Good day folks! I've had my "new baby" at a repair shop just after buying her and driving her 2000 miles home, handling the seal leak and a few other things and at the end of the repair list they noted my radiator is leaking. This is a heavy duty truck shop and they've had a look and it appears will be quite the project to drop the radiator out by raising the rear end. Foretravel says 12-14 hr job, yet no feedback on process. Before green lighting that they go forward I thought I would ask if anyone has any experience or tips they can provide that I can communicate to the shop to potentially save time with the removal/replacement. These are coach bucks I was not expecting, much like the oil leak on the way home) They have a place that can re-core (the lead time at Atlas Radiator in Corpus is 12 weeks, as an FYI) I researched radiators on the site and learned that it's a b!tich and many places won't mess with it. This shop has been exemplary thus far and they will tackle. Just looking for advice and/or experience to pass onto them. Many thanks.
JL
Do you have a side-facing radiator on the passenger side? If so, the link below will give you some idea what is involved in a radiator R & R on a U320. Your radiator mounting area will be of similar construction but may differ in some details. It is a BIG job. Some hardy Forum members have accomplished this task on their own, but probably better to let a competent shop do the heavy lifting. You can remove the air intake grill (or in some cases the whole body panel) to gain better work access and allow the radiator to come out the side rather than straight down.
Radiator Replaced on a 2003 U320 Cummins M-11 (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/radiator_replaced_on_a_2003_u320_cummins_m-11.html)
Andy2, Just did his side rad on a GV with a 6v92 maybe he will chime in.
Andy just had his recored but did the R&R himself. He is an excellent mechanic and can see the easiest way to do things. I don't think it was that bad. He won't mind spending some time on the phone and has some photos. I remember he separated the fans before pulling. PM him: Andy and Eileen Wright.
You probably have the later coach with the horizontal radiator with two fans?
Both Andy and I went to our respective Detroit dealers and both recommended the green antifreeze. You would not want to develop a leak in the aftercooler.
Pierce
Bars leak first, approved by FT
Is it leakage or seepage right now? Helps to know. My coach has bolted tank headers so my first start would be check the bolt torque.
1993 u 300 should be rear radiator and is a extensive job. That being said you do not want a v692 to overheat. Thats the #1 killer of this engine. There are a couple small hoses behind starter and i would definitly replace them at same time along with water pump and any other hoses You find compromised. Also check belts.
You will save a lot in long run.
Just my opinion.
The 1992 through 1995 models are all side radiators. '92s had a vertical single fan radiator.
Overheating is not good for any engine but especially engines with wet liners like 92 series Detroits and Cummins except for the 5.9.
PIerce
I replaced our side radiator/CAC last year. Atlas made a new one based on our build number. They are heavy, and with the CAC attached tend to tilt to that side. I used motorcycle lifts (cheap at Harbor Freight) to ease it into place and since I was not on a concrete floor, needed my tractor to move it to the coach. As someone else said, it is pretty involved. While the space was open, I cleaned up all the surface rust, rebuilt the fan motors and replaced all coolant and hydraulic hoses and transmission cooler. Even with my own labor, it was expensive.
I have talked to JL on the phone and gave him what I did and my experience, have not heard back from him yet.😀