We have one of the corner showers and I realy like it. But our shower floor has developed an intermittent squeak. I have removed the vent under the vanity in the bedroom that leads to below the shower. I don't see any water damage or moisture anywhere. I'm just wondering if a sqeek means movement and wouldn't movement be bad. I don't want a leak to develop around the drain.
It appears that the shower floor is supported by a piece of plywood with no other support under the plywood. So I got the bright idea to cut some 2 by 2 boards just a little shorter than the verticle distance between the motorhome floor and the shower floor. Stick those in there and shove some door shims above or below to tighten it up. Now the sqeek is probably between the shower floor and the plywood piece just below it but I don't see how I could get anything into that space. Outside of cutting an acces hole to get to things which I REALY don't want to do.
Trouble is I can barely get my hand through the opening below the bedroom vanity and then it's pretty tough to do anything. So I'm looking for some brighter ideas. I can't be the only one to have developed or solved this problem. Or I could just loose some weight and maybe the problem would go away.
Spray foam will expand and provide additional support. Do not buy the low expansion type for doors and windows. Regular stuff was strong enough to warp door and window frames and prevented them from functioning when sprayed into the very confined space. Your space is probably unconfined for the most part and foam will expand sideways.
Rather than trying to lose weight, have you tried standing on one foot at a time? >:D >:D :))
Tough enough showering in a quart of water, now you want me do it standing on one foot :). Might have been possible before vertigo came along. Probably the DW and I showering together that started the issue.....
Phred. Thought about the expanding foam thing but. Wow, what it I ever needed to do something in that space ?? You know, othe plumbing stuff.
You would have to dig it out with a tool unfortunately. On the other hand if it prevents the floor failure in the first place, or prevrens the drainage pipe from failing due to too much movement. You may be good for a couple of thousand showers. Nobody, or nothing can effectively resist thermal movement.
Long wooden dowel, some rubber bands, small (very small) inside diameter clear flexible plastic tubing, and a can of WD-40 Dry Silicone Spray.
Slide the tubing onto the red tube on the can, use the rubber bands to hold the tubing onto the dowel.
Then move the end of the tube/dowel around under the shower floor while dispensing the Dry Silicone Spray everywhere.
Can't say It won't work. Can't say it will. But worth a try. Use the whole can, maybe two cans. Won't hurt. Just don't get it on the floor. Very slippery stuff.
Had a squeak in our car somewhere. Sprayed the rubber gaskets around the doors with the stuff. Squeak gone.
On our 2003 there is a register vent set into the fiberglass base right below the shower door. When it's removed there is considerable access to the underneath.
T Man. I take it that the register vent is for access and not connected to heat. Could you take a pic of it.
Hawk. I may try the silicone thing, but it will be tough to get it between the shower floor pan and the plywood just below. The only way to get to it is through the hole where the drain comes down.
It's just an opening to access the underneath of the shower, not hooked to anything except the fiberglass,
Remove two screws and the vent...............and you're in.
That's not supply or return for the AH?
Don't know about yours Bob but mine doesn't have that vent in the shower base. Only the one below the bedroom vanity.
No, not unless it vents into a compartment below, via the cabinet under the bathroom sink.
edit: I just checked and it only covers an opening in the shower base and has nothing to do with the AH.
I am sure the reason for that vent opening is to let some warmer air under for drain pipe and trap. I bet this pipe is right over a wheel well and in winter this trap can freeze easily as it will be just an inch above the underside, hence not much insulation value. The flow of air between this vent and one in bedroom is helping to keep it from freezing.
Check it out and see if I am correct on location ,then it will make sense.
JohnH
I have used the expanding foam to stabilize shower walls. Should help the floor also.
If so then why don't they all have them?
Bob it sounds like a window in the shower base is a good option. Find a vent cover that will fit there, cut out to size. That would give you access to that area and it would ventilate and let that area breathe.
Can you see that area from the opening you have to be sure cutting there wouldn't hit anything else that might be under there?
I think the vent cover for accessibility looks like the way to go, that's shaping up to be the general consensus anyway. Maybe then I'll use some 1" closet pole for support ? It's intermittent anyway. One day it has a squeak and for a couple days it doesn't soo ???
I did notice something while looking thru the vanity access. There's a heater duct hose so I'm already covered on the heat for plumbing part. Thanks for the ideas guys.
Bob,
I would refrain from the 1" closet pole as you will end up with a hole or holes in the shower pan.
Give this a thought, after you cut an access vent in the pan take a paper towel tube or several and cut it about 1/8" to 1/4" shorter than the distance between the shower pan bottom and the floor. Drill/cut a 1/4" hole in the side to slide the snout of the spray foam can in. Now stand your new "piers" up around the tub drain and half fill the tube/pier mold with the spray foam. Any over fill will seep out. When dry you will have both support and access to the area that can be removed if need be. Doing something like this will give the pan a cushion of support rather than a ridged support.
Mike
See. That's what I'm talking about. The collective intelligence of this forum is amazing i now a several options to consider. Thanks again
I've. I thought about something similar but not exactly, I just didn't hear anyone else suggest it so I thought naaa. By the way, gorilla glue sets up pretty hard. Would that work. And it expands also.
Bob,
I have never tried gorilla glue for something like this. It should work as it does expand and has a cushion factor, in fact it would hold it's size better than spray foam under load. It takes longer for it to foam up so it would give you a longer working time than spray foam. The only down side would be the amount needed and it would be harder to remove if you ever needed to take it out.
Mike
We have a vent under the shower door as well. If you are going from the plywood floor of the coach to the plywood under the shower pan I would try to add as much support area as possible. Maybe 2x4 or 4x4 blocks. If they are snug then some silicone or 3M 4000 will hold them in place and minimize movement (squeaking). Gorrilla glue is a polyurethane that cures and expands just a bit in the presence of moisture. It is a fairly flexible glue and not usually used for structural joints. It will hold the parts in place but maybe more than you want if you should ever need to make adjustments.
Let us know how it goes.
T man, my comment on the vents (not just yours under the shower base) was the reason they have a vent (or vents) and not for a heater outlet warm air.
JohnH
Just got back from two days in the hospital where they did a biopsy on a lump on my right lung,
Asked for and got all the clear small diameter plastic tubing from my IVs.
Told them I planned on sliding a piece over the plastic straw on my WD-40, then tape the other end to a wooden dowel. Then I would have a way to reach up or into areas where my arms can't go.
They responded by by stripping two IV stations and said they normally get thrown away anyway. But they thought I had a quite ingenious idea.
Hawk... I hope that biopsy turns out negative for you. Think good positive thoughts dude.
Great idea and I too hope for negative results, meaning nothing is found.