I am trying to install a Blue Sea L-Series ignition solenoid to replace the existing one that is sometimes unreliable. It is obvious (I think!) which bundle of cables/wires goes on each main post, and I can follow the diagram to attach the small gauge red and black wires where they likely belong.
What is not obvious is what is to be done with the existing wires (two red and a blue) that are currently attached to the single side post of the old solenoid.
Ideas/suggestions?
We have the "E Series", maybe a different layout than in your pics. Mine is made for dual batteries , no color code. It does show a "E Switch" # 9012. A "Mini Switch" #9005/9006 (for emergency cross connect) and a "T-1" Thermal Breaker. Hope this helps. ^.^d
Blue Sea Systems - Innovative Electrical Systems — Built to last (http://www.bluesea.com)
Thanks. I will let you know how it turns out.
One issue is that the brand or model of the existing solenoid is not clear, and that would allow me to access their wiring diagrams. I am diving into the schematics now to see if I can trace the destination of the ignition switch bundle and maybe determine how that (one of them at least) connects to the solenoid to activate it.
From the schematic it seems that the blue wire is connected to the remote start switch, and one of the two reds connects to the ignition switch wiring harness. All that remains is the source/destination of the second red wire, then I can proceed with more confidence.
Our wiring may be different, but I'll dig into my schematics if you dead end. The PO kept copious files on ours, but I see no notation about the wiring when he changed to Blue Sea; maybe my schematics have a clue. ^.^d
On Your "New " Solenoid" the "Black wire" goes to ground, the "Red Wire" is supplied by power from the "Ignition switch" . Your Old Solenoid, the attaching bolt supplied the ground, the small post supplied power from the ignition switch. the other wires on the small post were/are powering some other system supplied when the ignition switch is on.... Boats do not have the ability to use a frame system ground, so a separate ground wire has to be run for that purpose, "Small Black Wire"... ^.^d also, Be careful one side of your old solenoid is always "HOT" (has Power) unless you remove all 12 volt power to your motorhome, including any charger or converter...
Hey Woody,
Little late to this discussion, but I had the same problem when I installed my Blue Sea solenoid. There were several wires connected to the small solenoid activation stud. I didn't care where they went - they were obviously meant to be activated (along with the solenoid) when the ignition switch was turned to "ON". So what I did was turn my mounting screws for the solenoid into wiring "terminals". The screws penetrate plywood, so there is no short circuit. I used one of the screws for a POS terminal, and the other for a NEG terminal. I attached a ring connector to the red solenoid power wire and ran it to my POS terminal (mounting screw), along with all the other wires that were connected to the small stud on the old solenoid. I put a ring connector on the black solenoid ground wire and ran it to the NEG terminal (mounting screw). I also ran a wire from that mounting screw to one of the grounding points under the dash, and connected another couple wires that needed a ground connection.
Sounds kinda confusing when I read what I just wrote. Hopefully the photos help convey the concept.
Chuck,
Why does it look like you have black AND red wires going to one terminal??
Ummm, because that's the way it is? I don't pay any attention to the color of wires on our coach. It has been through 4 prior owners before us, and it has lots of "custom" wiring under the dash cover. Apparently whoever did the add-on wiring didn't always use the correct color wire, so I use a multimeter (or 12V test light) to verify polarity of every wire I need to mess with.
This Vintage of coach is color blind... especially after the 3rd or 4th owner lol...Should have seen my 76 Camaro in 1992... Guacamole Green and every color of wire under the rainbow .... with a lot of power ran with black.. Black was the new red back then
Thanks, Team!
Chuck, your adaptation of the mounting screws as terminals is a brilliant 'work-around'!
So, small black connects to the existing ground on the mounting bar, and all three wires on the existing small stud stay grouped together with the addition of the new small gauge (red) wire and all are attached together on the new 'positive' mounting screw. I can see that the beauty of this is that I don't have to cut into any wires from the ignition switch to make the system work.
The saga continues... yesterday after installation of the new solenoid, it would click but not turn over the engine. I put a battery charger on the chassis battery (following the theory that the battery was low (it happened already a couple of months ago after sitting without running for a couple of months) and it needed to be charged). Charged battery did not improve the situation so now the journey moves 'downstream to the starter connections etc.
Woody,
You have another big solenoid in the "starting engine" process. It is the "AUX START" solenoid. Usually located in the vicinity of the battery isolator and the 3rd heavy duty solenoid, which is the "BOOST" solenoid. The two big solenoids are usually together near the isolator..
Turn ignition key to "START", your new Blue Sea solenoid clicks and activates all the ignition powered circuits. One of those goes to the "AUX START" solenoid, which closes. This sends 12V power from the start battery bank to the starter solenoid (physically located on the engine starter). Starter solenoid activates the starter, and (hopefully) the engine starts.
So, next thing to check is the "AUX START" solenoid. Check it the same way you checked the "IGNITION" solenoid before you replaced it.
On my panel (photo below) the "AUX START" solenoid is below the isolator, on the left, partially hidden behind all the wires. The "BOOST" solenoid is the one on the right with the heavy battery cables connected to both big studs.
After tracking the wire back from the Starter solenoid to the Aux Start solenoid, I decided to confirm that no power was making it to the starter ( leading to the conclusion that the Aux Start solenoid was the culprit of my problem. While getting my multimeter set up and me awkwardly sprawled above the engine, my friend turned the key and the beast fired up!!
So... the conclusion is that there is a wire flaw that was temporarily corrected when I did the wiggling of the wire.
Next step is to replace and secure a solid connection.
Thanks very much for your guidance and help!
Another option for the solution is that me smacking the starter several times with a rubber mallet yesterday, may also 'solved' the problem, albeit likely temporarily. Once it stops raining (been doing that for the past 5 and a half months!) and I have a bit more time I will replace the exciter wire from Aux Start solenoid to the starter solenoid, and explore getting a replacement. Thanks again for your combined input on this problem, solving it made it possible for me to get to the tire shop and spend several thousand dollars on four new drive tires (the others were 9-12 (or older!) years old. Still in great shape but aging out. Cheers - until next time.