Upon further investigation this is what I found, In removing old gorilla tape / paint. What would be a good fix for this with out a total roof replacement.
Have some ideas but my advice is like in the movie Pulp Fiction,wait for our Mr. Wolf to chime in,he will know what to do.
Send the picture to Greg at Extreme Paint and Graphic's he will give you the strait skinny.
Not the end of the world.
You will need to cut out all the bad area till you find solid roofing. Replace the plywood underneath, glue a fiberglass panel to the plywood, then fiberglass the edges, re-coat everything with gel coat.
Wow, what happened to that Maxxair vent cover? Did a tree limb fall on that area?
It looks to me like a combination of shadow and black rubber/asphalt tape.
Trent
Pictures of a repair
The maxxair vent was very brittle and has been removed. I have replaced with new unit, minus cover. will replace cover after roof repair.
You asked for an idea. Bill's referral to Extreme Paint is the best idea. This is another you can do yourself if you are short on time or $$$. I've used this product, Eternabond, for over 10 years and it is excellent. Worst thing about it is a permanent fix, once on, it is on. The body shop that first recommended it's use, said, "it will seal your leak forever, while you own it, worst thing, is that if later you choose to do another repair, you will have to grind it off, it sticks that well". That was on an aluminum roof Barth motorhome, had a tear an inch to two wide for 30 feet, previous owner hit a tree branch and that was the damage before he stopped. Clean surface well as instructed and roll out the product.
You can get away with just one roll, I just gave a link to this as the roller or a similar one is a must. Amazon.com: Eternabond Repair Kit Includes Roof Repair Tape, Primer, Cleaner... (https://www.amazon.com/Eternabond-Repair-Primer-Cleaner-Roller/dp/B01CT3MM4C)
Simple fix and Lon is on right track.
Cut out bad area and mixx up some resin and hardner and pour it over the revealed problem. Keep doing this till it is level with original roof then power sand.
You will find that the first couple of pourings will soak into wood membrane but once it hardens that will stop.
I have done this exact repair to another FT and it works fine and costs are materials. if you want to use a body filler paste for the last pour that is fine.
paint the repair with a good bonding sealer and then top coat.
JohnH
Instead of paint I would brush on gelcoat or Marine-Tex.
Gelcoat is the outer sealing layer of the original roof (not paint).
Marine-Tex is a boat repair epoxy compound that looks like gelcoat but is stronger and sticks better then gelcoat.
Marine-Tex is available in off white or grey.
I am not sure if it is available where you live!
I am a little confused. Other than Tony's icon photo, how do we know what year and model coach he has.
According to his profile
'94 U-300, 40'
If that picture of the roof is any indication of the condition of the rest of the coach.....I recommend removing the radiator cap and driving another coach under the cap.
Hello nitehawk, I am not sure your post was appropriate or not. I believe your sarcasm come from your last two days of almost two feet of snow. "No pictures right now, Dave. We got 19" of snow over the last two days. A new record for the area. Now have to contend with blowing & drifting snow. Am going out & putting the snowblower on the tractor.
I think the big wheel casters were for the first owner who was an optimist. Thought 200 HP in a diesel was overkill? Maybe a psych tool for other class A owners?
Caflashbob maybe would know the thinking behind the casters. His store sold this "overpowered" wheelie caster equipped coach."
Earlier Tony posted "Just purchased it 3 weeks ago. Got to put new tires on it. overall the coach is in good shape. I'm a newbie so i got a lot to learn." so let us give him a break, most of us were there once.
My rv had the roof repainted at Extreme when the full body paint was done by the previous owner. I do not know if it had a similar crack or not, I just know what it looks like now. From your picture I knew you had stripped away a prior sealing of that repair and were asking about a way or the best way to repair that. I see no correlation between that damage and the rest of your rv's condition. My previous post about Eternabond tape was just that, another way to make that repair.
My utility trailer next to my rv in the picture below, will have the aluminum roof sealed this summer with all joints sealed with Dicor 501LSW and then those joints covered in Eternabond. Amazon.com: Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling Lap Sealant, 4 Pack: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-Pack/dp/B00G6KGPFM) (notice the $98 3 items grouped together and the roller tool listed below for use with the Eternabond.)
By the way, my rv is 20+ years old, is not a GV, and does not have slides or a 400 to 600 HP engine, and so I know many can and do pick on my choice. Most all of this forum's users have a budget. Stay within yours and have fun! I can be as sarcastic as anyone here, I choose not to be. At the bottom of all sarcastic jokes there is a butt to the joke, in my opinion, not funny.
Ont know where you are located, but dont foorget Foretravel--- they can remove a portion of the roof, replace any damaged foam and plywood and replace the fiberglass section. When they get done you wont be able to find the epair and it will be as it was originally. Thier fiberglass shop is excellnt. I had a 10 foot section of my riof replaced there, and am very happy with the result. The cost was reasonable and the quality of the repair work was excellent.
ok dic....head.....nighthawk. totally understand the comment ...i can take the sarcasm...keep bringing it!!!!. thank you jack lewis and all the other positive comments ....i love the old coaches that is why i bought this one.. going to bring her back to life!!!!!