read left me still with questions. One question is , where do I start?
The situation is; full-timer, on shore power (50 amps) for several months, I ran the engine the other day (initially would not start, even with using the Boost switch. But, with a day on the battery charger, all was good), I have two Magnetek Charge Controllers (why two, I do not know, but this is the way it was when we bought this beast two years ago). New chassis batteries last May and new house batteries last September. (When I could not start the engine a couple of days ago, I tried the Boost switch but heard no difference in cranking speed).
My understanding is that the 'Inverter' converts 12VDC to 120 when needed when not connected to shore power, and the charge converters change 120AC to 12VDC - 14VDC to charge the 'house' batteries.
The plugs that provide 120VAC are working fine. The things like lights (low voltage 12VDC) do not work. All low voltage fuses are fine. Both charge 'converters' have their usual warmth (signifying that they are working). One had stuff shoved on top to MAY have become too hot, but that is now rectified.
My step now is to check the charge in the house battery bank, as I may have a converter problem or an isolator problem, but I need to start somewhere in this problem-solving.
Ideas?
Have you checked the "salesman switch" (at your door)to see if it has been kicked or bumped to off? That may be a start to get your 12vdc lights back up. Next check the 12vdc reset breaker, some are hid on the top of the left hand wall in your service bay. I have a pic. of what you are looking for somewhere that I will hunt you if you can't find yours.
Pamela & Mike
Yes, your understanding is correct - at least that is what is supposed to happen. First thing to note: the charge controllers will only keep the "house" batteries charged. The "start" batteries will
not be charged unless someone has
added a means of maintaining them while plugged in. The usual (simplest) solution is to use a small stand-alone AC powered battery charger/maintainer connected to the start batteries. Or, you can use a thief type maintainer that steals a little power from the "house" batteries to maintain the "start" batteries. Search for "Trik-L-Start" on this Forum for lots of info on this and similar devices.
When your "start" batteries are extremely low, they may not supply enough voltage to activate the BOOST solenoid. In this case, the engine may not start even if the "house" batteries are fully charged and you have the boost switch on.
It sounds to me like your "house" batteries are
not being properly charged while you are on shore power,
and the converters are also not providing 12volt power to operate the 12volt devices in the coach.
You could check the voltage at the "house" battery bank with the shore power unplugged, and then check again with the shore power connected. IF the converter chargers are functioning the voltage at the batteries should increase when shore power is connected.
If you find the "house" batteries are
not being charged, then the converter chargers are suspect. Trouble shoot as required.
If you find the "house" batteries
are being correctly charged, then you just need to add some way of maintaining the "start" batteries.
The battery isolator does not enter into this discussion.
One other idea: check the GFCI outlet in the bathroom - see if the button is popped out. If so, push it in and then try your interior lights.
The newer technology is to use a "combiner"
If you manually connect both your battery banks they run down at the same time.
The "combiner" auto connects if either battery bank is charging if so set on its small control panel(versus full connect and full disconnect) and auto disconnects if the charging device quits charging.
Fixes the issue.
My small Solar panel (14 Watts) set puts enough power into the house side when the sun is shining to trigger the auto connect feature.
In Reply #1, Mike mentions a "12vdc reset breaker". I think he is referring to the 90 amp breaker on the main 12V panel located under a white fiberglass cover in your middle bay (driver side). See photo below of that panel with the cover removed. At the top of the panel, there are 3 big round black 90 amp breakers. The middle one is a "manual reset" breaker - the other two are "auto reset". To reset the middle breaker, look in your utility bay for a hole drilled in the left wall near the top of the bay. Shine a light in the hole, and you should see a reset button. Push to reset. (If it isn't popped out, pushing on it won't hurt anything). See if that restores your 12V power in the coach.
Yes that is what I was refering to. Thanks for a better explination. Here is what you are looking for on the other side.
Mike
Good ideas all, and the search begins! Chuck - I checked the GFI reset button first thing, so that is not the issue. This morning I will check 'house' battery voltage and will push the manual reset button on the relay panel. (Learning something new every day!) . I will report on progress.
This issue reminds me of an old saying - "Oh, good! Another learning experience".
Thanks Team!
Problem solved the easiest way! The 'salesman's switch' had been accidentally moved to the 'off' position when a bag had been pulled out from near there yesterday. DW is very happy! Thanks Pamela & Mike, in particular.
The batteries are fully charged, so the converters are working as they should. Under the fiberglass panel I found two breakers but nothing that seemed to be a reset button. (The center did not move when pushed.
This episode has prompted me to learn more about the mysteries hidden behind the panel and I will work on that when things get a bit warmer here. (Projected minus 10C or 22F tonight).
To prevent accidental turning off salesman switch, which happens often, we have a short length of flat aluminum with a bend to prevent turning switch. Metal is pivoted out of the way to turn switch off. Easy fix for a big problem.
If it still has the magnetic converter might consider changing out for the newer converter that has better control of how much charge the batteries are getting. You should not need to have 2 converters, as each one charges 75 amps. Those old converters caused many a battery to be ruined by overcharging them.
I'm surprised the chassis batteries are fully charged. Not charging them for several months is enough to ruin them through phantom DC loads. Maybe your salesman's switch saved them.
I
This coach has two chargers. One for each battery bank would make sense.