I have been considering this since the Siren post a few months ago. Here is additional info that I received today for my 7.5 Norcold
" New cooling unit option:
Converts your existing fridge to a residential fridge, (which eliminates your Ammonia system and LP Gas) this cooling unit is built with a compressor system and not only do you get to keep your same fridge and controls you are used to but there is no need to remove the windshield or window to get the old fridge out and the new in nor the hassle of cutting or redoing the cabinets to make a new fridge fit. There is also no need to have your coach level anymore for the fridge, since this unit will have a compressor. It pulls .08 Amp on AC which is only a small fraction of what most residential fridge's will pull and will run off a 600W inverter (does not require pure sign wave). This unit will only run approx.30-60% of the time, meaning it will easy run 4-5 days on 4 batteries without charging. Or this unit is also available with a low energy 12V compressor. Both AC and DC cooling units are designed to withstand hot humid temps and will keep your ice-cream hard. This unit comes with a 3 year warranty with an additional 3 year option for $75, and is very user friendly to work on in the field should it need it down the road. See our easy to install video or have it factory installed.........
$595.00 AC Compressor
$800.00 DC Compressor
$150 factory install or we can ship to your location anywhere in the 48 states"
I also asked the following
Is the one amp draw continuous or the average over an hour? It pulls
.08 A AC / or 5.5A DC
What is the compressor kicking draw? 8A AC/ 12A DC
Is the only area required to be open, no clearance, the back? Unless your fridge is really tight this unit will fit in where yours is
The last sentence was actually an inarticulate air flow question.
The install video shows a very straight forward job hence the 150. Videos | JC Refrigeration (http://jc-refrigeration.com/videos/)
Remember this is the 7.5 Cf Norcold.
George, I am having trouble making sense of the these numbers.
"Is the one amp draw continuous or the average over an hour? It pulls
.08 A AC / or 5.5A DC"
0.08 amps at 120 v is 9.6 watts.
5.5 amps at 12.5 v is 68.75 watts.
"What is the compressor kicking draw? 8A AC/ 12A DC"
8 amps at 120v is 960 watts.
12 amps at 12.5v is 150 watts.
Average power use on my Samsung over more than a month that I monitored it was about 70 watts per hour, peaks at about 145 watts. Add about 10 watts for the small inverter to get 6.4 amp average 12.5 v DC load including the inverter or peaks around 12.4 amps 12.5v DC loads.
Am I missing something here?
I just loaned Amanda and Douglas a Kill-a-Watt meter so they can measure theirs in real use over then next 10 days or so.
They will report the results.
I am anxious to see real world results. Glad they will post. I asked the additional questions because I couldn't figure it out either.
I am also very interested in the electric conversion(s). I'm heading to J C Refrigeration in October for a rebuild.
Am I missing something also,is Amanda and Doug Siren??????
Siren and ScubaGuy
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=profile;u=2843
hahaha...Yes! Amanda (me) is "Siren" and Douglas is "ScubaGuy." :D :D :D
And here is Douglas' profile as "ScubaGuy."
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=profile;u=2432
This is getting interesting with a 12 volt option . Wonder if it is a Danfos compressor. If so, that would be cool. We shall see.
As a side note, we had an Amish cooling unit installed last Labor Day. Our Dometic 2 door is running great on #2 of 5 setting. Refigerator temps 38-40, freezer 9. We can boondock using our coach as it was designed, propane or electric. JR installed it at JC Refrigeration.
How's the new fridge working out?
Please see JC-Refrigeration Conversion, Power Consumption (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34886.0)