Alright Foretravel gurus,
You've helped and advised quite a bit already; however, the latest unexpected project has me a bit intimidated. My brother in law hit the step coming out of the coach the other day while we were out fishing. Rivets popped and step started coming off.
I plan to start reworking the step. I've read the posts I can find.
1.I understand I will disconnect from the pneumatic arms.
2. Drill out the old rivets
3. Try to separate the fiberglass cover using a caulk knife and checking all edges for possible screws that have been added since 1996.
4. Once separated I'll steel brush the step frame, coat it in Ospho. Later pain the frame with rustoleaum or plastidip or truck bed liner.
5. replace fiberglass cover
6. Use stainless still screws with button covers to reaffix
7.use some hard black caulk (what brand? Or type?)
8. Drill 2-4 holes in bottom to allow water to escape.
9. Reaffix to pneumatic arms and hope for another 22years 😉
What am I missing or what deeper understanding of the project do I need to know?
Thanks in advance! The ForeForum is the greatest treasure on the internet! I appreciate all!
Just redid mine,take out the screws from the frame,then you can put the step on a bench,take out rivets,pry apart and clean,grind
as much rust off as you can,inside under step will be full of rust,use the ospho but get a good paint like por-15 or rust bullet and
follow directions,use a black windshield sealer to fill the gap between fiberglass and step.While your at it clean and paint the
frame section you undercover when you remove hinge.
Small world as I did mine yesterday. I had previously replaced all the rivets where the hinge mounts to the body with 1/4" x 20 x 1/2" button head stainless cap screws. See at 1/4-20 x 1/2" Button Head Socket Cap Screws 18-8 Stainless Steel, Quantity... (https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket-Screws-Stainless-Quantity/dp/B00YSSF9WO) . I think you need to purchase 19 at your local hardware store or Fastenal. You also will need a 1/4" x 20 threads per inch tap (about $8) and need a drill to oversize the holes so you can tap all the threads for the cap screws. Plus, you will also need a 13/64" bit (#7) to drill for the tap. My old tap was dull so I bought two in case I broke one. The hinge will have to be drilled oversize or the cap screws won't go through.
OK, I drilled out all the old rivets at the hinge and all around the edges. I used a sharp broad putty knife with a hammer to go around the entire step to separate the steel step from the Fiberglas. That took a while and a few nasty words.
After separating the two, I used a sandblaster to get rid of rust in a couple of spots as the rust was only in a couple of spots. Then a 7" disk on my grinder to get rid of the surface rust. Once it had been cleaned up, I used the 13/54" drill along with some oil to tap all the holes. Once that was done, I used a strong detergent along with Comet to get rid of all the shavings and oil.
Then I sprayed a couple coats of Black Shell Rust Bullet on. It's expensive but works well. About $46/qt. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsb-bsg?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-rust-bullet&gclid=CjwKCAjw8_nXBRAiEiwAXWe2ydqVjkDyaAVhhUtQWJ_83NcKAnXsdkH4dqA1uhfKJ02-JEPqpXccfxoCs6EQAvD_BwE
Any other good black paint will also do the job. We either powder coat, use Emron or the Rust Bullet at the hanger on aircraft so I had some RB left over.
I then took the Fiberglas to the kitchen sink and cleaned it to get it read to go back on. Once that was done and everything was dry, I pushed the two back together and installed the cap screws with a little teflon paste from a tube. I then put it into place with some wooden blocks underneath and then installed the last row of cap screws in the hinge.
I took the rods apart before hand with the nut and fitting that allows the stair to pivot on the hinge. I cleaned the threads, replaced the rusty nuts with stainless and powder coated the fork fitting (for the lack of a better word). It could easily have been painted but I powder coat everything that will fit in my oven :D
I should back up slightly as I used a white indoor/outdoor silicone to fill the gap between the steel and the Fiberglas. I used masking tape, tried to inject the silicone all around, wiped it off with my finger and then removed the tape.
Any good paint will do the job and some form of acid will clean the rust. I used what I had.
Sorry about the photos but the gardener with the weed whip is here today so there is dirt and grass on everything in the photo.
I sent off for a vinyl step cover but an abrasive tape will also do the job so the step is not slick.
Pierce
Perfect timing....I'm about to start this project :) :)
Pierce,Amazon stocks the rust bullet,think I got mine from their website,I tried the small 6 pack,it has 3 different kinds.
For the really rusty stuff, I've got a gallon of the grey Rust Bullet. It's thick so has to be brushed on but goes directly over rust and has an anti California CARB smell to it. Really strong. We did a trailer frame last month. As I found out, you can't get any on your skin or it's there for a week or so. The black sprays without reducer but you need a big nozzle on your gun or it goes slow. Since it's an enamel, a tack coat followed by a heavy second coat does the job. Over a few minutes, it lies nice and flat without any runs and has a super shiny glass like look to it. You just can't spray the black over the gray and have it look smooth.
We got one gallon of black that was solid in the can so best to check before you plan on shooting. They replaced it without sending the old back and with only a phone call in 24 hours. One of their stores is in Reno/Sparks so just over the hill from us.
Pierce
If you have not replaced the inside rivets on the hinge at the coach frame, you will have to add more to the 19 button heads required for just the step.
P
You guys are awesome! Thank you so much! A special shout out to David (John44) and Pierce! David called me and explained somethings and Pierce's instructions with what I've found on the forum, give even me the boost of confidence I need to start my project!
Thanks guys! I'll let you know when I either get it complete or need clarification on something!
I am making some progress! I'm considering have a new step frame built out of stainless steel. I know it will be expensive, but so was the Foretravel originally, right....I'm gonna get a couple bids. Here's what I've done so far, the easy part I guess.
If I don't have new one out of stainless steel, I will have this one media blasted and powder coated, then spray with Bedliner.
I have found the stainless steel rivets are not my friends lol. I still have a couple to get out and to remove the washer built up ones.
I did get frame on a wire bench brush this afternoon. My brand new hand held angle grinder was smoking after hardly any use. I didn't take any pictures after it came off grinder. I found surface rather pitted and textured feeling deter removing most the flaky rust. Getting to some nice metal shine but not total, will the ospho kill the cancer enough should I just move forward with standard repair? Is the bend big enough I should order a new frame (if they even have them I can order from FOT) or have it rebuilt?
Anyone have any advice on getting the remaining rivets out (I have good Cobalt bits but the stainless rivets just burn and eat the bits up.
Step has definitely been opened up before. Found small bend in frame and washers built up to make it fit fiberglass.
The same shop sandblasted mine and powder coated it glossy black. It was rusted worse than yours, however it was not as damaged as yours. I'd consider having an aluminum shop make a new one, posibly they will have scraps to reduce your cost if Foretravel does not have one out of steel.
How does the fiberglass shell attach to the metal part?
Thanks,
Trent
Mine was held together with calk and rivets. The rust was caused by calk leaking water into the interior and the drain holes filling and sealing off with rust. I resealed with 017-90916 Sikaflex-252, Black bought from Amazon and riveted it back together with aluminum rivets.
From following post, yes, glass bead instead of sand blast. Powder coat gloss black came out excellent. Following is finished picture. And yes my interior had about a cup of loose rust. I believe it is now sealed properly with the Sikaflex 252 black and will not leak again.
Would do what reply number 9 said but find a shop that can glass bead it,takes much less metal away.Try the rust bullet paint,much
better then rustoleum.If you have a Fastenal store near you try some higher quality bits and start with a small size and plenty of oil,
work your way up to a larger size.Another idea,ace hardware sells Acid Magic,get a gallon and immerse the metal in it,it will
dissolve the rust and leave metal,would be less expensive but more work.Had the same problem with electric grinder,if you have
air compressor the air die grinders do not get hot but suck up alot of air.
Cobalt tipped drill bits work better on stainless steel.
Infinity repaired mine. Now very firm.
TulsaTrent, it has SS pop rivets allthe way around, with predrilled holes for them in frame and that correspond to the fiberglass cover around the edges. Then there is windshield caulk sealing the edge all the way around. See Johnn44 comments. If you take yours apart, expect to find 1 cup or more of rust debris. I vacuumed mine out before taking pics.
I didn't know to use oil on the drill bit, as I'm a newbie and not very handy! Pierce and John44 have been enormous helps to me! I appreciate them and the rest of the forum so much! Good luck and let me know if I can help!
Yes sir, that is what I've been using, apparently I need to use a little oil on the bit. Thanks for the tip!
Can you just grind the rivets off with an angle grinder and then punch them out?
Rich
Little trick I learned when helping a contractor install Stainless steel guarding on one of my machines:
Vary (or pulse) your drill speed so as to not work harden the SS ahead of the drill point. This changes the feed per revolution so ultimately the proper feed rate and speed are obtained for your drill size and the grade of SS you are attempting to drill.
Not all cobalt bits are created equal,the big box stores are somewhere in the middle for quality.
I did try that until my new ryobi angle grinder start smoking and getting extremely hot. I'm taking it back for a Dewalt, I knew not to by the ryobi but the cheapskate in me won out. I was able to punch most of them out after grinding head off, and a couple came out with hammer taps.
Thanks for the tip Rich! Keep them coming, I will update this thread as progress continues
I have learned the hard way, this is true!
Your help and guidance has been instrumental David, thank you sir. I'll keep updating my progress in this thread. Since my frame is bent I'm likely going to consider having it rebuilt. Discount Steel is close by and they will do anything! Great people and products.
Just thinking,you could use the top angled pieces over again and just have them build the bottom using the old pieces.
That's a good idea. I'll let you know what they say, I'm gonna run over to Discount Steel at lunch.
I used inexpensive HF drill bits and then a punch on the pop rivets to drive the body out. I was thinking they were aluminum but they may be stainless.
I would try and straighten the step out and then use more steel if necessary to reinforce it. It's going to be difficult to build something to fit the Fiberglas shell unless you have a shop do it with the FG piece to work around. Once repaired, you can have a rubber or no slip mat over the top so it will look good.
For prospective buyers, finding a coach with as little corrosion or rust as possible is important as there are many places around the coach to keep you busy otherwise.
Pierce
When you're trying to drill out the rivets are they maybe spinning? That is a common problem when drilling them out.
Whack the head with a punch/hammer and drill at an angle. You don't have to worry about the hole as it will be drilled larger for the 1/4" tap.
Pierce
Sorry I did not see this sooner, had the same problem a few years ago, similar coaches. Foretravel had the metal part for the step at a reasonable price, which surprised me. Not sure if they still have them, and at a reasonable price, but call parts and find out.
Thanks for the latest replies, although my step frame is still useable, especially if I ospho it and paint it or get it powder coated it, i have decided to have a stainless steel step built.
It is only .04 oz heavier than the carbon steel per square foot. I paid the draftsman today and should have it by Friday or first part of next week. We are going to move the holes for the fiberglass cover in from the edges.
After I have the step frame back I will take it to the fiberglass shop and have a new mold and fiberglass piece made.
It may not be something everyone would do, but it's part of the feeding and care of my beloved coach. She deserves the best I can give her! I'll share pic once I have it. I will own the cad file after it's done and could help any of you who might be interested n getting one done too.
The biggest reason I'm doing it is mine was bent and rigged to work, so this will be back and better than factory.
Thanks Jerry, I'm so close to a great metal fabrication place, this will work out better for me, but I do appreciate your mentioning that possibility.
Thanks Piecre, that's exactly how I did it!
Drill bits used on stainless should be ground to 135 degree angle.
Drill pointing at 135 degrees decreases the chisel point of the drill. Why is this important? Because the point contact decreases, allowing quicker penetration at less force.
RPM (rotations per minute) remains the same but the chisel point SFM (surface feet per minute) is almost zero compared to the outside diameter of a drill.
A small center drill usually has the 135 deg point and a thinned web, along with a stepped dia larger than the end diameter. This aids penetration without hardening ahead of the drill. Center drills work great on sheet metal and/or thin metal.
Wow, thanks NiteHawk, Love learning stuff like this, retaining it now the challenge 😉