Recently I had a stop engine light come in. Mechanic reflashed ecm but did. It help. Finally he cleaned all harness connections and the light when away. Today, while driving the engine died. Tach and Speedo froze at moment it died. Transmission screen went blank. The parking break light came on when engine died. Stopped and key would do nothing. Pulled key out and sat for a couple minutes and engine restarted. Drive another 8 hours with no issues? Any idea what could have caused this? Check engine or stop engine never came on.
Jody
Computers sometimes need a reboot. Always have, pretty sure always will. Just my personal experience since 84.
My 320 has died several times usually after a long run when I come to a stop.
My tach doesn't work , Kindasuspect idle is set to low. Installing Silverleaf soon. Hopefully we'll be able to sort it out soon there after.
Jody,
Here is a link to a possible similar problem that you need to look over. Nothing happens when I turn the ignition switch (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27958.msg238802#msg238802) If you haven't read about the ignition solenoid on your coach this is some good info to look over.
With your age coach the ignition solenoid can start to fail. Most of the time it fails when you try to first start the engine. It can also fail if the coil starts to overheat and trip out just due to age.
Mike
If all gauges and Allison shift pad went dead at the same time the likely suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID. Could also be the ignition switch, but they are less problematic or even wiring between the two.
Start by troubleshooting the ignition solenoid. Two large lugs-- one from chassis battery, the other to everything that only works with ignition on. What are voltmeter readings on these when all is working (should show the same voltage on both and the same as at the chassis battery.
There will be either one or two small terminals/wires on the solenoid. If one, it is the hot/signal wire from the ignition switch. With ignition off, zero voltage between it an ground. With ignition on, should be same voltage (or within a few tenths) of chassis battery voltage. If only one small terminal, the solenoid is grounded through its body (to metal or wire from body to body ground). If two terminals, the second will be the ground.
Let us know what you find.
There are some more reliable replacements out there is this is the problem-- the one many of us use is speced for 1 million cycles and for 10X the amp load needed.
I would not troubleshoot the solenoid. I would replace it. They are cheap.
But, if it a loose wire at the ignition switch, etc, that will not solve the problem.
2 minutes with a voltmeter (they start at under $10) will give him the facts he needs.
I think it would be a good idea to test it and to replace it whether it's good or not. If you are driving one of these old coaches I think it is a good practice to replace the ignition switch and both start solenoids. You will drop maybe $150 for a Blue Sea or other high quality up front starter solenoid, another $60 or so for a Cole-Hersee for the back end start/boost solenoid and 20 bucks for an ignition switch and you'll never have to worry about these very common failure points again. Good luck. Hope it's the solenoid.
jor
Thanks everyone. I will check it out. Sounds like some replacement parts would be good insurance.
One more question. The starter solenoid wouldn't have anything to do with the coach dying....I was driving at 65 mph the last time it died. What about the fuel shut off solenoid?
My 97 coach died at 65 also. Once I jumped out ignition solenoid, starter and fuel shut off solenoid worked as normal till I got a new ignition solenoid installed.
The ignition solenoid will shut off the fuel.
In my manual for my 98 Dynasty the manual shows how to tie off the fuel solenoid if it burns out so you won't be stuck. My solenoid
the pull in part of the solenoid quit working so I would turn the key and manually pull the solenoid and then it would start up.
Make sure the solenoid coil is getting enough voltage to actuate and stay actuated. Clean all terminals and grounding with a wire brush. Remove all corrosion.
That's seemed to fix it. New ignition solenoid installed.thanks everyone.
You can tie that fuel solenoid open while you are running
If you buy one of these $10, voltmeter, do not use on 110v or higher voltages.. Manual or box may say it can be used at that voltage but I have see some serious injures to people when the voltmeter blows up or the wire melts when trying to test 120-240 voltages
BUT (yes, large but) if the ignition solenoid is not working, that is not a good solution, as the Allison ECU will NOT BE POWERED and the transmission will go into protect mode.
Better short term solution to bad ignition solenoid: There are two large lugs on the ignition solenoid. Label (important) and move the wire(s) from one side and add them to the other side. Electrically exactly the same as solenoid working and ignition turned on. To turn ignition/motor off merely remove the "added" wires and return them to their original position.