I need some advice and part name/number. I am replacing my start batteries, going from wet cell to a maintenance free type. I have been reading a lot about the Optima Red top group 34 batteries and the best price I can find is $237.99 each from Amazon.
My coach a 1999 U295 uses three batteries and this seems awful high for start batteries. Is there an equal quality battery a little less expensive?
Also does anyone have the name of, or part numbers for the cable/bar that connects the three batteries together so that the main cable can be connected? Mine are unsuitable for reuse.
Thanks in advance for any and all input.
"Also does anyone have the name of, or part numbers for the cable/bar that connects the three batteries together so that the main cable can be connected? Mine are unsuitable for reuse. " That is usually custom made. You can buy cable and connectors and make it yourself. I am sure MOT or FT would ship to you also. If you are willing to spend $200+ for engine batteries I'd highly recommend Odyssey, such as Amazon.com: Odyssey 34-PC1500T Automotive and LTV Battery: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-34-PC1500T-Automotive-LTV-Battery/dp/B00249CSS2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525120629&sr=8-3&keywords=size+34+battery) I know even more expensive. If not you may consider Duracell AGM (https://www.samsclub.com/sams/auto-group-24-34agm-36-mo-free/prod9510079.ip)
Best approach for connecting battery cables is to use what is called military terminals, which fit over neg & pos automotive tapered round battery posts, and present a place for bolt & nut to which short cables can be attached. When the battery post part gets worn or broken, just replace it and reuse the cables.
I replaced my start batteries with maintenance free Group 31 batteries from a truck stop. These batteries have more cold cranking amps and heavier plates inside than the group 34 they replaced. Best part is they were $105/each. Since then I have noticed that if you look around at the truck stops you can catch them on sale for $80 / each.
Best of luck with your decision. ^.^d
My 99 295 Only has 2 group 34s, I'm going to replace mine with a pair of group 31s for around 100 bucks ea, just don't see almost 500 bucks for 2 start batts. But hey I'm cheap.
I am cheap ( frugal) also Bruce. Nothing wrong with that at all......... ^.^d
My U270 has only 2 start batteries also- FYI.
Flooded cell batteries self discharge many times faster than the oem red top AGM's that your coach was fit with new.
Another thing that requires power. We have limited solar. Need the lowest self loss battery banks.
Ran into an issue with ok flooded cell engine start matteries mixed with a 2/3 condition set(3) of flooded cell batteries that required more power to recharge than a Trickl charge can put out. Failed the charger. Killed a set of batteries.
Three mk 8g8d's and three optima red tops and a sealand combiner and 14 amps of solar were required to permanently fix the charging issues.
Too expensive not to fix the system and have 6 perfect batteries,
Just like Foretravel did new for the original nice folks owners?
I thought about going from 3x34 to 1x31 or 1x65 However I am not sure about PHCA(5sec)
(PHCA (Pulse Hot Cranking Amperes) PHCA is a measurement of the current a fully charged battery can deliver for 5 seconds)
34 (PHCA) = 1500
65 (PHCA) = 1750
31 (PHCA) = 2150
I wonder if I go up to 2150 PHCA it will do any harm?
When it comes to starting more amps is better. Note as long as cables and connections are in good shape.
Wonder what is wrong with our old 8.2 DD Turbo-charged V8. It has a 1,000 CCA truck battery that has a seven year warranty and cost a tremendous $135. :))
I wire brushed all contact surfaces, minimized cable lengths where I could, made sure connectors are good & tight, and then sprayed the contact areas, after all assembly is done, with hair spray. It seems to stop corrosion at the terminals on the batteries.
We bought the Duracell at Sam's Club. $149 and tax.
No it will not hurt anything.
I agree with Barry re: use military terminals. I use them on all of my equipment as they offer a lot of flexibility when running and connecting the cables. Here is a link to the military terminals on Amazon. I have not bought this brand but they look identical to the ones I bought from Larson's
Amazon.com: Fastronix Military Spec Battery Connectors- Negative Terminal:... (https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Military-Connectors-Negative-Terminal/dp/B0052617D6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525180423&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=military+battery+terminal+connectors&psc=1)
Don't waste the money on expensive batteries that may not last as long as garden variety Autozone or O'Reilly Autoparts. Our Duralast maintenance free lasted over 8 years. I just replaced them with 31 series for just about $300 for all three. 10% discount for buying three. (Detroit 2-cycles take three start batteries). Advertising is designed to lighten your wallet.
Cables/connectors are easy to make yourself with inexpensive tools and parts.
Pierce
IMHO wet cells are an inexpensive and good choice for start batteries that are located in an open-air environment.
We purchased two ten year old Lexus cars recently, both cars have low miles and were garaged for long periods.
Both cars went through 3-4 batteries from the self loss of the flooded cells. The last car has an alternator whine when starting I think from the heavy charging loads placed on the system from discharged batteries all the time.
I replaced the wet cell batteries on four of our cars and the coach with AGM batteries as they are not daily drivers.
The solar and combiner fixed the coach issues.
The lower self discharge has given a better service life and less generating circuit wear on the cars and truck.
Hot location flooded cells should I think be charged at a much lower voltage than most alternators put out.
Foretravel moved the unicoaches battery to behind the tires in the engine compartment where the road heat and engine compartment temps were much higher then switched from flooded cells to red top spiral wound AGM's that could take the heat and vibration better.
My guru buddy tried temp controlled charging on engine batteries mounted externally like a unicoach has and the high temps basically shut down the alternator. Showing how high hot that area really was
As far as I can figure out a high heat and vibration mounting area and a std isolator and a over 14 volt alternator and any flooded cell battery would not seem to be the correct match IMO.
Thanks to everyone for the great information, I new this would be the place to go to get good help.
There is a lot to take into consideration with batteries.
Thanks again.