I have a double switch above the sink, installed in the cabinet. One switch goes to the puck lights over the sink, the other controls the flourescent fixture above the sink. The flourescent has been working fine, up until tonight. I unscrewed the switch plate and put a voltmeter on each switch. The puck lights had power and work fine. There was NO POWER at the flourescent switch !!???
I can't imagine why the power just stopped. Tomorrow, I will exchange the wires at the switch, to see if that is the problem. If it ISN'T the switch, where do I start to look?? If it IS the switch, where do I get a replacement....FOT?? Any thoughts.?? It's always something.........
Glenn, the puck lights are 12VDC, the fluorescent lights are 110VAC. Have you lost any other 110 V lighting or outlets? If so, check your GFIC to see if it has tripped.
If it is a simple on off switch I have many. They have a 1 and a 0 on them, on/off. Pretty rare for a switch for fail.
I am quite sure the flourescents over the sink are 12v. I don't know of any 120v interior lighting in a 2001 U320.
Check fuses at the base of the bed. If they are OK then try to follow the wiring back as far as possible and look for a bad connection. Power probably comes in from the refrig bay into the section above the microwave and across through the section above the light and into the side of the vertical overhead cabinet.
You could splice into the hot wire going to the other switch and use it to power the light over the sink. LED light fixtures or bulbs will reduce power in those circuits.
Roger, my bad, sorry bout that. Was thinking because of having a ballast they would be 110V.
I, too, thought about splicing into the working " hot " line. Thanks, guys. Just can't imagine how it failed all of a sudden. Been working great up until now. I'll do more testing tomorrow.
Some of the mid to late 90s had a 120v ceiling light fixture. It is a never ending challenge to remember which years, models and floor plans have what and where it is. I am surprised at the significant differences I have seen just in 2001 U320s. The more I look and see the more I learn.
Glen, most of those 12v circuits are fused at 15 amps. Good thing to have spares. You probably have a 12v circuit diagram that shows which circuits power which lights. These may be on the same circuit, if so then tapping into the other switches hot wire is OK. If not then add up the loads to make sure. Each of those halogen lights at 10 watts uses 0.8 amps. Not sure what the flourescents use.
Thanks, Roger. I changed out the halogens for led last year. I'll try and trace problem today. The flourescent DOES have a ballast. Can a 12v have a ballast??
Glenn,
Does that light fixture also turn on with a switch by the entry door? If so you may have a stuck/bad light relay. It (the relay) may be hid in the false floor of the cabinet above the micro.
Another thought:
The relay is what actually operates the light, the switch just shows the relay a ground so it will close and flow 12VDC to the light fixture.
A 3rd thought: The switch will be a momentary switch rather than just an on/off switch, if it is the light connected to the switch by the door. (as mentioned in thought #1)
Mike
no switch by the door
Just jump the known hot wires onto the (what you say) dead switch wires to give you 12V to the fluorescent. Remember your porch lite. Those long skinny bulbs need a solid connection.
That will tell you if it's the switch or not.
Glenn, all of your flourescents have balasts and are 12 v.
Many use relpacement 12v LED G4 base bulbs to replace halogens.
We were trying to change the brass look and used these very good replacement fixtures. Fit in the same holes, no screws, same wires.
Amazon.com: ITC (69231B-3K-DB) 3" Radiance LED Overhead Light/Spring Mount:... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISLQX18/ref=pe_388710_286463930_em_1p_0_ti)
There is a 4.5 inch version too. Put one inder the taller vertical kitchen cabinet for counter lighting. I replaced the over the sink flourescent with 2 4.5 inch LED fixtures.
When you are ready all of your flourescents can be replaced with LED strips.
LED Replacement for Fluorescent and Puck Lights (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27338.msg228073#msg228073)
I have checked fuse. OK.
I exchanged wires on duplex switch. Switch is OK
I checked, and there is "hot" to the flourescent. I Believe the problem is with the light (s), ballast or fixture. I tried to test the fixture to see if it is getting 12v, but didn't get a reading when I touched both ends where the bulb goes. I am going to drop the fixture to check incoming power, and would be VERY happy to change it to LED. We LOVE LED. Getting closer.
OK
Got power to fixture!!! Yeah!!
So......it's the ballast?
Doesn't look replaceable?
I'll change to LED
Remember your porch light. I doubt it's the ballast. Bend the ends where the bulb slides in out. Huh? Where the bulb slides in.....bend those prongs out slightly to make a better connection. Both ends.
Also....if one bulb is out, the other will not lite.
I probably still have some of those ballasts somewhere, they are available but not worth the effort.
We have had problems recently with that fluorescent over the sink too. Remove the cover, fiddled with the bulbs and it worked. Now it is intermittent. I just tap on the cover a few times and it comes on. I know I should fix it and I will ............
Will try Twig's idea.
Dick
Umm, this may be a stretch, but have you replaced the bulbs? Our heavy use fixtures do the same as all have described, which, we've learned, is a sign that the bulbs are about to fail. ::)
Yes, Twig...It WAS bulb related. I did not know that if one bulb was out, the fixture wouldn't work. I still will be changing out to LED. I think I found reasonably priced bulbs on ebay, and will give them a try. I don't know how to test a bulb to see if it's good.
Take the guts out and use LED strips. Much cheaper than a pair of LED replacement bulbs. And dimmable.