Can someone tell the type and size of the hydraulic hose to the side radiator. Also the type and size connector. This would be for a 95 U320. Would like to make a couple of spares. Mine are getting old. Thanks
Joe,
The fittings may be different and the lengths are so best to remove a hose and have a shop make a duplicate up. The fittings take a 1" wrench or in some cases, 1 1/16". A "crows foot" is handy to break the fitting loose. After that, they turn easily with your fingers. Our hoses have only a single braided steel layer so should never be installed in a position where they touch each other. Or, they have to be securely fastened to each other with something between so there is no possibility of chafing. A single layer hose is going to cost about $60 depending on the length. Cheaper if you measure and order online.
It's possible to make your own hoses using reusable fittings. I did this on my tractor and race car. You would need a high speed resin disk to cut the hose to length and all residue must be removed from the inside of the hose. A hack saw WON'T work. All hydraulic hose fittings are cheap. You can also make up (or have made) double layer hose. It's super tough, takes abrasion well but is less flexible. Probably not much of a factor in our coach installations.
Don't forget to carry oil on board as when a hose lets go, all the oil is gone in a few seconds.
Pierce
Joe. It is better to just change them at home if they are looking weak. Not a pleasant job to do on the road. It is messy and takes having enough extra oil on board,
If changing, as suggested drain system and take to a hydraulic shop for duplication. Make sure the new hoses are rated for the oil AND PRESSURE you need.
And, be sure to change the filters at the same time, as you need to drain the reservoir to properly change the filters anyway.
BTW, have seen very few failed hydraulic hoses over the years.
Our coach (from the same vintage) got the hydraulic motors rebuilt a couple of weeks ago in NAC at Berndt's Place. I was thinking about replacing the hoses, too. He quoted Brett, mentioning he had seen very few hydraulic hose failures.
We proceeded to replace the radiator "hoses" and left the original hydraulic hoses in place.
About the only time the OEM hoses will fail is if they rub against each other. This is what happened to us on our xcountry trip. Entirely my fault with a poor pre-flight. Replacing the lines was easy but getting the oil off the toad was very time consuming.
I've never replaced any engine coolant hoses and never had a failure. One our our 300SDs has 450,000 on the clock with all OEM hoses. Our U300 uses silicone hoses everywhere. They last forever. One is only an inch from the hot side of the turbo but seems to enjoy it.
Pierce
Thanks for the advice. I think what I will first do is crawl under to see if any are rubbing next to each other. If so I will replace at home like Craneman suggests. If I see no rubbing then I will visually inspection as best I can, and if I see no sign of leakage. I will leave alone. It is a dirty job.
If there are any points of contact, particularly if between things that are fixed to chassis/connected to the engine, gusset the point of contact.
I always keep old used hoses around to cut up to use for this purpose.