For those looking at new fridge developments, I came across this today. Not sure if it is because I am looking, but I am finding some interesting products Unique 9.0 CuFt Solar Powered DC Refrigerator - UGP-260L W (https://www.costco.com/Unique-9.0-CuFt-Solar-Powered-DC-Refrigerator---UGP-260L-W-.product.100362122.html)
$999
Product Details:
Unique's UGP 260L DC solar powered fridge/freezer allows you to enjoy the natural beauty and soundscapes of your surroundings without the never ending whine and smell of a gas powered generator. The UGP 260L is one of the most efficient refrigeration products available on the market today. Designed for optimal energy savings and easy, dependable use, this 9 cu.ft refrigerator boasts a super efficient DC Danfoss/Secop compressor and super efficient insulation throughout with simple effortless controls. All you need is a solar panel and batteries and you are up and running.
Features:
Adjustable heavy-duty glass shelves
Bottom crisper
Interior LED light
DC Power: 12V/24V
Adjustable thermostat
Fridge Temp. Range: 28.4°F - 50 °F
Freezer Temp. Range: up to 5 °F
572 W/24hrs set for -14 freezer +4 in fridge
LED Error code display on compressor
8 ft battery cable cord
Additional Features:
9 cu.ft 12V and 24V DC Refrigerator
Super Efficient 2.7" of Insulation in the Freezer
(24V DC): 572 Whrs/24hrs Stable Running
The World's Leading Compressor – Danfoss/Secop
Features an Inline 15W Fuse
Interesting idea, but only half the interior size of our Samsung residential. Don't think that would work for us, and we're light eaters!
They also sell a propane/110 volt backup power 9.7 cu ft
Very interesting and good to know this is available thru Costco. We are still using our original gas/electric Norcold fridge in our 1997 U270 with no issues (except the need to defrost monthly). We like boondocking and if the time comes to replace we don't want to go with a 110v residential fridge due to the need for big investment in batteries and solar, etc. Wondering if this Unique 9.0 CuFt Solar Powered DC Refrigerator is substantially more efficient being 120v and smaller. If so we might get by with the stock batts or add 2 more and 1-2 hours gen running daily when not plugged into shore power. Hopefully someone has experience with this product that can tell us their experience.
Carl I appreciated the draw stated in the ad as most don't have that info included. I rounded the draw stated up to 600w a day or 50A. No inverter required. Our curbside floor plan puts the fridge directly over the battery compartment so it is an easy run. You may want to track your actual usage patterns for awhile if you haven't already done so.
We also have a 97 270 and the original batteries fell short of providing what our usage pattern required. I looked at adding 2 8ds but after pricing the mods and lifeline costs I went another direction. With our solar charging we can easily pick draw up in an hour. On rainy cloud covered days it might take 2.5 - 3. Nothing to date would require generator time. But that is one persons approach amongst many here. I only thought I was frugal until joining our mix.
Would be interesting to know if "12 VDC" translates to real world RV voltage-- 11.8- 14.2".
Said another way, how voltage sensitive are they.
X2 on voltage sensitivity. One would think as it is 12V it would mean battery voltage. But you don't know for sure until you ask.
And, the other question gives some of the other recent discussions of residential refrigerators is: Are they warranted for RV use?
BTW, the Cosco write up does not reflect an "electrically savvy" ad person:
"Features an Inline 15W Fuse for Protection"
Don't recall seeing fuses rated in watts. That would be 15 watts divided by 12 VDC= 1.25 amp fuse!
That is a problem with many of these ads even when there is a person with some knowledge as we found on others. We should see the field results soon on the JC Refrigeration unit.
Unique has a website at Unique Off Grid (http://uniqueoffgrid.com) They show several additional sizes of DC fridges, as well as a helpful spec for total watt/hour draw in 24 hours. The catalog mentions they use a Danfoss/Secop compressor. I just gave it a quick scan, but I didn't see any mention of RVs in the manual at all.
A propane/AC powered RV fridge is still by far the best option in my mind if you have made the enclosure fire resistive as possible. The huge amount of propane we have on board will power the fridge for a lengthy time if not connected to shore power. Changeover is automatic with shore power the default setting. Much less battery draw means less solar required up top, less AH for batteries and lower percentage of discharge means longer house battery life.
How easy is it going to be to fit the Costco fridge into a space where a RV fridge was and how easy is it to secure it in place?
What to do about keeping the doors closed without looking shade tree?
How about choice of front panels? The white would look terrible in many coaches.
Does it have alarms for open door, voltage, etc, etc?
Pierce
In regards to voltage sensitivity, it is pretty straightforward. The Danfoss/Secop, now known as Nidec compressors just invert the DC into three phase AC to drive the "brushess DC motor" basically a three phase wye connected AC motor. This is similar to most modern refrigerators, only you gain a level of efficiency by not inverting battery to 110, then dc rectification before going back to ac into the compressor.
the Nidec controller used on the Unique fridge is able to handle 9-17v in 12v mode and 19-27v in the 24v mode. Some Nidec controllers also have a solar mode which will accept 10-45vdc input for power directly from panels with no battery or charge controller in the circuit. Unsure if they are using one with this capability in the Unique fridge.
All in all would be an excellent choice for an RV, but the 12v conversion kit offered by JC is basically the same thing that fits our existing fridge. It would be especially awesome if the JC kit used r600a refrigerant as it operates at lower pressures and is far more efficient, although it is flammable, poses a far lower risk of fire than the propane/ammonia system.