Some time ago I posted that I was looking for a replacement for my Microphor toilet, preferring a "china" manual type, preferably with a ball valve. Couldn't find one, due to short clearance behind it, so I resolved to fix it. I brought the toilet into to the garage and removed the hopper assembly (plastic body within the base), cleaned the rim that the flapper gasket contacts and then replaced the gasket so that it would properly seal. I also cleaned the solenoid (located in the cabinet base behind toilet), since I had a problem with the water continuing to run after the bowl filled. I put it all back, using a wax ring (tried the green foam, but didn't like it). The solenoid clean out did its job, but I still have a slow leak down of the toilet water. In addition, the water pump "grunts" every 20 sec. or so. The Microphor tech explained that the new gaskets are a little thicker and not as spongy as the original, so it should take a few days for it to seat properly. At this point I decide to replace the seat when I realized that the toilet needs to be removed in order to access the seat bolts from the bottom.
Aside from cussing out the guy who decided that electric toilets were the way to go in Foretravels, I wanted to ask if anyone has an explanation for the grunting water pump - I know that it indicates a small leak somewhere, but it isn't at the toilet, and it wasn't a problem before I started this project. Has anyone had a problem with the new gaskets?
Sven,
We have the new gasket and it does seal with less force than before. In theory this should cut down on the load that is exerted on the cam. If you let the flapper set open during a period of time in storage it does take a couple of days to get back sealed off completely. We still coat the seal with Dow Corning 111 compound. By what you have said you must have a LF-229 with the remote flush handle. Do you have an independent pressure regulator hid in the water line going to your solenoid? If so check it out closely as they can seep and be hard to see.
Here is another thought on the water pump grunting depending on the pump, it could be an internal leak of an O ring inside the pump if you cant find a piping leak somewhere else.
Pamela & Mike
Sven, you know how my microphor is located in front of the linen cabinet. Inside the cabinet and below the lowest shelf that is were the pressure regulator is located. It sits low in the cavity and hard to see. That maybe where your leak is. Ours was leaking about a year ago. The crack in the regulator was almost invisible and the leak was slight but a small wet spot could be seen on the wood floor. Hope you find the problem. Water leaks are a PITA.
Can you turn the water off for the toilet and see if the water pump still grunts?
Seems like someone is always trying to build a better mousetrap. I never had any problems with the outhouse on the farm. Well, maybe a couple or so. Full, flies, and odor (at times). >:D
I finally gave up on my Microphor a couple weeks ago. The cam that operates the flap broke, so I bought a new Dometic 320,with thethought that I would fix the microphor at my leisure. After the swap, I just threw the Microphor in the dumpster.
I liked the Microphor, but didn't like the maintenance or the half gallon flushes when boon-docking
Unfortunately, this toilet would not fit my coach - about 3.5" too deep on the back side.
Their is an adjustment on the microphor to control how long the water runs. Small knob under the cover
I ordered a new gasket yesterday as mine started slowly draining out. I had installed it 30 months ago. I talked with the very helpful women at Mullany and she said that the gasket should have lasted 5 - 10 years. She asked me to first coat with silicone grease again and to make sure the grease was on entire surface of the gasket. I did this and it has quit leaking. I ordered a new gasket anyway, just in case.
I'm aware of this knob and it controls the level of the water in the toilet. Presumably, you would want the level to cover the entire flapper level, if for no other reason than to keep the gasket from drying out. My problem had to do with water continuing to run until it started going out the overflow; it would have filled my black water tank, if we didn't shut it off. I really appreciate the manifold and being able to isolate a faucet, etc.
I've used silicone spray, but am having trouble finding the grease. Not sure if lithium grease would be an acceptible alternative.
Parker make a silicone grease(lube) should be able to be found at a gasket shop or O-Ring supply store. When I used to manufacture and repair Mechanical Seals we used it all the time. If you are in or near a large city look to a gasket shop or mechanical seal facility. Note: sometimes mechanical seals are called mechanical packings.
If you have a any more issues call me...713.907.4311
John
Any decent hardware store will have silicone grease in the plumbing department.
I would have thought so. Not to be found at Lowe's or HD in my neighborhood.
I've found silicone grease at Ace Hardware.
a water pressure tank with the diaphragm in it (air chamber) will help with the "grunts" from the pump, but only sealing the pressure loss to the pump switch will keep it from coming on. A good check valve could fix it. Look at boat parts stores for parts.
wantabe
If its the same stuff you get with brake pads any auto parts store should have it in small tubes.
I think that is what I used and its been good for about 1 year now.
Thanks for the suggestions. I finally found the grease with the soldering supplies in Lowe's, not where the other lubricants are located.
I went out to the coach to grease the gasket and found that the water had not drained from the bowl. I guess they were right at Mullenney when they said it should seat after a few days. In this case, it was about a week, but I'm happy. No more whining about this problem. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Be very Happy that
you do not have an early style of Magnum-Opus vacuum toilet....