If Im hooked to a traditional house outlet with the proper adapter will there be sufficient current to keep house and cranking batteries charged using only inverter/charger and no other loads and ignoring solar (say garaging)? Will propane refrig run on AC in addition to inverter/charger if not taken out of Auto mode and forced to propane?
Thanks
Randy, Where I used to store my coach I had 15/20amp service and ran the inverter/charger and the fridge on 120volt for months at a time. I never went in with badly discharged batteries so the charger never had to work very hard.
Yes I keep mine plugged into a outside outlet. I keep the original dometic fridge running on a/c. Batteries stay charged etc. You can run all your 12v things like lights etc. I have used my microwave to make popcorn or bean dip a time or two. I can watch tv
We plug in to a 20 amp outside receptacle for days at a time when we are loading/unloading for a trip. If the batteries are mostly charged and the inverter/charger is lightly loaded, we even run one of the AC's without any problems.
When "Oldfaithful" is in her shed............ we leave it plugged in to a 15 amp receptacle for keeping batteries charged.
One day I'll get around to installing a 30 or 50 amp circuit out at "the shed".
Most of the campgrounds in the Yukon only have that power,works fine.
Randy,
The answer is YES 15 amps will keep batteries charged and refrigerator working on 120 VAC and a few other small things running.
BUT, a very good idea to limit the charging amps that your inverter/charger can use. Larger inverter/chargers, along with a deeply discharged battery bank can overload the house-type line. Not necessarily exceeding 15 amps, but drawing down voltage if house wiring is not of adequate size.
This "limiting" is called different things on different inverter/chargers, but most refer to it as power share or power save. A setting of 5 amps (that is 5 amps of 120 VAC) is a good choice and will provide up to around 50 amps charge to the batteries. Well more than needed to both charge and then maintain them.
it's also best to use your 30 or 50 amp cord with a proper adapter and not a standard extension cord. If you use a "drop cord" make sure its a #12 conductor and the shorter the better. 20 or 25 ft. Personally I wouldn't use over a 50'. Also a good idea to check the actual voltage at the coach to insure voltage drop is not a problem. 110 to 130 volts and your OK
Thanks to all.
Brett, I saw those settings on inverter previously and wondered their application. "AC in breaker" on our Xantrex.
The power share/power save feature was specifically designed to do what you want-- allow use of 15 amp shore power to keep batteries charged without overloading the circuit.
I bought a #10 x 25 foot extension cord from HF a couple of years ago. It has a light in the triple tap so you can tell if it's on. The 25 footer is $39 with 50 and 100 foot cords also available. If plugged into a 20 amp, it will supply one roof AC plus a few things like TVs OK.
Search results for: 'extension cord' (https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&p=2&q=extension+cord)
Pierce
Buy EasyStart™ Soft Starters Direct from the Manufacturer | Micro-Air, Inc. (https://www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters) If you have one of these, and use solar to keep you batteries up and run the fridge on propane, you can even run one ac on a good 15 amp circuit.
Keep in mind that most 'traditional house outlets' are on a circuit shared with other things in the house, like garage fridge, etc etc... Without managing the 'other' loads you will not likely do all you want, and do measure for voltage drop, often associated with some outlets. Running A/C seems like asking for trouble if voltage drop occurs, as motors can burn out.
On our coach, we can watch the voltmeter above the entry steps to make sure there is only a very minor voltage drop. Using too small of an extension cord causes the entire 110V system in the coach to shut off. Good to check house outlet after a few minutes as it can get hot.
Pierce
Barry, when I mentioned a "good 15 amp circuit", I meant a dedicated 15 amp circuit, just like the ones that a bigger 110 volt window ac unit would use. One receptacle on one breaker. If the voltage drops, it will be the electric company, and I can not do anything about that.
That's why it's important to keep a eye on your on-board volt meter. You can be running max and then everyone in the park fires-up: a dangerous $$$$ situation!
Agree, my coach came with this to protect against low voltage etc.Amazon.com: Surge Guard 35550 Hardwire Model - 50 Amp: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AASJHGO/ref=psdc_2504395011_t3_B01N9MOY7B)
I use two high quality RIGID extension cords if needed. One 12 gauge. The other 10 gauge. Both 100' plus a 50 amp extension cord made out of our coaches original wind up power cord. Least power drop to use the max size available for as long a distance possible
One note on using extension cords. The current rating is based on full exposure to the air. Running continuous high current through a coiled or even simply crossed cord is a good way to damage it. Spread it out an let it breath.
If the AC or strip heater is run for more than 10 minutes, the cord or outlet will begin melting. Low voltage will result, even with #10 wire. Ask how I know this.
You know what they say, if you have to ask, it's better to upgrade to a 220VAC, 50 Amp service.
Bob,
I'd go with Max size for SHORTEST possible distance.
Our main cord is reduced to a 20 amp standard plug end and connected to our regular garage plug .
We will run one air unit with fridge on "gas" setting with no ill effects.
The wiring in the garage is 12 gauge.
You will only charge the house batteries unless you install a Trik-L-Start or other batt maintainer.
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
Just make a double male lighter plug, wire to each other and install in respective lighter plugs on instrument panel and side panel. Has kept our batteries charged while at home or on the road if in one place for more than a week. Double dash digital voltmeters show the respective voltages. Always a bit over 13V. Conventional engine batteries, AGM house. No fuss, no complexity, just simple. Works well for the last 9 years.
Pierce
Ran 50a main power cord to 110 outlet with 50-30-110 adapters at outlet. Set Xantrex inverter/charger to limit to 10 amp input. With combiner both batteries being charged and ok with limited additional inside use. No need for AC or microwave. Progressive EMS shows typically less than 5 amps used and also protect undervoltage.
Jim, If you are running a new Romex cable to this dedicated outlet, why not run a larger size copper cable, like #10 or #8 or #6. This way you could upgrade outlet to 30 or 50 amp later, and also reduce voltage drop.
I do have a dedicated 30 amp circuit directly from the main breaker box. But sometimes I park the coach on the other side of the driveway [can not run a cable under it] so use a 50 ft 10 gauge extension cord plugged into a single 110 volt outlet in garage adapted up to the 50 amp coach cable, [assume this is fed by standard 12 gauge romex in the wall}.
Have checked voltage and amperage at coach and see 14 amps and 114 volts. Did check all wiring and connections with ir gun and no warm spots so, am not too worried. Not sure how Microair easy start works, but watching amprobe when you turn on ac, amps go to 3[fan only] then slowly up to 14, with no jumps or spikes. Wiring and breaker is rated for 20 amps, so believe I am within limits.
Interesting Jim, how much was the soft starter? Inverters are getting cheaper and now about the same price as a magnetic motor starter.
I got the enclosed unit [basically cut and wire nut 4 or 5 wires ] with discount paid $280 shipped. The board unit, which requires mounting and a bit more wiring, is about $160. Appears to do the same thing as an inverter starter but uses a different method.
Check breakers on a circuit to see what it is rated for. A 120 v 15 amp circuit will usually be wired with 14 ga wire. A 20 amp circuit will use 12 ga wire (now usually yellow cased Romex). The 20 amp receptacles in my shop are different from 15 amp ones.
BTW Northern Tool has 25' 10 ga. cords on clearance for $29