The PO told me his brass name plate was glued to a previous plate that was screwed into the veneer. When I went to remove his plate, found NO PLATE underneath and the damage was done! Looking for any insight on how to patch it. A overlay seems to be the answer, but no clue of what material to make a patch would be. They make veneer in rolls, but seems like a waste of $ for such a small patch. I noticed this next to the stove that, cut down, might do the trick, but no idea where to get such a piece. Any clues and any idea what type of wood the original is?
Kind of a pickle you got there. On my coach it appears to be walnut veneer in that area. However, I would have two thoughts on this problem. First I would see how hard to remove handrail and if not all that hard would remove switches and handrail and replace entire panel and replace switches and handrails when done. Home Depot sells very thin stainable wall panels in 4X8 sheets. Maybe around 1/4 inch. Not sure of the wood but looks like oak or some such type of wood. You can stain to match and it would not be all that noticeable where it is located. That would be a what I would call somewhat of a involved project. Keeping in mind the original wood supplier is no longer around. However my other thought would be to custom cut a small piece of brown plastic (or stainable would panel mentioned above stained to match) and glue or screw down over the problem as a future "scuff guard" for the hand rails. Not the most ideal situation but doable and a low cost alternative. Short of replacing the whole panel it is going to be somewhat noticeable no matter what you do.
As a retired woodbutcher, I did consider removing the whole shebang, but upon inspection and thoughts, decided to do the best patch I could do. Besides, it gives me a good campground story! ^.^d
Mike is that Formica on the wall surrounding your stove?
You might consider using Formica or Wilsonart laminate as an overlay. A 4 X 8 sheet is around $80.00 and should be
a lifetime supply for you. Formica has a webpage of sample colors, woodgrains and finishes, or you can get a color brochure of the same at Home Depot, and then it's just a matter of ordering some 6" samples of product.
Used as an overlay you can use a magic marker to hide the raw edge of the Formica.
Good luck with it.
I think that IS Formica or Wilsonart next to the stove, looks perfect for my "cover-up'. I think Brett put that in, when he replaced the fridge or the stove, before he sold the coach to my PO.
Mike...the Formica by the stove I believe came that way from the factory. I have the exact seem piece in my rig as well. Covered it over with tile back splash. Turned out pretty good but most importantly the wife is smiling.
We had a piece of that walnut-look sheeting and used it to cover some patching. Use the Wilsonart, I have stock and will enjoy the increase in stock price!
I would trim the area out to a simpler shape then do what this video does.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhrOgj0e4Vw
Keith
^^^^^ very cool video that I hope I never need.
X2......I found another spot where someone had used glue/epoxy to affix stuff to veneers rather than screws! >:D
I am sure they are not cheap, but they do make door skins for making your doors look like real hard wood. A roll of that would cover a very large number of booboos.
Trent
Thanks, Trent, I'll some some "google searching". We stay in Payson, AZ for the summer months and there is a Home Depot there. As said earlier, I did look hard about removing the switches and handle and re-doing the whole side, but they built that entry wall hell-for-stout, don't even see how to get inside to take the handle off! :'(
Peel and stick real wood veneers are available in many sizes. Here is one example;
Peel & Stick Veneer - Wood Veneer Sheets Perfect for Crafters & DIYers (http://wisewoodveneer.com/product/peel-stick-veneer-small-wood-veneer-sheets/)
Don
Thanks, Don. Once I find out what kind of wood the original is, I'll take a look. Figured to make a template out of cardboard/thick paper because with the adhesive backing and tight quarters, I've got one shot to mount the veneer! ^.^d
Sometimes I have a crazy idea, but have you thought about using a fabric with texture that would blend with the wood. That might be easier to apply
Mike
If I remember correctly, you can remove the thin plywood on the BACK side of that wall - giving access to the inside and to the bolts that hold the handle to the metal frame. Hope this helps.
Mike
Mike is right I took mine off when I did my floors , just take your time and it will pull off. Good luck ^.^d
Thanks, Mike and Andy. I looked for a entry on the back, but rather than SCREWS, the sheet appears to be a press fit, locking into the trim, which, trying to remove, has "now you've done it" written all over it. Will stare more, it's "beer o'clock" here. b^.^d
Not a woodworker, but if you can't match the wood very closely, I would do that wall in thin tan Formica.