Got a question for The Collective: what is the purpose of the translucent flat panel directly above your head when standing in the shower. Our OEM skylight is cracked and due for replacement. From searching this subject on the Forum, I have learned that a replacement is available at Lowe's. Barry & Cindy wrote a excellent photo tutorial on the complete replacement process, so "How To Do It" is not a problem:
Replacing Shower Skylight (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16677)
The replacement skylight comes with two pieces - a clear inner "bubble" and a tinted outer piece. Together, they provide a insulting "dead air" space. So why do we need the flat interior panel? What purpose does it serve, besides limiting head room (not a concern for the DW and I).
Inquiring minds (me) want to know!
:help:
I may have answered my own question. Careful study of Barry & Cindy's tutorial shows that the replacement domes may not have a wide enough flange to reach the edge of the existing metal frame. The flat translucent panel might serve to span the gap between the dome flange and the original metal frame. I will be able to verify this theory when I actually start taking our old skylight apart.
Until then, my question stands.
It will be interesting to see what you will discover, especially since I am sure you will document the process with pictures, sources, and links! ^.^d Fortunately, our skylight is still intact but time will win out in the end and this will eventually be on my project list. ::)
Don
Chuck. My guess is that the new skylight will not match up to the coach trim that covers the aluminum frame. But it might. I suppose there built different now than they were in 1994. Removed, cleaned and resealed ours in 2015.
Chuck : Unless things have changed Lowes has dropped the item from their inventory. Fear not I have the solution. Contacted the manufacturer directly. Majestic Plastics 937-593-9500. The item can still be special ordered thru Lowes. It is a complicated process and most employees do not know how it's done. Majestic customer contacted our local Lowes ( Modesto CA. ) millwork dept and walked the buyer thru the process. Done deal! Arrived in 3 days. It is an EXACT fit for dome. Only bummer is it is a single piece with no inner airspace dome. But it works. About $50 if I recall correctly. Have attached a picture of the dome with UPC and part number. Going to send that separately as I have tried twice to connect it with this text. Good Luck!
Well the picture did not come out very good.
Item number is 2424050850
The customer service lady at Majestic was awesome, wish I could remember her name.
Our skylight is fine (knock knock, as we're parked under some very old trees and we do get the monsoons here!) Looks like the PO installed a cover with velcro strips, but must have thrown it and the cover for the fan away before we bought the coach. No matter, we like the 'glow'. ^.^d
I replace my cracked two piece shower skylight with one flat piece of dark 1/4 inch thick Lexan, cut to fit.
I had to dremel out the screw holes of the mounting frame because the Lexan was thicker than the OEM two piece cover.
Thanks for the info on the alternative source, but may not be necessary to jump through all those hoops. I guess these kinds of items must come and go in various store inventories. This is the first time I have actually looked for the replacement domes. Our local (Odessa, TX) Lowe's shows to have 4 of them in stock - the exact same part number mentioned in Barry & Cindy's tutorial. I'll get by there this weekend and check them out. Will report again on this project as it goes forward.
Shop Skyview Fixed Impact Skylight (Fits Rough Opening: 21-in x 21-in;... (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skyview-Fixed-Impact-Skylight-Fits-Rough-Opening-21-in-x-21-in-Actual-26-in-x-26-in/3455156)
On our coach the trim that goes around the ceiling opening and then vertically on four sides to the flat whitish plastic sheet covers up the core of the roof structure. The joint between the vertical trim and the horizontal plastic sheet needs to be well sealed. If not condensation will get between the flat plastic and the trim and run down to the inside roof structure. I took mine all apart, sealed everything up and added come closed cell foam insulation between the roof structure and the vertical sides of the trim. With a bead of silicone glass sealer all around the flat plastic I pushed the vertical sides of the trim piece into position and then smoothed out the inside joint.
An easy place to overlook leaks from inside. It is work making sure it is sealed up well.
I ordered mine from Foretravel on Tuesday and it arrived about an hour ago.... it was taken out in a hail storm and has been taped up for almost a year.
I renamed this thread, and will add to it as I go about rebuilding my skylight. I now have the answer to my question in the Original Post.
Roger (Reply #9) essentially answered my question, but in a roundabout way. He mentioned that the flat interior panel provides a sealing surface to keep shower moisture from getting behind the shower trim and into the ceiling. Which is true. However, the REAL reason it is needed is due to the way Foretravel installed the skylight. The photos below show my disassembly of our skylight. I removed 8 sheet metal screws, and then lifted the top metal frame piece up and off. Next I ran a knife around under the amber "bubble" and the translucent white sheet. Those 2 pieces were glued together, so they came off together. After that, you are looking down into the hole in the roof, which is surrounded by the bottom metal frame piece for the skylight. Notice that the hole in the roof is not centered in the metal frame. It is offset so that on two sides the gap between frame and hole are much smaller than on the other two sides. This should be obvious in the photos.
Because the skylight frame is not spaced evenly around the opening in the roof, the amber tinted bubble cannot seal properly against the trim on the inside of the shower. It touches the trim on two sides, but there is a big gap on the other two sides. To bridge this gap, Foretravel installed the flat translucent inside panel. If they had mounted the skylight frame with the roof hole properly centered, the amber bubble would have sealed against the inside trim as it was designed. Of course, then you would get a lot more heat coming in because the dead air space between the flat panel and the bubble would be missing.
My first thought on rebuilding our skylight was to replace the single OEM outside "bubble" with only the new 2-piece set from Lowe's (link in Reply #8), and do away with the flat interior panel. The double bubble assembly would provide the required insulating dead air space. But, due to the problem described above, I would also need to replace our inner flat translucent panel, since it is cracked and leaking. I could use either a clear or a translucent panel for that purpose, but would probably go with translucent to cut down on solar gain in the shower stall.
Instead, I have changed my mind and decided to follow Wyatt's lead (Reply #7). I don't see any real point in having the 2-piece bubble up there, since it isn't accomplishing anything but acting as a tree limb and hail magnet. I am going to try using a simple 24" x 24" flat sheet of material in the existing metal frame, same as Wyatt, but with a twist. He used 1/4" thick tinted solid Lexan - I will try using a more high-tech material.
I've been reading about Lexan Thermoclear 15 high performance multiwall polycarbonate. It is available in a 8mm thick Softlite double wall sheet, which will fit nicely in the metal frame. I believe this product has some outstanding characteristics that make it well suited to this application. I am now in the process of looking for a (reasonable) online source for the material, since I haven't found any locally. I will report again when I have it in hand. See link below for more info:
Lexan* Thermoclear* 15 | High performance multiwall polycarbonate sheets. (https://www.ameriluxinternational.com/lexan_thermoclear_15.php)
Chuck....where did you get those shoes....been lookin for some time.?? :o :o :o
Go ahead, Chuck, make him a deal. Even a fraction of a coach buck should do.
Where I get
all my wearables...WALMART, of course. Bought several pairs last summer - haven't seen them any more this summer. :'(
Chuck, if you get moisture leaking between the flat panel and the vertical sides the roof structure gets wet, not good, and you get brown water dripping on the floor of the shower. Maybe it is hot enough in TX to self dry. Not here when I fixed mine.
Lexan is very tough. I made Lexan storm windows to cover the stained glass windows on the stairway landing in our old house. It should make a good replacement for the bubble. You might want to verify that the Thermoclear will work as you intend. This stuff is commonly used for green houses and often needs weep holes to drain interior condensation.
Before you drill Lexan or Plexiglass, read up on it or you may crack it. We dull the bit a little so it does not catch and crack, especially important on plexi. Drill larger than you need to allow for expansion. Relieve the hole on both sides so there is not a sharp 90 degree edge.
You can buy pre-dulled drills just for plastic.
Pierce
Plexiglass is much more brittle than Lexan. Plastics are usually drilled with bits that have a much larger angle on the end and often a starter point or for production work a Fuller tapered bit.
Yes, I know there is a chance that it might not work. I consider this a science experiment. No big deal! if it doesn't work out, I'll just remove it and go back to my first plan with the Lowe's double dome and a new flat inner panel.
Sealing the top of the side trim for water tight fit.
Chuck, our replacement is still holding up fine.
Barry & Cindy,
My compliments (again) on your excellent photo tutorial. It is clear, easy to follow, and to the point. A first class presentation!
You guys lucked out when you purchased the 2' x 2' flat white panel from Encore RV. Since they are no longer in business, that source dried up. In a big city there are places to buy material like this, but out in the sticks where we live, it is hard to find. I have found several online sources for polycarbonate sheet material, but the quoted shipping charges, even for a small piece, are exorbitant. The search continues...
I agree with you and Roger - properly sealing the inside shower trim piece to the outside panel (whatever is used) is critical to making the shower water tight. It doesn't help that the inside trim piece is kinda flimsy. I think Roger had a good idea when he added some material behind the trim piece sides to give it some added support.
You can get Lexan up to 1/2" thick.
Lexan 9034 Polycarbonate Sheets, .062 to .500 thicknesses (http://kmac-plastics.net/lexan-9034.htm#.W3leBRopChA)
The extra side material added some insulation to help prevent condensation on the vertical walls on the roof hole side.
I know "You can get it..."
The problem is finding a place that will sell me a small (24" x 24") piece for a total shipped price that does not require the sale of a kidney.
Lexan will stop a bullet but you need to see if it has UV treatment. Check specs before buying. Otherwise, it yellows and deteriorates in just a few years. If it gets scratched, you can't sand and buff like Plexi. Thats why aircraft use Plexi. Not much difference in price with Lexan only being ten or fifteen percent more.
Pierce
Yes - a very good tip. I have been schooling myself on plastic sheet products. Lots to learn. Never really studied on them before.
As you say, for this application, UV protection (on one side) would be very desirable. It is offered on some of the Polycarbonate products I am considering. It is interesting comparing the differences between Polycarbonate (Lexan) and Acrylic (Plexiglas). They both have pros and cons. Which is better depends a lot on location. The totally exposed, horizontal mounting position on roof of motorhome is challenging to any material.
UPDATE:
I have located a outfit that will sell a single piece of 24" x 24" solid sheet material for a reasonable price, including shipping. They offer a pretty good selection, in a wide range of thickness and color. If all you want to do is reproduce the OEM factory skylight installation, then they can fix you up. They have a 1/8" thick white translucent Plexiglas panel that would be a perfect replacement for the original interior shower panel. Pair this with the Lowe's 2-piece skylight kit, and you would be good to go!
1/8" White Plexiglass Acrylic Sheets #2447 - Precut and Cut-to-Size (https://www.estreetplastics.com/2447-1-8-white-plexiglass-acrylic-sheets-s/102.htm)
Chuck,
I have had good luck at getting this type material from the local commercial glass company. They usually have end cuts from where they have had to custom fit Plexiglas for various jobs. Most of what they have though is like 1/4" thick but it may pay to check.
Mike
I have followed this thread and a thought just occurred to me. If you were to experience hail, and you have only one layer of protection from the elements, you might find yourself in an uncomfortable situation..?...or am I misreading your projected repair process?
Lynn,
If I go with my "flat single layer of material" idea, it will be thick enough to be virtually hail-proof. A 1/4" or 3/8" thick sheet of either polycarbonate or acrylic is more than strong enough to stand up to any normal hail. In the unlikely event of a "100 Year Hail Storm", losing the skylight might be the least of my worries!
All of the Lexan Sheet material in the link I provided above is UV stabilized. The south facing storm windows I made for stained glass window protection are more than 25 yrs old now and holding up well.
I wonder if two layers of 3/16" compared to a single 3/8" layer might have more impact resistance to hail? Maybe some more springiness to it. Just wondering. Worth asking the question. From an applied steady load POV, no.
Roger: I thought about 2 layers, but I wonder if I would end up with a lot of moisture (condensation) trapped between the panes.
I was just out in the coach looking at the skylight, pondering my options. The flat white panel has been removed, so I just have the old brown dome up on the roof to keep dirt and bugs out. It's near 100 here today, and there is a LOT of heat coming through that dome! I'm starting to think a single layer of polycarbonate (or acrylic), even if it is pretty thick, might not be the best solution for our part of the country. With no cover over our coach, the flat panel will get very hot, and much of that heat will be transferred directly to the interior of the shower stall, and thence into the coach.
Because of the design of the metal frame, I am limited in how thick I can go on the flat panel idea. I think 3/8" is about it...1/2" thick MIGHT fit but it would be a squeeze. That makes it hard to construct a home-built 2 or 3 layer flat panel with insulating dead air space between the panes. The individual panes would have to be too thin.
Perhaps It is better to just rebuild the skylight back to OEM factory design. Using the 2-layer replacement dome would reduce the heat transfer over the old stock configuration. I'll make up my mind after I get to town tomorrow and look at the Lowe's skylight.
All this thinking is making my head hurt. Time for a cold one! :thumbsup:
Most light aircraft that normally cruise over 200 mph have a quarter inch of Plexi used for the windshield and survive hail at that speed without problems. A 1/8 inch sheet of Lexan could survive golf ball sized hail without a problem. Either plastic glues well and could have a narrow half inch strip glued between the two layers at opposite ends leaving an open airspace for air circulation. It could also have a nice radius made on the edges so it would look good too. I don't know about Lexan but Plexi is available tinted to reduce the glare and heat a bit. Sort of like cars with the side windows tinted in the Southwest.
How to cut Plexiglass on a table saw without chipping it: how to cut lexan or plexiglass on a table saw - Penelusuran Google (https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+cut+lexan+or+plexiglass+on+a+table+saw&oq=how+to+cut+lexan+or+plexiglass+on+a+table+saw&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i64.17939j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
This bronze Thermoclear Lexan might be just the ticket if you can get smaller sizes. A lot of the time, HD has smaller pieces of the P and L plastics: https://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-Thermoclear-48-in-x-96-in-x-1-4-in-Bronze-Multiwall-Polycarbonate-Sheet-PCTW4896-6MMBZ/205202489
Pierce
Maybe an escape hatch would work. Opens for venting too. 5 sizes. Creative thinking is encouraged.
RV Escape Hatch 22x22 - RV Parts Nation (https://www.rvpartsnation.com/rv-exterior/rv-vents/rv-roof-vent/rv-escape-hatch-22x22/)
I kinda like that. Too bad it's not 24"x24", would drop right in.
I think I saw a 24x24 size. Maybe a different brand.
UPDATE - since I know everyone is on the edge of their seats...
Got by the Lowe's in Odessa. They had 4 of the #227698 Skyview skylight kits, as advertised online. 3 of them were pretty beaten up, but one was in good shape. After hemming & hawing for a bit, I went ahead and grabbed it. I've decided to go back with the stock skylight configuration. I can't find any "flat" substitute material that would provide equivalent insulation from heat transfer.
Shop Skyview Fixed Impact Skylight (Fits Rough Opening: 21-in x 21-in;... (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skyview-Fixed-Impact-Skylight-Fits-Rough-Opening-21-in-x-21-in-Actual-26-in-x-26-in/3455156)
Got the skylight home and unwrapped. I agree with Barry & Cindy - the aluminum frame is very cheap and will be discarded. On the other hand, the (lightly tinted) bronze and clear polycarbonate bubbles are very nice! They are totally transparent, nicely shaped to fit one inside the other, and perfectly sized for our original skylight frame. The material is thin - about 3mm - but the bubble shape adds a lot of strength. They have some "give" to them, so a big hail stone or golf ball would probably just bounce off rather than causing any noticeable damage. There is a 1" dead air space between the two bubbles, which should greatly enhance the insulation value.
The original 1/8" flat white acrylic interior panel in our coach was weak and flimsy, and had cracked in multiple places. Even with the new double dome, I think I will have room in the frame for a thicker, stronger white panel. To test that theory, I will try 2 of them. I ordered both 3/16" and 1/4" thick pieces (24" x 24"), in the #2447 White, which is supposed to let the most light through. When they arrive, I will report again.
#2447 White Plexiglass Sheets (https://www.estreetplastics.com/2447-White-Plexiglass-Sheets-s/101.htm)
In the meantime, I will get the two domes glued together with silicone sealant, as described in Barry's tutorial:
Replacing Shower Skylight (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_shower_skylight.html)
By the way, while at Lowe's, I noticed they have another skylight model with the same dimensions. It appears to have the same double bubble design, but the outside dome is translucent white instead of transparent amber. Just thought I would mention, in case it is of interest to anyone. My DW wants the max amount of daylight (but not heat) coming through the skylight, because she keeps her house plants in the shower stall when we are traveling. So for us, the amber dome set is preferable.
Shop Skyview Fixed Impact Skylight (Fits Rough Opening: 21-in x 21-in;... (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skyview-Fixed-Impact-Skylight-Fits-Rough-Opening-21-in-x-21-in-Actual-27-in-x-27-in/3455074)
Chuck,
Really nice writeup!
P
For storage and hot summer days, I climb on the roof and cover the skylight with a thick white blanket. Reduces the heat load substantially. I've pondered closing up the skylight hole, because a) I'm short and b) added heat boon docking is a big deal.
I made a "plug" from a flat piece of white styrofoam packing material. It's about 2" thick, and I trimmed it so it's a snug "friction" fit in the opening above the shower. When our coach is parked in our driveway between trips, I use it to block all the heat and light coming through the skylight. When we're on the road, I pull it out and store it in the drawer under the sofa.
Just out of curiosity, Chuck, try going up top after the styrofoam has been in the skylight on a hot sunny day and see how hot the outside dome is.
I found that when I put aluminized bubble wrap inside our coach windows it got so hot it burned my hand.
Oh, I know it gets hot! The metal frame on the skylight gets so hot around noon time that I literally cannot touch it without wearing gloves. The plastic bubble also gets very hot, which is one reason why they eventually start to break down and crack. Still, our original 1-piece dome lasted over 20 years before it started to fail. I don't think my styrofoam plug could do very much to further increase the outside temp of the dome, but it sure does help reduce the inside temp in the shower stall.
UPDATE
So, I received my two sheets of milky white plexiglas from estreetplastics in good order. They were very nicely packed to preclude any sort of damage, and shipped the next day after I ordered them. I highly recommend their service if you ever need any plastic material!
Plexiglass Acrylic and Other Plastics - Precut Sheets or Cut To Size -... (https://www.estreetplastics.com)
I took both white sheets (3/16" and 1/4") up on our roof along with the 2-piece bubble, and tried them out. Jeannie and I both found the thinner piece preferable - she because it let through slightly more light, and I because it fit better (along with the double dome) in the metal skylight frame. The 3/16" sheet is more than twice as thick as the original interior panel, so it should be stronger and last longer. We'll see...
I left the new white sheet and glued-together 2-piece dome in place on the roof for most of the day while we evaluated the way they performed. Temps were over 100 degrees in the afternoon. When I brought the dome back inside that evening, I discovered that my glue job had failed. :'( The sealant had become kinda soft and gooey, and the domes were pulling apart. This was a surprise! I thought I used the same stuff mentioned in Barry's tutorial. What I used was GE 100% Silicone 2+ Clear. It is supposed to have a service temp of -60F to 400F. It seemed to set up and cure properly when I stuck the two domes together in the house, but it obviously didn't like the heat on the coach roof. I pulled the domes apart and removed the failed sealant. So it's back to square 1 on putting the skylight assembly together.
I am now researching the best product for joining the polycarbonate parts. I am leaning toward 3M VHB clear double-sided tape. I wll look around in town tomorrow to see if I can find some. If not, back to Amazon.
3M 5200? 3m 4200?
Tim Fiedler
Same thing happened to me. The dome corners would not retain a flat profile and kind of rolled up, thus breaking the seal. I finally got it in (after three tries) and it was fine. That is... until it cracked! Eternabond fixed the crack and now I am following this thread hoping for inspiration.
jor
3M 5200 sounded promising, until I got to the bottom of the spec sheet.
"3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200 is
not recommended for the installation of glass,
polycarbonate or acrylic windows that are not also mechanically fastened with a system designed by the manufacturer.
Inconsistent adhesion of these unprimed substrates, specific design of the window, and
movement due to thermal expansion and flexing, may cause application failure."
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/576967O/3mtm-marine-adhesive-sealant-fast-cure-5200.pdf
The place where I got the plexiglas sheets sells some adhesive, but it sounds kinda messy and a hassle to work with. I am hoping to find a more simple solution...hence my interest in thin, clear, double-sided tape.
Weld On 16 (https://www.estreetplastics.com/Weld-On-16-s/309.htm)
3M™ VHB™ Tape 4910 | 3M United States (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-VHB-Tape-4910/?N=5002385+3293242444&rt=rud)
Finally finished the skylight install. Been so dang hot here in West TX that I only want to work outside in the early morning, and then not long. 8)
Anyway, I decided to use some 3M VHB mounting tape I found at Home Depot. It is black, not clear, but I found out it doesn't matter because you can't see the tape looking up through the skylight from inside the shower stall. So black works fine.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-11-1-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414-LONGDC/205507375
I think the VHB tape is much better suited to this job. I left the skylight assembly up on the roof for a couple hot days to test it. The tape was not (obviously) bothered by the heat. I hope it will hold up well for the long term, but only time will tell.
The final assembly of the double domes and the 3/16" thick white plexiglass panel made a "sandwich" roughly 1/2" thick at the edges. This necessitated drilling new "slanted" screw holes in the metal hold-down frame. I filled the old holes with a dab of GOOP sealer...just because.
Photos below show the final appearance. I will add another couple photos after I get done caulking the interior trim piece.
👍👍 Nice job Chuck
In my reply #23 shows how the '81 was hinged to let steam out or air in.
Shower Skylight (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=27779.msg228382#msg228382)
That looks like the same idea as Roger mentioned, earlier in this thread. Does what you are saying, and doubles as a emergency escape hatch.
Chuck...our leak around the trim inside the shower started today. We're still on the road and rain still in the forecast for several days. I'll try and get up top in the brief pauses to look but not likely a fix I can do quickly until we get home Nov 1. I'm considering a short term fix with eternabond on the outside of the frame depending on what I find. Any changes to your permanent solution now that you have it in place for a while?
As a temporary fix can I remove metal frame cover and run 4" eternabond over the edges of the dome and the side of the metal base and then replace the cover? Obviously if the plastic is cracked I'd put eternabond there too.
The downside is later removing the eternabond on the edges of the metal base.
My skylight rebuild has been water tight so far, and we have had some heavy rain storms since I finished it. We are very happy with how it came out, and how much light it lets in to the bathroom area.
Yes, your "temporary fix" would work fine. Before I got around to rebuilding, our brown plastic dome was badly cracked, and leaking. I used Crystal Clear Gorilla Tape to seal up the cracks. It held up very well for a couple months in the TX summer heat, and totally stopped the water leakage. Also, it was not too hard to remove from the metal frame...I pulled the tape off and then used Goof Off to remove the sticky residue.
Crystal Clear Gorilla Tape | Gorilla Glue (https://www.gorillatough.com/product/crystal-clear-gorilla-tape/)
Chuck, initial search at Lowe's shows your skylight out of stock. Could this size work?
Shop Sun-Tek Fixed Miami-Dade Skylight (Fits Rough Opening: 22.5-in x... (https://m.lowes.com/pd/Sun-Tek-Fixed-Miami-Dade-Skylight-Fits-Rough-Opening-22-5-in-x-22-5-in-Actual-27-25-in-x-27-25-in/4755983)
Randy, if you can't see any visible reason for leakage, take the aluminum hold down frame off and flip it over so you can see the surfaces that contact the plastic dome. Check the corners where they are welded. You might see a "gob" of weld sticking up. This "gob", when the frame is installed will break the corners of your dome, and will hold the frame up just enough to leak.
That is what I found on our shower dome frame. I ground the "gob" down flush on each corner and then resealed the assembly. This was about five years ago and still no leaks.
I can't tell from the description if that model would work with the existing metal base. The "key" to using the existing base is to find a replacement
dome that measures exactly 24" x 24"
at the outside edge. Anything smaller would not work. A dome that is
slightly larger
might work with some trimming of the outer edges. I am guessing the model you linked might be too big, but like I said, they don't give the dimensions of the plastic dome, so I can't tell. If you can go to the store and actually measure the size of the dome, then you would know for sure.
You don't want to have to remove the original metal base unless absolutely necessary. It is screwed down with MANY screws, plus well sealed with white goop. If at all possible, you want to reuse the metal base.
Where are you located right now. Lowe's still has the model I used in stock. Could you arrange to have it shipped to your location (or some future location)? Taping up the cracks in your old dome should stop the leaks until you can get around to replacing it.
Shop Skyview Fixed Impact Skylight (Fits Rough Opening: 21-in x 21-in;... (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skyview-Fixed-Impact-Skylight-Fits-Rough-Opening-21-in-x-21-in-Actual-26-in-x-26-in/3455156)
Chuck. That link shows unavailable in store or ship. To be clear, using the attached diagram, is it the C + D dimension you State should be 24x24?
Yes, that is the critical dimension to reuse the old metal base. Should be very close to 24x24.
Did you check stores in other areas? If you can find one in stock, they might transfer it to a store near your location?
Randy,
A couple of other possibilities. Back in my original writeup, I mentioned that I saw another skylight at our local Lowes. It appeared to be the same size and shape (same brand also) as the one I purchased. Only difference was the dome looked like it was white translucent, instead of bronze transparent. You might check the stores near you for that model:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Skyview-Fixed-Impact-Skylight-Fits-Rough-Opening-21-in-x-21-in-Actual-27-in-x-27-in/3455074
I also see that Home Depot carries one that looks like the right size, but once again you would need to measure the dome to be sure:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sunoptics-Prismatic-2-ft-x-2-ft-Fixed-Curb-Mounted-Pyramid-Skylight-PYCUSTW26-625L26-625TGZ50CC2LENSCLWHCL80/203271017
Hopefully out of rainy Kansas City today. Need to find a dry location to investigate leak source....see second leak post.
Check out reply #4 and # 5 on this thread from a couple months back. Has the Lowes special order process for replacement.
While replacing our two roof vent covers today, I noticed a hole in our shower bubble. Don't remember seeing it last week while replacing the ac covers. Anyway, have decided to replace when we get to Ladies Driving School next week. using FT's replacement part # STD2424BC $142.48. Lowes part is not available, so I will be taking the path of least resistance.
Thanks all for your comments and Chuck for your excellent write up. ^.^d
Chuck thanks for the amazing write-up seems like I'm in need of that today. Coming back to the house instead of backing and I pulled in forward to the driveway. Needed to do some work on the driver's side of the coach. Neighbors tree hadn't been trimmed for a little bit and it decided to impact with the skylight. Pretty sure that skylight is the original and is seen a lot of UV. So now I have no skylight it was in pieces in the driveway. Looked online at Lowe's and the nearest it was available was in Port Aransas, a 19 mile drive away. So my son and I took a ride and $118 later I had a new skylight. Looks like I know what I'll be doing on Father's day.
I like your idea of using VHB tape. So I'll use that.
Also have to finish up my electrical install for the electric waste valves as well as switches for the electric hose reels. Maybe I can get that done tomorrow as well.
Again thanks for the ride up to really helpes.
Bob
Done. Got the skylight at Lowe's for 118$ plus tax. Discarded the metal frames. Removed the old metal housing. The inner part was fine. Scraped as much calk as I could. Put new piece down and used geocel as a caulk. Butyl tape on top of the new skylight. The old holes didn't line up so drilled new ones and sealed up the old ones
Also took off my rear ladder. Going to put the new one on when the thunderstorm passes.
The old screws were bad.
Didn't take a final pic. Thunderstorm coming in.
Mine was leaking so I took it off and replaced the screws with SS screws. It's not leaking anymore.
Our skylight has needed repair for awhile now, fortunately not leaking, so not urgent.
Using this writeup all parts are now ordered.
Thanks Chuck!
My skylight is cracked. I want to put a vent/fan in place of the useless skylight so that shower steam gets pulled directly out of the shower enclosure, instead of steaming up the whole coach. Thinking of a fiberglass flange with a Fantastic vent. Anyone done this?
I replaced our broken dome with a 1/4" tinted lexan piece plus a 1/8" piece about the size of the upper frame section. When it is in place and caulked water has no edge on which to collect. The tint is maybe 20% so you can see through it, blue sky in the day or stars at night. Much tougher than the original, twice as thick, lower profile. < $60 for the plastic.
Link to Barry's post, 1997 FT
Replacing our shower skylight (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16677.msg107951#msg107951)
Here's what I'm thinking. Replace the entire double dome with this.
Amazon.com: Heng's (68631C2 26" x 26" Exit Vent: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Hengs-68631C2-26-Exit-Vent/dp/B007HRIECU)
No fan, but using existing Fantastic bathroom fan "In" mode to exhaust shower steam out this vent.
Thoughts?
Woody.
Thanks for the link to the "NEW AND IMPROVED" ex-beamalarm technical reference site.
Very irritating that every existing link to beamalarm.com (in old posts) now does not work.
I find the new MOT site very time-consuming to navigate, and not at all intuitive. I really miss Barry's clean, simple, 2-click interface.
But, it is what it is, and we will have to learn to live with the new site.
It appears it goes to old page, and says not available. If you look at top of that page, you just click on new site, and then go to what you are looking for under tech. It appears they have just run many pages togeather, with such things as filters hoses, etc., and skylights.
It appears it goes to old page, and says not available, "404 page not found". Just keep going. If you look at top of that page, you just click on new site, allthingsforetravel, and then go to what you are looking for under "technical info". It appears they have just run many pages togeather, with such things as filters hoses, etc., and skylights.
Relating to Jack's link to our skylight update details and photos...
Everything is still working just fine without any problems.
Replacing Shower Skylight (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:exterior:skylight)