Just replaced both solenoids by the isolator. Still wont crank. I took the following readings. The generator was running while testing.
Boost switch off;
Left solenoid:
Left lug 0.0 v
Center small terminal 0.0v
Right lug 13.2v
Right solenoid:
Left lug 14.5 v
Center small terminal 0.0 v
Right lug 13.2 v
Boost switch on;
Left solenoid;
Left lug 0.0v
Center small terminal 0.0v
Right lug 13.5v
Right solenoid;
Left lug 14.5v
Center small terminal 13.5v
Right lug 14.5v
I believe that the right solenoid is the boost aux solenoid. All terminals at the batteries, solenoids and isolator have been cleaned.
Turn the ignition switch on, all dash gauges work. Turn the key to start & I hear the solenoid in the dash engage. Can't hear anything from the engine compartment.
Didn't have anyone there to help turn the key while I was in the back. Weather permitting the DW will go with me to help tomorrow evening. The light on the boost switch didn't light up. (Bad bulb?)
Since the rig is in storage, the coach has settled down on the tires so I can't quite fit under to get to the starter. Tried from under the bed, can barely see the starter, (hoses in the way). Tried tapping on the starter solenoid but to no avail. because of the angle from above, I could only give light taps. Probably not enough to do any loosening.
Besides trying to get to the starter solenoid, what else should I be looking for?
On the bright side, for some reason, the toggle switch to the spotlight was glowing. Never did that before. Went outside and the spotlight was on. Tried moving it side to side and it looks like it works great. Go figure.
Any help is really appreciated.
Larry
Larry,
Can you take a volt/ohm meter and check to see if the solenoid in the dash is actually passing electricity through it? Just because it clicks don't always mean it is working.
Mike
Take a wire and jump from the 13.5 volt lug on the left solenoid to the small center lug. That should power the solenoid on the starter.
Larry,
Check for any loose connections on the starter.
You can use a portable air compressor connected to the service hose(the one you use to air up your tires) to get the coach up so you can get under there after you install your safety blocks.
If you have 110v at the storage,cant you use the aux air to inflate air bags?
Try jiggling your shifter. Or if you only have buttons try different ones and then back to the neutral.
Yah. Sounds like it ain't in neutral.
When you have help available place your hand on the solenoid and have your help turn the Boost switch on. You should feel and hear the solenoid latch. Also, have you turned your head lights on when trying to start? Do they dim, or go out?
To all who have helped me with this issue, thank you. Unfortunately, the weather is starting to boil up so it will be Friday before I can get down there.
Mike, I never considered the solenoid might not be passing the juice thru. I will check it.
Chuck, it will be easy to try the jumper to the solenoid. One more thing to try.
John Duld/ John 44 I have never used the on-board air hose. Kinda forgot about it. I have never heard the aux compressor kick on, figured it didn't work. However, once the coach was leveled, it didn't lose any air. It could be my bad hearing just didn't pick it up. It was on my radar to chase down. I will bring my portable air compressor with me to try raising the coach. I will definitely put in the safety stands, thanks for the reminder.
Nitehawk & Twig, It didn't occur to me to see where the transmission position is. Never even looked at the pad. It would be nice if it was that simple and I am just that absent minded (politically correct way of saying stupid).
Jerry, The wife is going down with me on Friday, I will give it a try. Didn't turn on the headlights, but will check it out.
Once again, thanks for the suggestions. I hope one works. Any more ideas, please feel free to chime in.
Larry
The right solenoid which appears to be boost is operating correctly. I would say not to worry about the light in the switch for now.
If the solenoid on the left is in fact for the starter the issue is that it is not getting voltage on the center post (small post) to signal it.
Make sure the ignition relay in the dash is working and all terminals are on tight. Look at ignition switch where you turn the key and see if you get power one one of the wires only when the key is held in crank. Also look at the trans display and verify it shows neutral.
Thanks Toby, I will be down there tomorrow after work. I appreciate the advise.
Larry
Have you tried the remote start switch?
I'm not sure how much of that circuit is separate from the normal start circuit.
Would be interesting to try it.
John, the remote switch has been removed by a previous owner. Would love to know how to hook up a new one.
Larry
It's in your schematics along with the wire codes. I have it for the 1995 but not your year. Check our Foretravel Library under Media: http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=165
Pierce
Thanks Pierce, One more thing in the bucket list, but at least I know where to begin ^.^d
Larry
PS be looking for a new post in a few minutes :D
Larry,
I Recently had to replace the remote start switch. Mine is probably different than yours but this may help.
Mine is a simple heavy duty on/off toggle I bought at the local big truck supply. Two poles for the wires. The red one goes on the right side. Two blue wires and one black one with the fuse go on the left side. Yours is probably different and may require a different set up, but the wires should be behind the panel where the switch is mounted.
I do have Drawing A-4752 which may be the one you need.
Jerry