We purchased our 1986 Grand Villa on a whim almost 2 years ago. I'd never heard of Foretravel. Never owned an RV. Had no idea what to look for when purchasing a used unit. As soon as I started going through it, I realized there was much work to be done. Wiring had been hacked up by a PO, propane wouldn't work (removed solenoid), needed shocks, service brake diaphragms, new power converter, the list goes on. From the second trip on (don't ask about the first, it was a nightmare) I noticed that the gasket on the passenger side of the windshield had a gap between it and the fiberglass. I wrote it off as old age, no big deal. Seemed to go away once the rv was stationary and the airbags were empty. Then the driver's side windshield moved outward. I finally have gotten to working on this issue. Pulled the locking strips out of the windshield and reseated both sides properly. I referred to the forums (specifically Mr B's windshield and nose cone issues) for solutions. I have delam on the passenger side and the nose cone seems to have sagged on that side, thus creating the gap I mentioned. I have a plan, but I'd like some input. I want to:
1. Weld the bumper supports that connect to the frame in place so that the beams that run to the bumper are more sturdy than just being bolted on.
2. Jack the passenger side of the nose cone back to its proper height, about 1/2 inch up. Maybe a little less.
3. Attach pressure treated 2X4 to the underside of the nose cone with Gorilla glue, just above the bumper rails. Its very thick and sturdy there, should have no trouble supporting a little extra weight.
4. Weld a piece of steel beam to connect from the bumper rail to the newly added wood. Connect the beam to the wood with thick screws. Will complete the same procedure on driver's side to distribute weight evenly.
5. Weld angle iron from the base of bulkhead to the wood block behind grab handles, connect with screws. Since this would be at an angle, I'd also cross brace to to the top of the bulkhead.
6. Re-secure the dash to nose cone with Gorilla glue.
7. Open seam behind nose cone on passenger side and inject gorilla glue into nose cone to solve delam on that side. Allow all glue to dry thoroughly before any movement.
This is my plan. I am pretty confident that it will eliminate the issue and prevent it from occurring again. I plan on making a video of the process for YouTube, as well as follow up after the first post-repair trip. I am open to suggestions if you have any.
Sounds good to me,paint all metal you can get to with rust bullet paint per their directions.
When you get to #6 you will most likely find that the wood piece (what the dash is made of) along the area next to the front cap has rotted. This area is prime for rotting due to moisture/condensation running down the windshield and collecting at this point. Several owners have had to remake this piece and the mounting points during a simular repair.
Mike
YUP. That and severe twisting of the body.
Did you have to do any modifications to our (your) nose?
Nope.
But, advice for everyone: minimize conditions that generate lots of condensation on the front windshield and/or use a towel to dry it before driving. All that water goes down and delams the dash/nose structure.
And when it is all fixed up and you have had your fun with it and want to sell it a friend who sold me my first GV (OREG< UGHHHH and I still like him) would be a prospect to sell it to down the road.
Just PM me if that ever meets your needs
After rereading your project and knowing the scope of work involved, you may think about using 3M-5200 rather than Gorilla glue.
Mike
I used 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive. This is a very serious adhesive used by the automotive industry instead of welding. Fast, easy, worked for me. Sealed wood to fiberglass on front.
John
I second the 3M-5200 idea. Excellent product for this application.
I did the same repair about 11 months ago..posted here with photos..used West System 6/10. Have racked up 8K miles since then and its solid as a rock.
H
The two part 3M epoxy bonding adhesive will probably work OK. Check the working time, fit everything before applying glue and have a clamping strategy ready to go. Thinner bond lines with epoxy adhesive work better than thick ones. Screw or bolt things together for clamping.
The 3M 5200 is often used for bonding bulkheads and frame components into boat hulls. It is very tough, waterproof and a bit flexible that helps in twisting. Clamping in needed but bond lines can be thicker and more gaps and irregularites can be tolerated.
Both require clean and dry surface. The 3M 5200 requires more time so set and cure. Follow the instructions.
All of the cedar boards on the deck at out home were glued down with 3M 5200 adhesive and no other fasteners 17 years ago. In only a few places has that bond come loose and screws been added. And this is outside in rain and snow, 100° occasionally in the summer, a couple of -30° in the winters and deck boards shrinking over time. I would do it again.
3M 08115 has a work time of 90 min, clamp time 4 hrs, and a cure time of 24 hrs.
John
Where is this available? Does home depot keep it?
And Home Depot
Of course it is available at Amazon
3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Black, 06504, 1/10 gal: Industrial Sealants:... (https://amazon.com/dp/B001R0GUZG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B001R0GUZG&pd_rd_wg=UBCNG&pd_rd_r=YBM2KWAGNS00BKE2TB4J&pd_rd_w=SxWmb)
Black, white and tan colors.
Here is another source, less per cartridge, not sure about shipping
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=6956&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8vLthKqx3AIVUtbACh3qhA0ZEAQYASABEgJ3ofD_BwE
"This high performance polyurethane adhesive sealant becomes tack-free in 24-48 hours, and completely cures in 5-7 days with no shrinking. The seal is extremely strong, retaining its strength above or below the waterline. 5200 stays flexible and allows for structural movement.
Consider using 5200 Fast Cure instead if the quickest possible cure rate is a consideration. It has slightly less tensile strength, but provides full cure in as little as 24 hours."
Fast cure ....
3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Fast Cure White, 06520: Boating Equipment:... (https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-White/dp/B0032FTM4U/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1532215335&sr=1-4&keywords=3m+5200+fast+cure)
Thanks for the info, I will probably get it from home depot tomorrow. The coach isnt moving for at least a week so cure time isnt a problem. I am going to use the 5200 because of price. I just can't afford a $72 bottle of epoxy right now.