Was crawling around under the coach and seen where the exhaust side of muffler where it attaches to tail pipe was burned out.
also on the intake side of muffler it had been bent and was leaking.
Can anyone suggest muffler replacement or repair. I would be concerned with welding on a 19 year old muffler probably make it worse than it is already
Thanks
Chris
Replacing the Muffler with a Resonator (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_the_muffler_with_a_resonator.html)
Resonator and muffler replacement (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15111.0)
Get rid of it and put in a simple walker resonator. I have done it like a few others and very happy and makes the engine compartment a lot cooler.
John H
Put the resonator on and you will get more turbo pressure with quicker spoolup and I used 270 gallons less then I used the previous ten trips cross country. Wrote it all down every gallon and took the same route to visit the grandkids.
John how is the sound? I like the Idea of better mileage and more power but DW won't like it if it is much louder!!!
Also, what resonates did you use, and any guidance on parts would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
The links in Reply #1 (above) will provide a detailed "guidance on parts"...also lots of pretty pictures.
I used the walker one as mentioned in earlier posting. The late Dave M also used that one. It has given the sound a touch more "growl" but definitly not loud, it just sounds (healthier). Taking out the OEM muffler makes a BIG difference on heat in that area and the bed is way cooler after a trip ????
Hangers and a few elbows along with some stainless flex pipe are all that is needed. Very simple to do and did it myself , and I took that end panel off so I could sit on a stool to do it all instead of lying on my back. Definitly a sensible thing to do. Panel is simple to remove.
JohnH
I had put the Aero AT5050XL on out previous 94 U225 FT with Cummins 5.9 230 hp engine, and loved it.
I am now thinking to install it on to our 03/295 FT with Cummins ISL 400 hp engine. Should not run in to any issues corect? I see that few others installed on such as 03/320 with ISM 450.
It is pretty straight forward on the ism. Lot easier to get at batteries on mine.
Did mine myself also. Looks just like Jim Cs. I also used the aero AT5050XL. Much cooler eng room.
15 minutes a angle grinder with razor wheel and you have a pile of junk
Chris
I'll post pictures if I can figure that out!!!
Chris
Pictures I hope
Picture
Does anyone have any experience with the Jones resonator? I was looking on line and it specs. out almost identical to the Aero even uses the same 5050 number!
Thanks
Chris
I have used one, except for the name on it, seems the same as the aero except about 25% cheaper. Pic in reply #8.
Chris,
You have the hardest part done by getting that hunk of junk down and on the ground. Going back everything is a lot lighter and cleaner.
Pamela & Mike
You may consider heat shield wrapping the muffler/resonator that close to a cooler .
So there is no welding done during Aero AT5050XL installation? plug & play / clamp & bolt on?
Right, might have to do some cutting of the pipe, but you can do that with a grinder or sawzall.
I would love to do this work myself (last time I had to pay). I just don't know what/how/where to order the additional parts such as clamps, flexible pipe, etc. Ordering the Aero AT5050XL is easy enough, perhaps where I order the Resonator would also have the other parts. Some one may have already listed that here already, I'll look.
Truck Exhaust Parts for Trucks from RyderFleetProducts (https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/exhaust-parts-for-trucks-c-8254)
I just took my out and laid on ground and eyeballed the new route I wanted to take and ordered the elbows, clamps, hangers etc. Then a 2 ft section of s.s. flex pipe I could cut and use as necessary, FYI, the flexpipe does not bend as much as you think it should. Try to keep a little angle on it [side to side] to keep away from ac condenser.
Having a side door that opens, sure makes it easier.
Stainless flex may require a cutoff disk as hacksaw blades don't do much to it.
Pierce
Good point, I had some s.s.flex left over from another job. Plain old galvanized will probably last 20 years, and be a lot easier to cut.
I'm gathering up parts, ordered the Jones At5050XL (Amazon) it looks almost identical to aero JCUS has used one with good results so I thought I would give it a try, it is 79 and change on amazon and I get free shipping. The local Truck Pro shop wanted about 142 for heavy duty band that was about half the size of Aero or Jones
I bought 10' of 5 inch SS and looks like I'll have to buy 10' of flex. I plan to make the tail piece ( Cut-bend-tig ) instead of buying the chrome piece I like the polished SS better anyway. I plan to tig it all together that I can, will see how it comes out
Propman looks like I may have some left over if you are in the area
Chris
Why is this topic on General - Forum Instruction ... ?
Just happened to me on my way to Nac, spent entire morning laying on my back in Auto Zone parking lot jury rigging a quick fix. Left a mess of soot on drivers side radiator vent and left side of engine compartment door. Contacted Beau Reece in Nac to do my repair (936) 221-2055. He was highly recommended by others.
Edit
I agree Barry, what's it doing here, mods will fix.
I also added the Aero 5050 resonator. Very happy with the low end torque, but can't comment on any improvement on mileage. Definitely feels more powerful and helps with heat dissipation - no longer having a hot mattress, but turbo blanket might have helped there. Photo shows the new setup looking from front to back, before I added insulating wrap. You might notice the hanger I made from readily available materials from Lowes (aside from U bolt). It attached to where the old muffler bracket hung.
OK, I can't stay out of this one. Just Finished up. Jt5050xl install. Extra points for the first gear-head to figure out the rear hanger. I had it laying outside the shop from a past maintenance project on the GV. By the way it was a Valentine present for the DW ;)
Sorry haven't ran it yet but I'm sure I'll love the sound.
Looks like a filter bracket
I believe Beau has a new mobile number. 936-238-6962
Glen
Good to know, but number I posted worked for me.
Hammer, well done and nice to see you took off the side panel for ease. Sooooo much easier.
JohnH
"Extra points for the first gear-head to figure out the rear hanger."
1st photo: This shows how I attached the "front hanger" and is an extension of the previous photo I posted above.
2nd: Vertical support behind (aft of) the resonator near the tip. It attaches to a U bolt seen in the next photo. As a point of reference, you can see the conical housing for the left rear spot light.
3rd: explained above. This lower portion was left over from the original hanger. If you no longer have the rubber portion, cutting a piece from a heater hose will work as well.
4th: Horizontal bracket keeps it from swinging side to side and helps align the exhaust tip.
Hope this helps.
Sven
Well I finally got resonator installed decided to go with band clamps instead of tig welding it. Wrapped it with fiberglass insulation called it good
Good job. Notice any changes in performance?
Sven, it is still in my shop have not had a chance to try it out
Chris
Next project is adding a davco 382 fuel filter in the same compartment since muffler is gone there is a lot of room, plus if I put it where the old filter was the davco would be down almost touching battery--didn't like that option
Chris,
You might consider where Don mounted his. Here is a link to where and how to. Primary Fuel Filter upgrade options for Cummins ISC (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=32096.msg290704#msg290704) Easy to get to and his installation is neat clean and you don't have to run fuel lines across the engine/trans and back.
Pamela & Mike
Chris, you might want to replace those black tywraps. I don't think they will last very long with the heat from the exhaust.
Just a thought!
I was amazed on how effective that fiberglass muffler wrap is. I wrapped a wire/hose bundle just touching the exhaust pipe. Wire bundle barely gets warm now. great stuff.
Jim I sprayed the black high temp silicone on the wrap after it was tied up, those wraps are stainless steel but I do appreciate the observation
Chris
Mike I like the way he did it but on our coach there is hoses and wiring attached to that Realestate and it looked to be a major undertaking to re-route it out of the way
As always appreciate the input
Chris
is that your intake hose to the left of the exhaust?
Yes that is intake hose there is about 6" of clearance between them, the old muffler was about the same distance with no insulation
Chris
I used stainless steel zip ties like these: Stainless Steel Cable Ties - 100 lb (https://www.delcity.net/store/Stainless-Steel-Cable-Ties/p_824305.h_796634.r_IF3003?mkwid=ROydH8Oa&crid=11472933143&msclkid=c9a956a3712c16046ad80c1c896bdb5f&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20-%20PLA's)(BSC)&utm_term=4577198188221805&utm_content=Ad%20group%20%231
My friend and I installed a Jones 5050 yesterday and today. This was a much longer project then I thought it would be. It took almost three hours to get the old muffler out because the bolts were all rusted and had to be cut. Installation was smooth excepting for figuring out the last bracket on the tail pipe side of the resonator, which took tooooo many trips to the hardware store. Wrapped with heat tape. Lesson learned to scope out my particular coach before ordering parts rather than assuming the parts that others have used are what I need. I have a 90 5" elbow that I have to return to Amazon as we did not need it.
Have not driven anywhere yet but the sound of the engine at idle and fast idle is great!
Sometimes old muffler clamps are easier to remove if you turn the impact wrench to tighten and it shears them right off.