Installed new house batteries and put in start battery preparing to start the coach and get new tires installed. Turned ignition switch, one short crank and no start. Didn't even turn the motor over. Hit the boost switch, light didn't come on. Turn the switch, still nada. In a panic, called Dave Cobb to see what I was missing (thanks again Dave). Suggested cleaning all terminal posts on batteries. Took all apart, cleaned connections and checked voltages. House batteries w/generator running 14.2v. Start battery 12.7v.
When I hit the switch, I can hear the solenoid in the dash area engage, all gauges register and the fuel pump starts humming. Didn't have someone available to listen to the solenoids by the isolator while turning the start switch.
Traced the wires to the isolator panel. One solenoid (I believe to be boost solenoid 3 terminal) showed 12.7v on one large lug, 14.2v on the other large lug and 0 on the small terminal. I removed solenoid, went to Oreilly's & ordered in new solenoid, delivered this afternoon. Wrong solenoid. The new one has 4 terminals not 3. Came back to the forum and began reading past post's on others starting problems.
The coach has settled to low for me to be able to crawl underneath and reach the starter solenoid. It can be seen from above with the bed raised however.
Any suggestions for the proper solenoid to replace the ones on the isolator panel? Previous posts referred to a Sea Land product but not sure if it would be the correct one or how to wire it since it isn't a 3 terminal switch. Any other advice would be appreciated. Just want to get her started and new shoes put on. The tires have been waiting for me in the shop for a week, want to get them rolling.
Thanks in advance,
Larry
The 4 post will work you just ground one of the small terminals doesn't matter which one and put the trigger wire on the other one. As far as voltages. the small terminal will only have power with the boost switch activated and then the two big terminals are tied together.
Larry,
As long as the new solenoid is of the proper amp rating AND a continuous duty one, 2 small terminals is an easy fit.
If only one small terminal, it is the positive one from dash switch.
If two, the OTHER ONE is to ground. Just run a short wire to any solid metal on the coach.
The one terminal solenoids ground through the metal to metal contact of the body of the solenoid to chassis metal.
Thanks Brett, does it matter which terminal is the ground?
Larry
Read reply one
Yup, multiple "typed at the same time" answers.
Sorry Chuck I didn't see your reply (putting steak on the BBQ :-* )
Thanks, I'll call Oreilly and pick up the solenoid if it is continuous and proper amp. Any ideas how much? 20, 200, 250????
Larry
This is what many use: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous duty
Thanks Dan
I am assuming that the other solenoid is the same as the boost solenoid????? I just ordered 2 and will receive tomorrow after work. Hope this gets the girl running ^.^d
Larry
Be sure it is correct amperage and continuous duty. I bought 2 or 3 locally, suppose to handle the load. They only worked a couple of times before failing. I ordered one from FT it has been on and working for 3 or 4 years now.
I now understand why it costed more.
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24213-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B005K2429I)
Jerry, they are listed as 200 amp continuous duty, from the other responses, should be good.
Chuck, wish I had thought/used amazon. Oreilly=$75 ea, Amazon= \$43 :o
With shipping though it would be probably the same or higher.
Thanks all,
Larry
You are good to go. You can use the same solenoid for either "BOOST" or "AUX START" applications.
The boost application is potentially more demanding, because some owners will leave it activated for days or weeks at a time (to keep the start batteries charged when on shore power). This is why a "continuous duty" solenoid is specified.
In contrast, the aux start solenoid is only activated while the ignition key is in the "start" position. I.E. a few seconds each time you start the engine. The "continuous duty" solenoid still works fine here, but is a little over-kill.
WAit a second, you had the batteries disconnected. Voltages at the boost solenoid look good. Does your coach have an alarm? Every time I reconnect the batteries I have to find a AAA battery for the remote and disarm the alarm system as it cuts power to the control side of the starter solenoid. (This was the first year I took one with me made for a much faster experience than hanging upside down and using a screwdriver at the starter
Thanks Chuck. Picked the solenoids tonight, to late to work on them, hopefully tomorrows storms will hold off.
Toby, no alarm that I have ever found.
Thanks again all,
Larry