Coach paid a visit to Oregon Motorcoach for fluids and filters. One of the lunch list items was a ch ck of the propane firing mechanism on the 10 gallon Atwood water heater. Tech found a melted ground wire and suggested replacing the sockets to the control board but was unable the sockets, and found that Atwood/Doemtic couldn't even ship until 8/17...long after we would be gone. See attached pics.
I was assured continued operation of the heater in 120 electric mode (genny or shore power) would pose no safety issue but any further operation in propane mode required splicing good wires to new male socket ends. There was discussion that the melting could actually have affected the female ends on the control board and potentially further issues behind the board could be present.
At least for the balance of our trip (3 more months) we can get by with electric mode. So my questions are:
1. What could cause this issue?
2. What is the likelihood changing the male socket could work?
3. Since existing heater is over 10 years old...maybe as much as 15 years...does it make sense to simple replace the unit?
4. If the heater were replaced what is the best traditional electric/propane 10 gallon tank currently available and how difficult would it be to do the changeout myself?
Thanks
Randy
Randy, it looks like two plugs with wires fitted with crimp-on male pin (or female socket) ends that fit into the white plug body. The plugs are fitted into sockets (or over pins) on the control board. Wires melt because of too much current or resistance. The two ground wires are next to eack other in the bottom plug. These are low power control wires so one or the other ground wires may have had a bad crimp-on end or the wire was damaged when stripped.
Running on either gas or electric still uses both plugs. Either way needs both ground wires. You will need to replace the plugs and crimp-on ends..
Wow looks like possibly a short between the ground and hot at the plug, or a loose connection. You are surely going to need a connector and Likely new control board. You may give Dinosaur electronics a call for a replacement board they may be able to get you a connector or know where you can get one. 8/17 is not that far out. You know you could have Atwood ship that connector to one of the campgrounds you have reservations at, we do that all the time. I would certainly not replace the complete heater, Atwood's have aluminum tanks and last a very long time.
I agree with Bruce:
Replace the plug.
If still issues, replace the PC board-- we don't know what damage that overheating did to the board.
Unless you have some other symptom of a water heater failure, do not spend the $$ to replace the whole water pump.
BTW, you should also have motor-aid hot water (any time you drive).
Randy,
Dinosaur boards are about $85 and they ship quickly. Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances. (https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/)
Easy to replace but I was not aware of the 10 second or so delay before the gas ignites. Thought something was wrong for a few seconds.
Pierce
Might take a look at rveparts.com Atwood water heater parts page 4 lists a wire harness. Look like what you may need.
Found the part on Amazon and it will be here this week. What's the groups preferred splicing method...wire nuts? 😟
Butt connectors. With shrink wrap and butt connector filled with silicone dielectric grease.
Or, you can solder them with shrink wrap over the connection.
And, when you reconnect it, keep your fingers on the connector-- if there is a dead short in the PC board, it may allow the connection to get hot. Yes, it should blow the fuse if this happens, but your picture said it DID happen already.
I ordered both the wiring harness and a new PC board. I'll try the harness first before changing the board.
On wires like these I prefer a soldered joint with an adhesive lined heat shrink tube. A little less bulky.
This is a pretty good procedure.
Soldering Tutorial: Inline Splicing: 7 Steps (with Pictures) (https://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-Tutorial-Inline-Splicing/)
I've been watching these and plan to order.
100pcs Solder Sleeve Heat Shrink Butt Waterproof 26-10 AWG Wire Splice... (https://www.ebay.com/p/100pcs-Solder-Sleeve-Heat-Shrink-Butt-Waterproof-26-10-AWG-Wire-Splice-Connector/8021426859?iid=142753153508&chn=ps)
Amazon.com: 80pcs Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Sopoby Heat Shrink Butt... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYXN6PO/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkxsx_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=9RQSH1T99C6JZ5QDVR1D&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=f13ce63c-065d-5cc4-8d51-8c188079eb1a&pf_rd_i=306720011)
Interesting connectors, Jack. I haven't tried them but worth a look. Most of the wires in your FT are 12 ga, some 10 ga, a few 14 ga. Smaller wires maybe on some of the light fixtures. A kit with mast of the connectors for very small wires may not be a good choice.
Inside the coach I use long neck crimp caps. $2.71 for 100 of this size. Get a range of sizes. Long neck makes strip length easy. Easy to joint wires of different siizea or multiple wires. What I really like is I can hold the cap in my crimper in one hand and manage wires in the other. And it is just one crimp. Add dielectric grease if you need to or a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tube if needed.
Amazon.com: Install Bay CCL1614 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long... (https://amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1534085442&sr=8-5&keywords=Crimp+caps)
Here is another inside multi-wire connector that is easy to undo and reusable.
Lever-Nut Assortment Conductor Compact Wire Connectors pct-212 25pcs pct-213... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B077CMXPKL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Crimp tool
Gardner Bender GS-388 Electrical Pliers, Crimper & Cutter, Comfort Grip,... (https://amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GS-388-Electrical-Aluminum/dp/B00079LN1Y/ref=sr_1_8?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1534086007&sr=1-8&keywords=crimper+tool)
I like the idea of the caps. One of my favorite tools, an automatic wire stripper.
Google Express (https://express.google.com/u/0/product/10630927267347335267_1221813386432078095_8613692?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt,4181973>im=COv_lN6f24uZyQEQgJqZ-pWOh7l5GPCCyggiA1VTRA&utm_campaign=8613692)
Parts should arrive this week. When I replace the wiring harness, and board if needed, I assume shore power must be off and inverter off. But I assume this is 12v so flip breaker for w/h should be off too. Anything else?
Randy,
I replaced (years ago) ours with just the water heater switch off but never a bad idea to have everything else off. Check your schematic to see how it's wired. Might want to replace the sensors on the water heater. They are a couple of them in a kit, cheap and super easy to R&R.
Pierce
I job st turn off the 12 WH switch and the 120v switch.
Finished repair successfully today. Thanks to Jack. These
Amazon.com: 80pcs Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Sopoby Heat Shrink Butt... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYXN6PO/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkxsx_c_x_w?ie=UTF8&tag=foreforums-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957)
connectors worked perfectly. Insert wire just past the red collars (1/4" strip). This places the stripped wires along side each other in the center where the solder is. Apply heat and tubes shrink first to hold wires in place. Moments later solder melts and surrounds w8res. Nice tight seal which also appears to be water tight.
Replaced board to be safe as heat had melted base of wire posts on board. Works as it should on electric and propane.
QUESTION: Could running water heater on gas and electric simultaneously have caused this problem?
Randy,
I doubt it very much. We have engine heat, hotrod electric and propane and never have had a problem except for the board years ago. No problem since replacing it. The board gets exposed to a lot of weather and heat where it is located.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce. I like to run both when Karen is doing laundry and we wan5 showers too! I'll keep an eye on the new wire splices. So far no heat to the touch.
We run both when we need a lot of hot water.