I decided to replace my front shocks on the 91 U300 today.
The original shocks Koni 88-1490 seemed to give us a lot of bounce. After researching shocks I decided to use a Gabriel adjustable 1 5/8 bore shock. I did this because Koni is just too far out of my financial budget. Keeping this project low cost, best bang for the buck has always been a priority for me. At around $150.00 each I was looking at 600.00 + for 4 shocks. The Gabriel shocks delivered from Ryder Fleet Products were just under $250.00 for the 4.
I used Gabriel 89407 Gas SLX Adjustable shocks. They offer 3 dampening positions I used the factory setting at Firm. I can go 1 click to extra firm or 1 click down for a softer ride. Replacement went as expected not too hard a job. Air tools were needed and used. I removed the front wheels to get better access.
The specs on the original 88-1490 Koni are The Gabriel 89407 Spec are
Extended 21.77 Extended 21.62
Collapsed 13.98 Collapsed 14.04
Travel 7.80 Travel 7.58
The Gabriel shocks were a crossover shock part number for the Koni 88-1490.
I have a trip planned for next weekend to the Antique Motorcycle Club Meet in Denton,NC and will update report after I travel on these.
Thinking about replacing ours also...
One question,do you know how the koni's performed when new or did you get an old coach with worn out shocks?
Be aware that the red/brown Koni shocks are ADJUSTABLE: KONI NA | Adjustment Guides (http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/)
Just scroll down to the 88 series or whatever series you have. Quite a bit of difference in rebound dampening is adjustable.
Why would the Koni's be so much more? I could see 30 or 40% more but 2-1/2 times as much?
I just went with the Koni because they came highly recommended here.
Suspect the Koni's priced were FSD's. A much more complex shock that adjusts based on frequency of movement. SOFT over small, abrupt changes (expansion joints) VERY firm over large dips.
Again with the OE Koni red/brown shocks, before buying new, I would pull and adjust them to a firmer/the firmest setting and do another test drive before deciding to buy any shock.
I saw that Brett and after I took a couple off I took them into the shop and went to try and set the tension all they do is spin like a nut on a thread and come to a stop. No kind of indent etc to know where you would be in the adjustment range. Instructions said you would feel a click but on mine I did not. I did not feel any less resistance in any of them. For all I know they probably are fine but I have new ones now. I'll see how it rides next weekend.
Was trying to determine how the Konis compare to Gabriel,seems like your Konis were soft because they were worn.Think the
Konis are priced more because they are better shocks,not to say the Gabriels are not good the Konis just better.
Have adjusted a bunch of them. The only way to engage the adjustment detent is to fully compress the shock and then SLOWLY rotate the upper part until it "clicks down" into the adjustment detents. You will know you are properly engaged when you rotate the upper body and it stops rotating (in either direction) as it reaches the limit of adjustment-- soft in one direction, firm in the other.
Again, this adjusts dampening on EXTENSION, not compression. And Extension is where you want the vast majority of you dampening, as dampening on extension does not make the ride stiffer, while dampening on compression adds to "effective spring rate", making the ride stiffer.
I did that Brett I felt it engage but there were No Clicks at all shock turned just like you were tightening a bolt and stopped, Turned it back the opposite way until it stopped. Probably my Bad They might be just fine but I did not know how to adjust them until after I put New one on,Story of my Life!!....
I don't think they click while rotating. Mine didn't just turned to stop and then back counting turns. I counted the turns to the stop the way they were removed and calculated half way from the way they came off to full dampening and set it there.
Correct, once the tangs engage (that is the click) there is no clicking. And with tangs engages you should have 2-3.5 turns between the "soft" stop and "firm" stop.
And the "click" is really more of a "feel" as the tangs engage the adjuster.
Well I'll hang onto the old ones and put them with the rest of the old stuff I collect and if the new ones do not perform I'll readjust the old ones and put them back on. Or in 5 or 10 years i'll run back across them and try and remember why I saved them along with the other usable good stuff I have saved. I better remind myself to tag them also so I remember what they fit! Now where do I put them, Ahh In this box , stump opened box.... Wow Thats where I put that, I forgot all about that....lol...... :)) ..
Yes, kind of like you are pushing down, and rotating a wingnut that drops into a slot when it engages. I have old Koni reds, and can find no reason to replace them. Adjusting them makes a big difference. As Brett says, they don't click, you just count turns. Also, not necessary to remove shock to adjust, just bottom bolt.
That is VERY good information. Was not aware that you do not have to remove to adjust. I will try this first before ordering.
David
Don't forget Bilsteins. Very good shock
Yes, but do they have one that both rides and handles well?
They may, but it would be fairly new design for Bilstein. PLEASE LET US KNOW IF THEY DO.
The beauty of the Koni FSD's is that they base dampening on type of bump-- very little on those small, sharp pavement changes (like going from pavement onto a bridge) and massively ramp up dampening over the big bumps.
And, the vast majority of their dampening is on EXTENSION, not compression. Dampening on extension controls suspension movement without adding to spring rate=harsher ride.
Added to the list. So were do you think your shocks were all adjusted the same and too what position was the starting point. So once that is established you advanced 50% towards firm?
So were you happy with that position or would you have done differently? I wish I had know about this when I had the tires off doing brake slide pin service.
Thank you Brett for posting adjustment link. I did not know.
Scott
If REALLY, REALLY bored, pull all of them and adjust. NO idea if the installer adjusted them all the same or not.
And I would start this by driving over standard shopping center humps to see if shocks are too stiff (do not even complete one "up" motion) or too soft (coach goes over bump-- up down up down).
I would adjust all shocks on an axle the same, but front and back can be entirely different.
I would NOT replace Koni adjustable shocks (the red-brown ones) without seeing if they can be adjusted properly first. You can effect a significant change in dampening on extension adjusting from full soft to full firm.
Again, the easy/no tools required procedure with shocks off. Yes, on some if one has excellent spatial relationship you just need to remove one end, compress the shock and adjust.
KONI NA | comp (http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/comp/)
Scott, adjusting them really didn't help that much. lt was the rebound not compression that they lacked. I put the Golds on and they solved the porpoising problem I was getting on Ca. freeways and highways.
Good to know. I will adjust front ones stiffer then and see, still have a line on shocks from FOA, but haven't pursued.. really, really bored? I wish, I've never been as busy since I took the lay-off, too many FT distractions keeping me away from the coach.
Scott
Yes, no question they CAN wear out.
Pretty easy to tell once removed. They should be pretty easy to compress and REALLY hard to extend/open. If you can not achieve "really hard to extend/open" replace them.
My point is with the adjustable Koni shocks, don't automatically assume they are bad-- may just be set to softest setting.