So when I installed the Pioneer head unit the po left, the power wire was not connected to the ignition switch as required and the head unit got real warm. I have since went back and forth on a 12 volt vs 120 volt sound system in the coach and have decided to do both, eventually. But for now I will install the 12v system. So my question is, what's the best way to tap into the ignition switch, or do I really need to do that? Also need to tap into the right turn signal for a camera. Anyone know of the best way to do that. Under the dash it's just a maze of white wires.
I ordered a pioneer 5 channel amp which I will plug into the house batteries with a turn on wire from the head unit. This will power 4 component speakers and a sub. All new speaker wire, new power wire and fuse.
Speaking of white wires, the fuse/breaker panel on the passenger side, is powered by the coach batteries, correct? Some of these are powered, some are not. Not sure why. What exactly are these? Don't seem to be a fuse, or a circuit breaker as there is not way to reset it.
Also have a question about the item labeled "transmitter 3 unp" Any clue what this is? Has a wire dangling from it like a antenna.
Thanks for your time and knowledge.
Bob
Bob,
1. Some of the busses are fed from coach house batteries some are fed from starting batteries.
2. Depends on what needs power when the ignition switch is on or when it is off.
3. Some are self resetting fuses, some are relays, and the 2 black boxes at the center of the bottom of the panel are your ignition solenoids . Your coach is new enough to have the new solid state style that the load is split through 2 rather than just one. The 2 little blue cubes that are hanging by there wires are your turn signal and your emergency 4 way flasher relays.
4. See # 3.
5. The breakers that are located in the basement behind the white safety cover panel are manual reset with a button on those.
6. If your coach has the door lock/ security system seems like that may be what the "transmitter 3 unp" box was for. Not for sure about this though.
You need to get a copy of a B-2197 print for your coach as it has all the info on this breaker panel. This is a must to help with troublshooting. The basement breakers are on B-2126 also a good thing to round up.
Mike
1. In-dash head units normally require 2 sources of 12 volt power. One is "always hot" - to retain memory settings and power the clock. The other is "hot with ignition switch ON (or in accessory position)" - to turn on the unit on. You don't have to actually hook the leads directly to the ignition switch - you just need to find a source for the appropriate power. There should be both power types available on the panel in your photo. Easy to determine what is what using a multimeter or a simple 12 volt test light.
2. Easiest place to find the power going to turn signals is the wire harness right behind the actual turn signal bulbs. Where does the camera mount? You have turn signal repeater lights on your rear view mirror bases and on the side of the coach. Tap into the wires going to the light bulb closest to the camera.
Duh... didn't think of the turn signal as the actuator for the passenger side camera ! :-[ Camera will be right next to it. ;D
The pioneer states that the head unit requires hooking up to the ignition switch power. Do you know why that is? I assume its to keep the battery from drawing down, but a simple switch should cover that. Also wonder if it would be better to connect to the house bank to power it, that way I can use it without powering up the other circuits when not moving.? I used the same power leads the old stereo used. But neither was connected to ignition. They were always on.
Also the amp I am using at 2000 watts max seems a bit much for the chassis batteries. So will be connecting to the house batt with a lead from the head unit to turn it on when the head unit comes on.
Bob
Thanks Mike. Didn't know they had self resettable breakers. I figured it was a CB of some type.
Not sure about the door lock/security feature. PO didn't mention it. Don't think it works anymore. Will have to look into it.
Bob
Here is our12V bus on our U300. The house batteries are on the left side and you can see toward the bottom where I tied into the bus with our solar system. You might disconnect the engine batteries and put a test light on the top three to make sure which is house/coach on your model. The middle is also house/coach on ours. Check your 12V schematic.
Pierce
Yes, I think that is the intent. Keeps you from turning the radio on without a key in the ignition, and hopefully saves you from a dead start battery.
However, it's your coach and your radio. You can hook the power lead up to whatever source you desire. If you want to be able to play the radio without using the key, hook it to a "always hot" power source. You can run it off the house battery bank, or the start battery bank, depending on what power connection point you choose. Do what makes you happy.
I have our coach head unit wired to "always hot". It is a Blaupunkt unit, and it has a nice feature to prevent the "dead battery" problem. If I turn it on
without the ignition key in RUN position, it will only play for one hour, and then it automatically shuts off. If the ignition key is in RUN position, then it will play without interruption until I either turn it off, or I shut down the engine.
Agree. If you want to be able to use the radio when parked, hook both memory and "run" hots to the house battery bank.
You definitely don't want to have to turn on the ignition to power the radio while parked. Would really pile up the hours on the engine hour meter.
I just hooked the last radio to the always hot side of the ignition solenoid. It would have to run for days to run the three 31 series engine batteries down. Have not forgotten yet.
Piece
The newest radios require a separate 12v supply. If you hook them both to a hot wire the radios don't work. I had to add a toggle switch to the dash to solve the problem. It is a lighted switch to remind me to shut down.
Hi Bob, The dangling antenna on ours was from the RF unit for the auto door locks. Not all of ours worked when we got coach. Had several bad actuators on the storage bay latches. No biggie to replaced them and upgrade to a newer RF unit with new key fob remotes. Nice having the feature but not perfect because they don't operate the door latch. Only the deadbolt and the storage bays have automatic locks on our U270. Not sure if this is normal, could be because my second door for wheelchair lift also has deadbolt on auto lock. I believe the OEM RF unit only had two channels. So does our replacement.
You probably don't need em. I do. Can't reach the deadbolt lock with key. Use the remote a lot.
Hope you can get wiring diagrams from FT. All our white wires have numbers on stamped them and they are keyed to the diagrams. Hope yours do too.
Wouldn't hooking the camera to the wires at the turn signal light cause camera issues as the wire to the light is alternating on and off power?
Probably tapping into line between turn signal lever and turn signal relay, [blinker] would give you steady power for camera when turning, think it would be easier.
The Pioneer head unit has a input for a camera that can be used as a rear or side cam. I am thinking of using it for a dedicated passenger side cam that would turn on with the right turn signal on. The power signal would signal the unit to switch to the camera mode.
I did hook up the unit to a ignition on area of the 12v buss. The other always on came from the previous stereo, to power the clock and memory. I can easily swap it to a always on buss if needed. The amp will be wired to the house bank with a large fuse and wire. Will post pics when finished. Thanks for all your ideas. Much appreciated.
Bob
Mike I suspected that what it was. The wires from the coach to the door are broken, so I suspect that's why it doesn't work. I don't have the key fobs either. Some of the bays lock automatically, some don't. Will have to research this. Would like to be able to unlock the doors and lock with a fob.
Bob
I too installed a Pioneer with a camera input. It has a touch screen with a touch camera input button.
I just wired the camera on with ignition so side camera is alway on, radio, cd, work fine with camera on.
I have a separate back up camera and screen though.
My plan as well with a separate backup cam. Not sure if I want the side cam on all the time or not. But I do want it to come on with the turn signal.
Bob use the side light too control a relay that turns the side camera on I believe you would still have to run another hot to power the camera once the relay was energized
chris