Finishing up my rear 6 pack the other day (thanks again Chuck for putting that deal together) and noticed a cover for the driveshaft spline was down around the driveshaft. See pics.
Today I checked it out. Raised the coach to full height, put safety stands in place, and creepered underneath to check it out. The threaded cover is obviously a cover for the rear driveshaft spline to u-joint. I tried to screw it back into place and found there was too big of a gap between the splines and the threaded portion on the u-joint. Since the coach was at full height the splines were at maximum exposure. At a lower height I believe the cover would have just screwed on but the next time I airbag the rear to max height it's just going to pull off.
Anyone know anything about this? Is there fix? Your wisdom is humbly requested.
I tried search but must not be using the correct key words.
see ya
ken
My 1995 270 extending driveshaft does not look yours. But I would say you have a problem. Kinda also glad to see the cut-away cross frame. I always thought that my cross frame, which looks the same as yours, was just only an "adjustment" that Foretravel did to my frame give room for the driveshaft.
It looks like it is threaded. I would clean it all up and see if it does screw on.
Keith
It is a dust cover it screws on of snaps on. Take a little emery paper to the shaft surface lube the shaft good and reinstall it. Then lube the splines good through the grease fitting. Even if it doesn't stay it's not a stop the show deal.
Ken,
I had the same situation a couple of years when I had my transmission worked on. I noticed the cover off was like yours and wondered how that could happen. I just spoke with Ken Williamson at AL-Trans Service in Mobile about it. He told me because its made out of rubber and flexing of the shaft can work it off over time. They just cleaned it up and screwed it back on. I guess it needs to be checked periodically. I'll go check mine and see if it's off again!
Jerry
And while you are looking at it, grease ALL the Zerk (Oskar Zerkowitz) fittings on the U joints. Take a strong flashlight to find all of them. You may have to move the coach to get a gun in position. There probably is another further along towards the splines. The red stuff works well and has replaced the black moly for most applications.
Pierce
Ken,
What does it look like when the coach is at ride height? Are the splines hidden and can the dust cover be fully screwed on?
Here's what we need;
Coach is due for a lube job anyway. Will have them put it back on while doing the lube. I don't really want to go under the coach without my safety stands in place. ie: at ride height.
I was able to get a picture thru D5. I blew out the exposure to get a little more detail. This picture is at less than ride height.
Edit: Forgot to say thinks for all the suggestions/advise. I would have cashed out a long time ago if it wasn't for you guys! :)
see ya
ken
Mine stayed connected at the full raised position. Look for something allowing too much travel. Reply # 6
Ride height question (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30983.msg271429#msg271429)
I would have to second what "Craneman" wrote. There should not be that much travel while raising the coach. Did you have new (taller) air bags installed?
While on the subject, it might be useful to talk about the "splines and grooves" for those who aren't familiar. These allow for some motion between the transmission output shaft and the axle which is constantly moving up and down in relation to the transmission while a vehicle is under way. If you were to pull the rear axle away, the drive shaft would drop to the ground. As with all metal parts that are in contact and move, they require lubrication. When you grease the chassis, a couple of pumps is all that is needed on the driveshaft Zerk. If you are waiting for grease to emerge somewhere, you will push the grease cover or seal off.
I don't trust an inexperienced "grease monkey" (the junior guy in a garage who is often relegated to this messy job) to grease my coach; there are too many things that could go wrong - wrong grease (especially where brake needs clay based type), skipping Zerks, too much grease (blowing out grease boots), not wiping off Zerk, etc. I use a compressed air grease gun with a flexible shaft before every trip (on fire engines, it was monthly). It isn't a difficult job, but always messy. Last thing - always clean off Zerk before greasing.
You can say that again! I always enjoy having greased the coach but I hate doing it. I usually have five or six rags that go directly into the can afterwards. Can't imagine doing it before every trip, Sven. More power to you!
jor
Ken,
Didn't you install new trailing arm/ torque tube bushings a couple of years ago?
I am like cman as to something isn't right compared to other coaches I've seen. I just want to eliminate some possibilities.
Mike
You could install one of these and grease all the stationary points from one . You would still have to crawl to do the driveshaft though.
http://www.lincolnindustrial.com/Catalogs/Uploaded/Catalog_111/Kits.pdf
There are 4......however, there are really only 2. Depends on how the driveshaft stops. One upper and one lower are the same thing. Reach whichever is easiest.
Jor, I should have said every season, but that is usually one long trip.
Twig is right about the universal joint Zerks. There are two that fill the same cavity and one is easier to reach.
Now you tell me! I never knew that. I have really gone through some contortions trying to get the top one! Great tip. Thanks.
jor
;D
Good memory Mike. I had the bushings installed in the original torque tubes except two adjustable torque tubes were custom made to enable easily adjusting the rear axle alignment. The new tubes where adjusted 1/32" to align the rear axle.
Air bags were replaced about 5 years ago at FOT.
I don't know that raising the coach pulled off the seal. That was speculation on my part. It's equally likely that it wasn't secured as well as it should be. I may get some 6" safety stands made so I can work in there not at full height and try to clean the threads and reinstall with some Lock-Tite.
I do remember Wayne at FOT was doing some other work for me and noticed the drive shaft was installed backwards. He said he switched it back like it should be. That was about 4 years ago. That's the last time I know of anyone has touched the drive shaft. My wild ass guess is that the PO had it towed and the tow driver pulled the drive axle and the shop reinstalled it backwards. I didn't even know there was a correct direction.
Since several of you are suggesting I do my own lubing I need some technical advice. What recommended equipment, how do I know enough is enough, Barry posted about not introducing air between squeezes, do I just crawl around hitting every Zerk that's not on a brake caliper, how about syn grease, and any tips besides wearing old clothes. :) Also there is a ton of squeezed out grease there now. Just clean with a rag or do I use solvent. Since it's my thread let take this baby right off the rails.
see ya
ken
Hey Ken, no need to grease until grease is running out of everything. The grease on the outside only makes a mess. I grease mine every 6 mos. I grease until fresh grease comes out then wipe off the excess. On the slip yoke a half a dozen shots with the grease gun will do it no need to over grease. A good lithium base grease is all you need or synthetic if you choose. I lube the brake calipers every 24 mos, but that's another issue. No need to worry about getting air in anything as grease is way heavier than air. Have fun😎
I would add that wipe off excess grease, which is easy to do. Old grease will be coved with road grime, so it isn't as messy as a new glob. No need to use a solvent or polish anything; you're just trying to keep it from dropping off where you don't want it and away from the brake rotors. It would be best if you know someone who does it and offer to "help". I prefer the air actuated grease gun, since I don't need two hands to pump it, when I have to hold the nozzle on the Zerk.
These grease guns work great if you need to do a lot of greasing.
http://www.lincolnindustrial.com/Catalogs/Uploaded/Catalog_111/Kits.pdf
Ken how many miles are you traveling a year? Greasing about 6 -10k miles is sufficient. If you are under that once a year or when ever you change your oil. I grease my Semi Chassis every 7k and change oil and filters at 15k and grease chassis again. But I am running about 2200-2400 miles a week. jmo 8)
Finally got to a place I could get under the coach in a level position and reattach the spline grease sleeve. Risked my life and crawled under the coach to get to it at ride height. At ride height the driveshaft splines were barely showing. Cleaned the threads on both the shaft and the seal as best I could and it screwed on nice and easy. I thought about using some lock-tite on the threads but decided just to put it on and keep an eye on it. Tightened by hand as much as I could then used a rubber strap tool from Horror Fright and got a few more turns. I don't think it's going anywhere. Time will tell. Luckily I have easy line of sight through D5.
About to order a grease gun and leaning towards a pneumatic one. Amazon has this one from Lincoln for $70 bucks.
Amazon.com: Lincoln 1162 Air Operated Grease Gun: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019COQ6C)
Ebay has a bunch for about $20. My usage will only be a couple of times a year and for $40 bucks I could get 2. One for coach grease and one for brake grease. Would save the trouble of changing grease.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
see ya
ken
I use a grease gun from harbor freight. The pistol grip for one handed operation with a flex hose. Grease, clean gun back in the box , no open tubes of grease around here. Grease being grease it gets on anything near it. Safe travels. 😎
Well done, Ken! Are you sure you have any room left for a grease gun ? ::) ^.^d
That could be a challenge. :)
see ya
ken
Check the grease gun pressures. As I remember, there are a couple fittings up front that take a lot of pressure to force the grease in. The air guns are great but I think some of the hand operated guns can generate more pressure.
Year after year, HF stuff gets better and better. Their $19 "sawzall" with the twist to remove the blade is outstanding. I have the real deal but use the HF version most of the time. 4x24" belt sander abrasives are also a good deal as are rolls of DA disks.
Pierce
Have never had any trouble getting grease into all zirks with just a good quality 40 year old manual grease gun.
Kingpin zerks starting with old VW buses. I've even heated them with a torch.
Pierce
I like the 2 grease gun idea!
Ken, glad you got the spline cover back on... Good job.
We carry two separate grease guns and use long flexible hoses so manual gun can lay on ground, while I press handle down against ground with one hand and hold hose on fitting with other hand.
How long are your hoses? The ones I've seen are only 14" or so. Seems like you would need about a 3' one to reach from the ground to the highest zerk fitting.
see ya
ken
DeWalt has a lit ion grease gun about $160, i can pump alot alot of grease every year for that, plus it's bulky. $70 Lincoln pnuematic is much more compact and has 30" hose now your in my price range.
Here you go....
OEMTOOLS 25804 36 Inch Heavy Duty Grease Hose - Air Tool Hoses - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25804-Inch-Heavy-Grease/dp/B004FDJCVG)
To extend grease gun hoses, I use several of the only size I find, which pretty normal, THEN connect them together with a short brass 1/8" NPT female/female coupler.