Looking for ideas on keeping the bathroom sliding door secured during travel. I have been using a rubber door stop but it works its way loose after a few miles on rough roads. Any other ideas?
Small screw clamp? Bar clamp? Spring loaded clamp?
Don't know how much room you have for any of the above.
What about an adjustable closet rod on the floor across the casing to the door?
hmmm. most of them have a VERY positive deter/stop that holds it open for that very purpose - suspect yours did at one time too - assuming you are pushing it hard into the open position past the dent (if you don't it will come open with a SLAM as you have not doubt experienced - I like the closet rod idea - but why not up high to walk under rather than risk a trip hazard?
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz) - home of SureStart soft starters TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) - home of Generac Approved Aluminum and Copper TCER Composite cable generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) - home of X-Riser Gas Risers for PE installation Call me at 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
I have the rubber stopper also.. comes loose at times.. I am thinking a strap at the top on the frame and velcro on the otherside. That is how our doors were on our fifth wheel long ago.. it worked.
Maybe the door needs adjusted.. Mine seems to be a little better lately without the stop.. strange.
Yes mine seems to lock open ok, and will hold it most of the time, however when we bump and twist going down the road it will slam closed.
Closet Rod sounds like that might work.
thx
Maybe a fabric strap across the top of the door with a snap. Simple.
I have used spring loaded curtain rods high up across the doorway for both bathroom sliding doors and also the sliding closet door for years and has not failed yet. try this link
Amazon.com: Tension Rods - 5 PACK Cupboard Bars Tensions Rod Curtain Rod... (https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Rods-Cupboard-Tensions-Extendable/dp/B0773C3Q7J/ref=asc_df_B0773C3Q7J/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=237938273012&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1860323937745999631&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010790&hvtargid=pla-393134250225&psc=1)
Good ideas for holding the door open, but what about keeping the bedroom sliding door closed?
Seems with it closed it would minimize the noise and heat from the engine somewhat.
or shower rod/curtain rod - whatever is simple to put up and take down
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz) - home of SureStart soft starters TCER Direct (http://www.tcerdirect.com) - home of Generac Approved Aluminum and Copper TCER Composite cable generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) - home of X-Riser Gas Risers for PE installation Call me at 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
I added a square of velro on the edge of the door at the top and the other part in the same place on the jamb. It is enough to hold the door closed without having to use the latch. The self stick on the velcro is often less then the velcro holding power. A couple of staples on each side helps.
Both of my pocket doors have an adjustment that allows the door to have more or less tension to hold it open (in the pocket).
However I don't recall at the moment how to access them.
Foliver,is the locking mechanism not working,Lowes or Amazon should have them in stock,we just rebuilt ours,you can get one
without the screwdriver slot so it's easier to unlock.
That is the question.. the mechanism on mine is in the rear of the pocket.. no way to get to that I can tell..
Its to far back to reach in such a small space. or am I missing something?
A compression type cafe curtain rod works extremely well for us.
Jim
2002 U320
I reversed the locking mechanism on the door. We close and lock the door when we travel, problem solved.
Roland
My mechanism to hold the door back in the pocket feels like velcro and works fine. The latch broke, and I was so surprised to find it on the shelf at Lowes:
Shop National Hardware 2.75-in Satin Nickel Pocket Door Pull at Lowes.com (https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-2-75-in-Satin-Nickel-Pocket-Door-Pull/1000158385?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-DoorAndHomeHardware-_-1000158385:National_Hardware&CAWELAID=&kpid=1000158385&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2940&k_clickID=4e55faeb-7c2c-42fd-88fa-a3865419f08c&gclid=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYtIM9EUYdbEtKO_HXC-JXXOS5GWMXcdawcJ4XJrrOVsLRtXVzHbAjxoCQFoQAvD_BwE)
Pulls and Latches (http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/InsideRV/PullsLatches)
Replaced mine with the ORB color
The pocket door between the kitchen and bathroom sometimes opens all the way, so that it is locked open. There is a small handle that is supposed to open to allow easy pulling of the door. That handle doesn't always cooperate, so that we have to use a key to get the handle open. We generally keep that door mostly open so that it is easy to grab when someone needs to use the bathroom.
The door between the bedroom and bathroom opens and closes properly. Of course, it isn't a pocket door, so that it is very easy to grab when we need to close it. There is a "lock" mechanism on the doors that is supposed to lock the doors closed when needed, but neither one works. On the rare times when the coach is somewhat tilted and we need a door to stay closed a door stop works well.
We keep both doors open when traveling, as we do when we're landed. There is little engine noise when traveling that reaches the front of the coach.
On my coach the mechanism that locks the door open is at the back of the pocket at the top. Look in the gap with a good flashlight and it's obvious how it works. I am going to adjust mine tonight so I will let you know how it goes. Requires a long stiff rod to bend it I think.
Keith
I made a couple of pieces of wood for the 2 sliding doors that span the entrance across the opening and rest on the floor. The ends have some slots to keep it in place. I rounded the top so it isn't much of trip hazard. After reading the posts though the adjustable shower/curtain rod may be a better solution.