How hard would it be to pull the front Pulley's and swap the seals around the pulley's? I am having a little leaking around them and possibly the big sheet metal cover (face plate).
Has anyone done it and or have pics?. Looks like the front motormount needs removed and then the pulley's.. then the big metal face plate.. New seals and gasket on the plate... seems pretty easy.
Have done it many times on similar and bigger engines,if you remove the plate it should be easier,to replace the seal,would get
on the Cummins site and get a parts diagram and have all the parts first,it might just be the seal leaking,also are you sure you
don't have excessive crankcase pressure?
No I am not.. What would be the easiest way to test it..
Another question.
Rockers seemed a little loose.. Are they suppose to be at all? Dependent of where the piston is in rotation? If not I would think I am ready for a valve adjustment
The rockers always have some clearance on a solid lifter engine. The clearances for the ISM might be on the valve cover. If not, readily available with a Google search.
No I am not.. What would be the easiest way to test it..
Another question.
When I say loose.. like wiggle 1/4" back and forth loose.. not slight. So I dont think its correct.
Rockers seemed a little loose.. Are they suppose to be at all? Dependent of where the piston is in rotation? If not I would think I am ready for a valve adjustment
Dependent on rotation. The cyl. has to be on compression for adjustment. See below for instructions.
M11 - ISM ENGINE VALVE CLEARANCE & INJECTOR SET UP PROCEDURE (https://www.justanswer.com/heavy-equipment/67giw-m11-ism-engine-valve-clearance-injector-set-proceder.html)
those are in the .00 measurements.. not way these are close..
Are you checking with that cyl. in the right position? I have never seen valves on a Cummins get that far off.
Sounds like you mean the rocker arm itself having play on the oil feed tube,not familiar with that engine but sounds ok and
your engine looks like new from the pictures with the valve cover off.
.027" (exhaust valves) is not really that close.
Haaa I have no idea what i'm doing lol.. just guessing.. will set an appt to make sure they are good.. I could move the rocker with my fingers and it moved pretty good.. wouldnt hurt to check..
But, if the cam follower is not "off the cam", clearance will be LESS.
Said another way, the most valve clearance is at TDC/follower on the "back side of the cam".
The one with the most movement that I checked was at the rear of the motor.. closest to the bathroom.. others will significantly tigher.. only checked 3.. but I have always wondered if they are correct with 225k on the clock
Clearance is only in the "up/down" dimension. You stick a feeler gauge in the "gap". So, no back and forth/side to side.
If you still have the valve cover off, run a feeler gauge on them-- no need to set engine to TDC-- just check that none of the exhausts, for example allow a .035" feeler gauge to easily slide in/out.
You can't check clearance without following the procedure to put the cam lobe in the proper position for each cyl. Some rockers will be pushing on valves at any given time. Valves and seats wear and clearances get smaller as an engine wears.
YUP, in which case clearance will be LESS/none.
Again, just for a quick check with the engine in that one position/no rotation needed, see if a .035" feeler gauge will fit in any of the exhausts.
No, that is NOT the way to set them, but will at least tell you if they are WAY out of adjustment.
It's closed for now. Not sure if the valves have ever been set so for piece of mind I'll get them done..
David,
Ask the tech to let you know how they are set/measure before adjusting. Will address your curiosity question.
BTW, though I have adjusted valves on large diesels, most of my valve adjustment experience has been on air cooled VW's (valve adjustment called for every 6,000 miles and set to .004"-- have done several THOUSAND), Volvos and Kubota and Yanmar marine diesels.
How about the old Chevy Duntov 30 30 cam for small block?
The closest I have gotten was when I used to set the points on my 76 Camaro 305 motor. I think I have someone who can help with this part.. Thanks guys for the help/suggestions
It sounds as tho the OP was talking about lateral play of the loose rockers. Not the lash gap .
FWIW pretty much any 4 stroke will have a third of the valves able to be measured at any point of rotation.
That is exactly what I meant..I could move the one back and forth pretty good.
Thats pretty normal for post mounted rockers. If the rockers are shaft mounted, it may be faulty. The gap from the rocker to the valve stem is the measurement that is critical . It should be near the spec checked with a feeler gauge. Different engines have different specs and measurement methods.
Ok I have never adjusted the valves on a big diesel, and it's not like I can pull the plugs to relieve compression and rotate the crank with a rachet. Just how big of breaker bar or cheater is required? Or do you loosen the injectors? Hate the thought of using an impact wrench. Or bumping the starter.
Per the shop manual rocker side clearance should be .020 " . Adjustment is done by moving the supports before torquing. There's a detailed proceedure in the shop manual. One of the best $100 I've spent was signing up for cummins QuickServe years ago. Access to current service and parts manuals, don't know if the cost has increased.
Froxlor Server Management Panel (http://www.QuickServe.cummins.com).
That should be quickserve.cummins.com, you can get to it from the Cummins web site.
It got changed when I posted.
FYI that clearance is for an ISM, M11 should be the same.
I bump the starter and use a notebook to keep track of data. I would avoid loosening any injectors. IMHO .
Anyone know what the front seal number is .. I cant figure out how to find it on the Quickserve site..
Going to tackle this soon.
David,
It should be Cummins 3804744 but you need to double check as that is for the older versions of the M-11.
You may also need the cheesy seal installing tool. I don't know the number for one of those but you should be able to google it. It is to install the wear sleeve and is a must have.
Mike