On a EXE-100-02s AquaHot is there a relay on the power source wiring to the unit?
Thinking that if there is, mebbe it is failing (overheating and shutting off then resetting) but system doesn't see it???
I am at the end of my rope on this (and the leveling system)
Just spent over 9 Coach Bucks @ Oregon Motor Coach and not one damn bit happy..... OR... satisfied with their work....Act like everything should be laid out and work like a Country Coach....... Should have waited and drove the 2000 miles back to Nac...
Mine, [03] has a breaker in the electronics bay behind the panel. Do not think it is self resetting, but if it is tripping due to overload, should be hot to touch after tripping. Best thing is to put amprobe on wire to it and watch current draw.
Should only increase when boiler lights off and pumps come on for different zones. Rudy is the man, and can probably walk you through troubleshooting.
Hmm.... Will take a look... only panels I have are on the right side of dash and the panel in the 12v compressor bay that I know of..Will check tomorrow if it stops snowing long enough..
The big red wire in the center of the row of fuses is the main incoming power for the heater. It is protected at the other end by a coach builder installed device. Builder chooses the device and its location. So I do not know where that device is located but it is there.
A clamp-on amp meter would tell the amp draw when the burner and pumps are operating. If less than 25 amps, weak failling device.
I blew one on a SOB last year and had to pay a RV repair person $200 to come out and find it for me. This one was an inline fuse holder (30 amp) connected to a rear battery in the house bank and laid off the back side of the battery so I could not see it.
What is the symptom that makes you think of a resetting breaker? If the light comes on and then goes out and when you turn it on the light comes back on again it is a different problem.
Yes, breaker is in 12v compressor bay, otherwise known as electronics bay.
Thanks all, waiting for another set of thermostats to git here, then will wait until the rocker switch at the sink to go out... and wait some more until the house is cold and needing heat... then I will check the existing thermostats for continuity...... (leaving the rocker switch as is...to see if there is power to each thermostat... if not.... then the problem should be "upstream" of the thermostats me thinks..
If the light goes out and you can turn it back on, you have a fault in the AH. It can be the flame sensor or a few other items, but usually the control box. I don't think the thermostats have anything to do with it as the AH stays on when the thermostats are all turned off.
Agree, in my coach, thermostat controls heat exchanger blowers and zone water pumps. They will cycle on temps even if electric or diesel boiler is off.
I'm talking about the thermostats in the AH itself, not the wall thermostats..
In the last few hours things have went downhill.. getting a fault when AH tries to fire off and have to hit the kitchen rocker switch several times before it will fire...either have a power prob, coil prob, an inverter/charger prob. or the silver box is giving up... but will put the original coil back on to start with...Will get down into the teens tonight so gotta do something now... or "baby sit" the durn thing all night.
Think you can rule out inverter/charger, aqua-hot is all 12 volt. Hope it isn't the silver box, mine had almost the same problem and it was the silver box. They are very expensive. After that, have carried a Mr. Buddy heater in the bay. You should call Rudy in the morning. If diesel does not restart, you can always lite off gen and run electric side, won't keep you real warm, but will prevent freezing up. Good luck.
Have you checked the plugs that go into the silver control box as well as connections at the internal thermostats. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose wire at the thermostat.
Jason
Went down to Sears and got a multi-meter , checked voltage @ the buss bar relay in the electronics bay, pretty much a steady 13.2 v both when at rest and when burner running. (After a long search in the tool box finally found my old old old cranking amps/charging amps gauge, will check the amps when the unit is running at the buss bar.. gauge is so old that it is mechanical and made in the USA, just lay it on the wire to read the amps
also pulled the rocker switch assembly out from the counter @ the sink, didn't see anything amiss but went ahead and pulled the wires off the terminals and pulled and pushed back on a few times, was a little bit of gunk on them, will check the wires on the silver control box next cycle.
Update...7am.... baby sat the coach all night (got down to 15 here for a short while) burner cycling regular, then wham... faulted 4 or 5 times in a row(flipped switch and immediately failed) and rocker switch pilot light (as I moved the switch slowly to off would momentarily light up before getting to the solid off position )
pulled the rocker switch out and swapped it with the .Engine heat rocker switch.... because the rocker just feels "wonky".
Last 4 hrs so far no faults...."yet" .....
(BTW..Folded out the couch so I could keep an eye on the rocker switch light........ ain't too bad to sleep on ....surprised me
You might give River City RV repair a call. They are a mobile service for Aqua Hot up in your neck of the woods. He might be able to walk you through the issue and advise. Just a thought. Had other folks use him for Aqua Hot and said he was very reliable. Plus he is factory authorized.
Mobile RV Repair (http://mymobilervrepair.com/)
Hey Saddlesor
Try RV Hydronic Heater Parts (http://www.parts.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com)
They have refurbished or rebuilt control boxes
It sounds like you're control box is going south
Our Aqua Hot fan was running but not much for heat.
The control box is located on the side of the motor behind the inspection panel
Hope this helps
Yup Have bought a few thing from Roger in the last several months...good guy
I had one that was acting somewhat like yours and found one of the terminals that go to the thermostat on the boiler was bad. replaced the terminal and now all good.