I was going to unhook my negative battery cables so I could install my boost solenoid but the nuts wont budge. They appear to be steel bolts with brass nuts, there is no corrosion on them but but it is like someone used red loctite on them.
So my first option is to use Blaster penetrating fluid applied with a needle as it is petroleum based and keep it wiped off the battery cases.
The second option would be to use a cutoff wheel on a Dremel or a Die Grinder to cut the bolts, but I am not sure about sparks that close to the battery.
Does anyone have a better idea?
Thanks
From the manufacturer website. Here you go:
How to Remove Red Threadlocker - Henkel Adhesive Technologies Blog (https://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker/)
Keith
Thanks Keith, I have used this method when removing rocker arm studs in a 302 motor I had.
Here I am not sure about the Hydrogen gas from the batteries, I dont want them to blowup in my face when I am stuck through a small opening, it might trim my beard a little.
My solution would be a nut splitter. In my tool box is a Craftsman splitter that I inherited from my father - still does the job. Easy!
Note: Link below is to the current model. My decades old splitter has a "floating head" design that I believe is superior.
Sears.com (https://www.sears.com/craftsman-nut-cracker/p-00904772000P)
Thanks Chuck, I just dug mine out and I am not sure if it has room to slide over the nut, the distance between the nut and battery case is pretty close but I will take it out with me and see if I can give it a twist ^.^d
Hope it works!
If you are not already using them, I highly recommend military style battery connectors. While you are messing with your electrical system would be a good time to install fresh connectors.
Amazon.com: Pico 0810PT Military Style Top Post Battery Terminal 1 Set... (https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0810PT-Military-Terminal-Positive/dp/B001QRTZR0/ref=pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_all_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001QRTZR0&pd_rd_r=FXV8AJZ585YF32TT7R5V&pd_rd_w=kOFYT&pd_rd_wg=yd6AE&psc=1&refRID=F3C97J1ESN1PZWQ7W0FZ)
It has one similar but the post is vertical instead of horizontal
Just use a battery terminal puller. Cheap at any auto store. It pulls up on the terminal while pushing down on the post. Military connectors are the best. The red you see is probably just a red corrosion spray someone applied. I use stainless fasteners on the terminals.
Pierce
Squeeze the nut. with visegrips
Stainless fasteners work well but put an anti-sieze lube on the threads before cinching them up. If the nuts lock up on the bolts about the only way to get them off is to cut them and stainless is very tough to cut. I would not use any sort of lock tight on battery connections. Copper and lead are pretty soft and will compress a bit over time. You need to be able to tighten them up from time to time.
Steve,
Use a terminal post puller as suggested by Pierce. Cover the batteries with a cloth and blow a fan in there if you still need to be near them to loosen nuts that will ensure that even if there is any hydrogen around it will be evacuated. You wont blow yourself up then.
Keith
Thanks Pierce, I may have to but I will still have to get the bolts out of the clamps
Will squeezing it help break it loose maybe?
Thanks Roger, I always try to use SS hardware and the other day I picked up so anti-sieze with silver. The bolt store where I am getting my hardware said it was best and all they carry
Thanks Keith I already have my fan setting with my other stuff when I go out and I do have some old blankets I use for odd things like this
Wear eye protection if you have any sparks at all in that area.
Oh I do, after 8 eye surgeries I always wear eye protection ^.^d
Roger,
I have seen galling several times but never encountered it myself. I have always used as much stainless as possible in any kind of project I have. Aside from the battery stainless fasteners, I drilled and tapped where the pop rivets were in the entry step and installed button head stainless cap screws. Pretty straight forward with the only lubrication being the oil on the cutting tap. I use all new stainless nuts when I replace an airbag on the U300. My replacement bulkhead fasteners are 316 stainless.
I have installed stainless non-structural screw kits on many aircraft. Each kit has hundreds of screws. Installation consists of using a battery powered 12V drill to take the steel screws out and then to install the stainless hardware. This is always without exception, done dry. In an annual inspection, all the inspection plates have to come off quickly and easily. Just never have had one gall.
So, my experience has just been the opposite. The stainless is never eaten away by electrolysis, never rusts, stays nice and clean so it can be easily removed for any maintenance.
Pierce
It is very easy to get bolts and nuts to experience galling and become locked together. Especially if you are using a battery powered or air impact driver. Maybe using hand tools and slow speeds will reduce it. I moved a solar panel this summer, 2 of 16 bolts got cut off. All of the bolts and nuts left were removed and coated with an anti-seize coating.
I worked on ships in the 80's, we had to cut 3/4" and 1" SS bolts and nuts apart. No way to get them apart. All the replacements were coated with anti-seize. If you have never experienced this then you are lucky. Just wait. It will be just like the nut is welded on. If the bolt is small enough and you have a big enough impact wrench you may be able to twist and break the bolt. By 5/16" you are more likely to just turn the nut or bolt head round.
So don't use an anti-seize and take your chances or use an anti-seize coating (a small container will last the rest of your life) and never have a problem.
If all else fails, use a long hacksaw blade in a reciprocating saw on the nut. Cut it just enough so you can split the nut.
When working around batteries I always cover them with a heavy cloth soaked with water... Freshly charged batteries, or even bumping batteries can cause bubble of hydrogen gas to be released. Believe me when I say it is highly explosive and battery cases most often cannot take the stress, if you are lucky the bottom blows out and you are not hit in the face with acid.... Batteries are extremely dangerous..... Use extreme caution....
Dave
I am not sure a saw blade can be used at the terminal is so big you cant get a good like to cut without cutting the lead part. >:(
Thanks Dave, that is why I am not sure of using cutoff wheels.
OK, if the nut or bolt head is accessible enough that you could center punch the nut halfway between the thread and the hex flat then could you possibly use progressively larger drills--starting with 1/16" diameter? Once you get close to the threads or the flat then try using a tapered center punch to distort the hole. This should loosen the nut on the bolt.
If the bolt head is the end available then center punch and drill progressively larger until you can knock the head off or it spins on the drill.
A third alternative I have used is to keep center punching on one flat until the nut comes loose. This center punching distorts the nut and uses less force than trying to "horse" the nut loose to the point that the post is torn loose.
I would use a cut off wheel or sawzall before I hammer on the battery. You will knock the post loose before you break the nut IMHO.
The only battery explosion I have had was tapping on the clamp/post, shorted the battery and exploded all over the hood . Not even hit that hard.
Hose down the area, cover the exposed parts of the battery and wiz the nut off. saw zall also.
Edit;; add a box fan blowing on the project to reduce bad fumes.
I assume that you tried squeezing/distorting the nut with vise grips along with penetrating oils. .
I will give it a try next week as the coach is stored 40 miles from the house.
Depends on how hard you hit the punch. We used to refer to our five hammers--ranging from small ball peen hammer up to a two handed sledge as our percussion persuader set.
Try finesse first with the small ball peen hammer and a quantity of hits on the hex flat towards the direction you want the nut to turn.
IF as posted there are no hydrogen vapors in the area from flooded cell batteries primarily I would personally use my tiny hand held butane torch to heat the bolt and nut assembly. Degrades the loktite if used. Flank drive wrenches that work on the flats of the nut allow more force to be applied to the fastener, should come off with heat.
Ventilate area first if unsure.
Sealed batteries with out being charged should not have any gas present
Both sets of Batteries are AGM type of Batteries so I guess I could unhook the shore power for a couple of day before I work on it. The start batteries are not being charged as the reason for replacing the solenoid. I think my wife has to of the small butane torches that she uses for her silver smithing, maybe one can disappear for a couple of hours??
Steve,
Another option would be to leave the batteries connected and be very careful when removing the cables at the solenoid. The secret is to have "insulators" ready.
I have done this by having scraps of bicycle inner tubes or scrap hose that will fit over the metal ends of the cables. Remove the cables one at a time and use you "insulator" to render them safe until the new solenoid is in place.
If done carefully, a lot better than taking a chance on destroying a battery.
Can you get a 6point wrench and a six point socket on the bolt and keep turning til the bolt breaks?What about a small 4 inch pipe
wrench,any chance of a picture?
Hmmm Thanks Brett, I do have some old motorcycle tubes that I can cut up. I have done this with house wiring where I just take a wire loose and put a twist nut on it. guess cut them about 10" long and zip time one end on all 4 of them then take the nuts off and slide them on and zip tie them in place. ^.^d
Thanks John, I always use 6 point as long as I have the range of motion where I can get them on a fastener and there is not enough room to get a 6 inch pipe wrench jaws around the square end.
I dont have any closeup pictures of them. I am able to put enough pressure in them that I can feel the post start to move and the nut start to smear so that is when I stopped to ask questions.
The suggestion on reply #7 to use a cable puller is the way to go. The posts are tapered and after getting the cable off the battery you can do any of the other options.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrench-Battery-Terminal-Puller-202D/205595393?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-1_HAND+TOOLS%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034127224%7c58700003933021546%7c92700031755124844&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9Y7hyJvU3AIVCspkCh1Uqg5zEAQYAiABEgLeRfD_BwE&dclid=CIT1s82b1NwCFUhQwQods9EBsg