Today I did what many others have done, install a direct fill for the fresh water tank, so I don't have to go inside and fiddle with the valve under the bathroom sink. Similar to what is on Beamalarm.com. by Barry Leavitt. One side has a pressure connection and shutoff valve of 1/2" pvc and a quick connect/disconnect fitting; the other side uses 1.5"pvc and fittings and has a cap so that I can just stick a hose in for filling. I used a 1.5" rubber tank grommet that I ordered from PPL RV Parts $6.99. and a swivel style hose coupler from Swivel Style Hose Coupler [9.154-009.0] for Karcher Lawn Equipment |... (https://www.ereplacementparts.com/swivel-style-hose-coupler-p-483971.html?osCsid=063takq2gjp63vmdt4mbh8cco7) $3.08 This part was really for a Karcher pressure washer, but one side has pipe threads. The rest of the PVC stuff I bought at Lowes. The grey clamps are in electrical in a pack of 5. The rubber grommet size is for the PVC pipe, the hole in the tank is 2.25". The wall of the tank is 1/4" thick. I was worried that the disk might fall into the tank, but it stayed in the hole saw I used and did not come out easily. Getting the grommet installed requires a bit of bending, pushing and shoving with fingers and finally with the rounded handle end of a small spatula to get the inner flange in place. I had some trouble getting the crossover pipe the right length (re the 3 couplings) but doing it again I would not need a coupling. 1. Drill the hole. 2 install the big pipe with out a 1/2" cross over pipe. 3. make a mounting block of the correct thickness, paint, and fasten in place. 4. Assemble the pressure coupler side and mount on a block of painted wood (I carved out some of the wood for the valve so the clamps could reach the block). 5. Hold the pressure coupler side in place and measure for the crossover pipe. 6. Cement one end of crossover pipe to the big pipe Tee (this pipe can rotate in the clamps). 7. With the crossover pipe angled down cement to the 90 elbow and quickly move into position (practice without cementing 1st). 8. Fasten the pressure side block in place with screws. About $45 total including tax and $17.42 shipping. edit: I rotated the first picture so the big pipe is on the right, but it didn't rotate in the post.
Jerry, got to ask. Did or do you have a breather tube on the tank?
When I added a fill tube/"Y" to the overflow on our fresh water tank, up front, I would have to stop filling and let the air exit the tank. If I didn't the tank would "burp" out quite a bit of water until air pressure was relieved.
My "burp" tube is nothing more than an old rubber hand held shower head. Keeps bugs out and lets air in or out.
Nice!!
I have a couple of questions. 1st you said the tank grommet was for a 1 1/2 pipe but you had to drill a 2.25" hole, is that how much bigger the grommet was and does the big pipe just fit snugly and that is all that holds it? also why does the small pipe go into the big pipe before going into the tank? why didn't you just have the small pipe go into the tank? this filler is located in the same compartment as our hose reel is located now? How and where does the pipe overflow when full? sorry for all of the questions. I like the idea I'm just trying to get it all in my head..
keith
I rigged up my quick fill connection like you are asking - just a 1/2" pipe directly into the water tank. Simpler than Jerry's...but his is more versatile.
What did you do to your coach today VII (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33153.msg301076#msg301076)
I am hesitant to drill a hole in any tank. Non replaceable part.
I changed my vent tube to plastic and fill through it.
I just bought a 270 and there is quiet a learning curve.. On my 280 I had direct access to a fill port that I simply put a garden hose and viewed the filling right thru the end of the clear tank.. never any over fill therefore zero water spilled in the bay.. When the 270 tank reaches full I understand that you will see it come out the overflow or you can watch the monitor and stop it at 3/4 full... My question is if it does come out the over fill is there any danger of ANY water getting in the bay.. I apologize for the hijack but while you guys are on the subject.
Yea, lots of danger. It's a terrible design. Your 270, like mine, probably has the goofy ball valve under the bathroom sink which is another nutty idea in my opinion. Anyhow, I think the best way to overcome both is to do a direct fill mod and expose the tank so you can see how full it is. I fill mine almost to the top without sending any water out the overflow.
Also, another good practice is to redirect the overfill hose down through the floor of the compartment. Lots of posts on both projects.
jor
I think it just has an air vent which allows water to spill out if overfilled. Tank is almost full and vehicle in storage, so I haven't filled if yet using what I made.
I remember being shocked at how the overflow is currently (not) handled. Unfortunately, that location is hard to reach; any suggestions?
Trent
About the size of the pipe and the hole for the grommet. Measured the 1.5" pvc pipe, the OD is 1 15/16" almost 2" the ID is 1.5. That had to rattle around in my brain for awhile before it came out.
Finally took a trip and got to use the new fill. Very pleased with it, the tank fills much faster, like 1/3 to 1/4 the time it takes using the city water connection, and I don't have to go inside and mess with the fill valve and turn the pump on and off. Easy to see the water level as new water splashes a bit inside the tank.
Great upgrade, Jerry. I always wondered what possessed Foretravel to locate that ball valve in such an inconvenient place.
jor
Questions from someone in the learning process. First, why do you need pressure relief outlet as long as you let air escape past hose used to fill tank? Second why can't you open a faucet(s) while filling to let air escape same as you wood when filling hot water tank? Third, if relief valve is a must, why not elbo off the fill pipe, running it up along side rather than running it to the opposite wall then up? Speaking from 1998 270, 36 footer.
When you fill the fresh the fresh water tank any excess air will escape out the overflow hose. It also lets air in as you use water from the tank. Most direct fill adaptations have a hose connection. You don't just stick the hose through a hole. Air will not come out through a faucet since all of that plumbing goes through the pump.
Fresh water holding tank electric valve! (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=36705.msg349883#msg349883)
So I assume there is already a pressure relief valve in the factory installed system? So if I merely install an opening to fill tank with hose, I don't need to add another one??
I don't think there is an actual pressure relief valve in the overflow pipe. It comes out of the highest point on the side or top of the tank and then goes up to the ceiling of the bay and then out through the back bulkhead (in mine, others may be different. Air has to get in to get water out of the tank and get out as the tank is filled.
I just re plumbed my overflow vent and there was not a relief valve in the line--just 1-1/4 inch open line to back wall
Chris
Don't want to harp on this point, but during filling through a hole on the tank air should escape in the same way it does when filling the factory installed connection? What am I missing?
Reply # 5 is the only one not venting through the same overflow as factory.