Did the search , nothing. How do I get a look at the top of my fresh tank? I fill it up and 25% run back out down to about 50 gallons. MY new Daughter In law used all 50 gallons in two days. I would like a look at the top of the tank to see why it leaks at full. Thanks. MM
I'm not completely understanding where you're saying the water is going. Is it literally leaking out of the tank and into your basement and onto the ground? Or draining into your grey/black tanks? Either way, at least on my coach, there's no easy way to clearly see the full length of the top of the tank without removing it. But what your suggesting sounds more like a crack in the side of the tank, not the top. Again, no easy way to see that from the outside without removing the tank. Alternatively, you might be able to inspect it from the inside by draining and using a flexible inspection camera through the water supply or drain/overflow connections.
Vividia 9mm Portable Digital Flexible Inspection Camera with 2.4" LCD... (https://www.amazon.com/Vividia-Portable-Digital-Flexible-Inspection/dp/B00AIFSSUG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1528128267&sr=8-5&keywords=flex+camera)
If your tank is located like it is in a 93, can't you open up the floor there? Can't remember exactly what it looked like though. Here's the setup on a 93 with the arrow pointing to the tank and the second photo showing the overflow which exits in front of the firewall.
jor
My tank water runs onto the ground when full , down about 10 -20 gallons. right behind the front axle .
My tank is mounted between the front seats, under the dash. But great idea.I have one of those cameras for auto work. Thanks,
You guys experiencing that issue-- is it coming out the vent hose (jor's right picture) or where???
Not out the vent/,overflow . Runs down the side of the tank as far as Ican tell . The bottom fittings are dry. Inside is dry .
I tried the camera but lack of control once inside reduces the results to useless.
Iwill remove the vent cover plate and have a look , but my estimate is that the leak is under that level.
Hopefully, from a cracked hose, but could be a cracked tank. Have not run into that one, as the tank is pretty well protected physically and the diameter of the vent hose/outlet makes cracking from overfilling (hydraulic pressure) really unlikely.
To remove the cover over the top of the tank right ahead of the door that you raise to fill the tank there are 4 screws holding that flat piece in and then you can pick it up. After that is removed if I remember correctly, you can slide the upper box back and lift up to expose the tank. There could be several screws holding that upper part, but can't remember as it has been quite a few years since I removed one. You can call me 813-215-3463 if you can't figure it out, but I bet you can.
Thanks Red,
Removed the dog house per above, found old roofing goo on the center/ totop corner. Removed the tank , will grind a bit and use some plastic fuel tank repair epoxy And consider a visual fill indicator.
FWIW it does not fit out the door easily. As in it doesnt. Maybe If I remove the step hand rail it should fit@ 23in OL
Yes, it fits out without the handrail .
Mike,
So, what was the source of the leak? Hose? crack in seam? Other?
Crack at the point where the top meets the fat bottom .
Would it be wise to stop crack drill the ends of the crack?
Mike,
If you get a chance take some photos. It would be great to see how the tank fits in there and how the repair goes. Thanks.
jor
Will next week . ON the road and away from my main computer.
I drilled the 1.5 in crack multiple times down the length to remove the roof goo. Scraped out the rest with small knife. Scraped some donor filler from along the top side edges. Lit my soldering gun and smushed it all back together while stuffing the molten plastic goo into the crack/holes. It still looked a little thin so looked around for more compatible filler. The best turned out to be a piece of coolant jug, melted that into the goo pile and smoothed it into the crack area, with the soldering iron and knife.
Tried a little air pressure and it passed, tipped on the side , added water and it passed, albeit with low water head . Friend says lets run down to NAPA and get some epoxy just for good measure. Covered the patch area with plastic repair glue.
I will paint the wood under the tank and drill a few escape holes. Should be back in action Wed.
https://www.facebook.com/ogrenengineering/photos/a.2051630988211580.1073741829.635304466510913/2051631418211537/?type=3&theater
Here are a few pics. They are FB hosted. If anyone wants them directly , email me. I dont see how to post them here today for some reason even tho I have posted one directly here prior. Hey, I,m old ish .
I added some 3/8in high density foam sourced from Harbor freight under the tank hoping to shake it less violently on crappy roads. The wall thicness is not thic at all and it balloons up a good bit just blowing air into the open ports.
I measured the frame section that supports the tank. Only the outer 1.5 in or less is supported by the steel, the center is only held up by the ply wood. Some quick math says 500 - 650 # sit here. I will pull the tank next fall when back at the shop and rebuild the support area. If it falls very far, it will pinch some harnesses that run around the lower edge of the tank /frame rail .
I looked around for solutions to solve the basic math problem of 80 gals of fresh water and two tanks of 44 gal each. The solution must be to connect the waste tanks together? Adding a third valve at the end would allow mixing the tanks. Wont this lead to bad smell from the gray lines? Is this a common solution? Thanks as always, MM
FWIW a micro torch may be the best heat source for welding the crack. I dont have one and you tube showed good result withe electric gun.
On posting pics on the forum, click "preview" at bottom of post. Then you can click on photos to load.