We are pretty desperate to get our coach out of the southern California sun and are researching metal structures, since they will be easier to maintain. Does anyone have a manufacturer that they are familiar with and can recommend. Dimensions I'm thinking about: 40 x 16 x 12 (vertical clearance).
I would go longer then 40 & higher then 12' If I had gone bigger the first time I built an RV shelter I would not have had to redue it twice. I now have where I can park a Prevost in there. Don't plan on ever owning one, but in the beginning I never though I would keep buying bigger and bigger.
For resale the bigger the better. The next guy's coach may have a much higher profile.
We went to a lot of trouble waiting for a 36' and will never go bigger. If we get another coach someday, it would be to downsize for shorter trips.
Agree (with going taller) - it would be nice if you could work on the stuff on the roof when it is under cover (and in the shade).
Some of the sites have the ability for you to "build your own"so you can price it,your in CA so whatever the price is yours will be the
highest.
I'm not sure that an all metal structure is the best way to go. I looked at an all metal structure and a wood frame with metal over structure. The wood frame was cheaper and it gives you the ability to add shelving, benches, etc. I made mine 16ft by 50ft with a 14ft door and built in a shop on one end. Our 36 ft GV fits in nicely with plenty of shop room You can also easily insulate it if so desired. If you don't care for any thing inside, metal would probably be OK. It will get hot inside though. Have a great day ---- Fritz
Google, Cover All, it's the only way to go
Sven, don't forget to figure in the wall thickness to get net interior size. Open the bay doors and add the max extension when opening on either side to get the width. Don't forget the front door. Add the generator door extension one the engine hatch as it opens to the overall length. And don't forget the towing gear.
We were limited to 12 ft sidewall height by code. We used common trusses but in hindsight we could have used scissors trusses to gain about 1.5 ft in the center. A barn roof truss with a raised floor (a specialty truss) would have gained us even more. Big sliding doors on the sides let you access bays with plenty of room.
Stick built by you is always less money.
COACH HOUSE (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=32579.msg292195#msg292195)
Cover all shows being bought out by Norseman? Pro big company
Roger is right, 40 feet leaves almost no room for engine or generator door access. Ideally you want to be able to open either door and still walk past it without having to move the motor home ahead or back a couple feet. Since you are a diy guy room to walk the roof and work on it I side would be a good idea
In engineering and most software pricing programs for buildings there are things called breakpoint tables where an extra inch can cost you a significant amount, because it puts you in a whole different class of structural reinforcement. Maximum frame spacing for the purlins is one of these. Build to the maximum and you get the biggest bang for the buck. Nobody has EVER said my garage or shop is too big, or my coach has too much HP. You will have to play with the size to find out the where the breakpoints are. IE if you want a room with 10 foot ceilings you will be buying 12 foot gyp board sheets, if 9'-10 ceilings are ok you will save a bunch. Wood may be cheaper now, wood or metal are still designed to the same structural standards and loading.
A lot of good suggestions, and many I have considered. I built a patio cover and a shed using wood, for reasons mentioned. A wood frame building would be simple enough, but my concern would be in the roof trusses; they can be purchased ready made, but getting them up there can be a trick without a cherry picker or crane. The other benefit to the wood frame is with the wiring for outlets and overhead lights if we go that way.
Our main consideration is shade, rather than security, so we might even have sides that are partially open and completely open ends. A wood structure would be easier to modify or add onto later, if we decide to get a little more ambitious.
I went with metal, less maintenance, no termite worries (in Florida) used a limerock base with crushed asphalt for flooring to save some dollars. No electric........... but will add a couple lights and a 30 amp RV outlet soon.
But..... I was only interested in a shelter from the elements, sun and rain here in Florida.
AND ....... I already have a 33 x 100 shop
It's 12.5' high at the wall and 14' in the center, 14' wide and 45' long................ installed $6000.
This is what I'm looking for - very basic, but does what I want it to. The frame appears to be welded as opposed to looking like an erector set. I would probably use DG for the flooring. Who is the manufacturer and did they do the installation?
local "sign" trucks are much cheaper than a dedicated crane co., and if you are flexible with the install date/time they can be quite affordable, as you would be fill-in work. I was thinking you had a tractor with a bucket on it, if so you could put a simple extension on it to get the relatively light trusses up.
Sven, a 16' common truss with a 12" overhang and a 6/12 pitch weighs about 65 lbs. a sissors truss might be a bit more. Two people can easily move these around on the ground. I used two sets of scaffold on wheels with planks. That gets you up to a good working height. Once the gable end truss is up and braced at the end you can start bringing up the trusses one by one from the inside or over the end of the barn. Position and nail each one one at a time and use temporary bracing to the ones already up. Much easier than it aounds.
We use 4 people to set trusses (24-30ft) on the Habitat homes I work on, mostly two story homes. We use ropes to pull the trusses up. We bring up several, one at a time and stack them flat at one end and then move one at a time into position. 3 20 penny box nails at each end and then later hurricane ties. Codes in CA might be different for earthquake loads. Houses I worked on in HI were much different.
If you have never done this it seems quite a challenge but it is pretty straight forward. With some repetition it gets easier. I have built or worked on more than 150 Habitat homes in 25 years. Practice makes, well not perfect, but less mistakes.
Sub out the shingles. At 90 lbs per bundle, 3 bundles per 100 sq ft, up a ladder with these is the killer task.
If you do it yourself think every step through and consider safety all the time. A good hammer and saw and a jug of advil and you are good to go.
Sven,
This probably won't be of much help to you but I posted to show how I did mine because of limited time. I still work and don't have as much free time as others may have. I wanted something done fairly quickly ( he was done in two days) and not terribly expensive.
I used a local contractor who specializes in home porch and patio additions and Carports / sheds. He buys the steel supports and custom bends the trusses at his shop. He purchases the metal roofing and siding from another local shop that has a forming machine. Metal comes in large rolls and he forms and cuts to custom length. Maybe someone in your area does the same?
ouch! I thought I was on to something. It isn't likely that someone in this area would do that. The people I am aware of prefer to slap a kit together in a day and charge a bundle. Thanks for the suggestion.