Hi,
This is my first post! I'm a new ForeTravel owner, purchased a 1986 model in June and it seems to be having A/C issues with motor chassis unit located upfront between the drive and passenger seats.
I'm trying to determine how to access the from heat coil and A/C unit. The issue: 1) the housing is totally carpeted and stapled inplace, and 2) I'm not able to find any type of release in or around the housing.
Can anyone help?
Thanks Bob
Bob,
Please tell us what model 1986 you have.
Exactly what are you trying to access/fix?
Everything is up front under the screwed on cover of the sheet metal box located between the 2 front hatch doors.
Bob, access to all your control are under the dash pad, you'll have to lift up on the dash pad above your instrument gauges to the left and all the way to the right above your glove box.
Looking at your pic, PO added the table which looks like it is hiding the HWH leveling controls
Are you describing the carpeted engine cover ??? We have an 86 Grand Villa and the engine cover ( dog house) is held down in place with two side rubber straps with connectors on the end that lock down the cover. We check our engine oil, filers etc from underneath... all of the electronics, fuses, AC hoses, etc are under the padded dash... lift up BOTH ends of the padded dash. It feels like it will not come up but it will.. its hinged along the back at windshield side... it will come up...
Solutions would be quicker and easier if we knew what you are driving.
The op has an ored and the carpeted area he is talking about does not house the ac, but rather the fresh water tank. The ac is accessed by lifting the dash panel and then he can see where it is at and also part of it is located outside and is accessed by opening the 2 front doors.
Alrighty then......... As I recall, the only thing under the dash is the air vent control box and the temp selector assembly by the ignition switch. The guts are inside those compartment doors on the front as mentioned. I forget the name of the manufacturer but they WERE in Ft. Worth and out of bidness (as they say in Texas).
Would love to see more photos of your 86. We just make our first FT purchase in June also.... we have an 86 FEG... 454 Chevy 33' with a tag axle..
I think red tractor is right, looks like an ORED. A/C probably on the passenger side access may best by removing starboard grille.
Thanks for all the feedback... I'm the new guy... and will learn to provide better info when asking question in the near future.
Model: 3600 OREG
Truck Maker: Oshkosh
Truck Model: V-917-2
Engine: 3208-T-250
I'll get some better photo's next time I'm up in Cheyenne, its housed on FE Warren AFB.
So, I'm looking to access the Heater Core and Condenser up front where the Drive and Passenger sit. I've already access behind and under the dashboard and see the exhaust vents coming out, what I'm stumped with is just how to access the interior of the core.
My outcome is to either repair, or rebuild, the heater & A/C control on the dash. If that fails then I'm hoping to install a generic style system in place.
Back Ground: This RV has been housed inside all of it's life and is in exceptional condition. It has some weak points, be it due to age, such as the Headlight Switch, the rear directional (stop, brake, turn, running lights). Plus the chassis A/C & Heater are not functioning... I suspect it's the 1986 Chrysler control unit that's having the issue since it cam out to a few pieces. I've looked through the posts on this issue and found that one can either spend a great deal of money on eBay to purchase a control unit OR invest in a newer system (generic) that will fit within the same space and location.
Thanks again everyone and will be looking forward to more GREAT advice! Bob
If you have a 3208-T-250 wouldn't that be a diesel? And wouldn't your coach be an ORED (Diesel) rather than an OREG (Gas)?
Nitehawk is correct... my error :o
Model: 3600 ORED
Truck Maker: Oshkosh
Truck Model: V-917-2
Engine: 3208-T-250
You have about the same as I have. Heres my take on the dash AC /Heat.
AC ; 60 ft of old hose and stuff that needs to hold R12 inside. It will leak and be problematic at the least and expensive no matter. But First. See if it has any pressure. Static should be 150psi MOL . If it has pressure, add 12 V to the compressor clutch wire and see what happens .Maybe it will cool a bit. If the control panel wont pass 12 V to the compressor , trace the path. I dont think a relay is involved but could be wrong. A 25 amp toggle switch wil serve the function jut fine if the controller panel is faulty. My clutch wire was melted in the engine bay. I left the belt and wire off.
If no pressure, fill up the propane tank and fire up one of the overhead AC units. One or the other has to work or the bus will be unusable. They fix pretty easy . Add pressure and the blower are about it. I use the
front overhead @ 85 +. MY 5.5 genset wont run both. The OE 6.5 should .
Front heat; The heater box is behind the pass side front hood. The water connections feed the core of course. The control valve gets stuck and bends the cable inside on the control lever . Lube the valve, disconnect the cable . Pull for heat, push for off. There will be few days when you need to go from heat to off but it may happen . Mine is pushed off for Summer.. The fix might be pretty easy , cable and maybe the control box. I dont know , I have not fixed this one . The vent controls work as does the blower . Turn the vents that point at you so that they pass no air and the defog will work. These vent options are fed vacuum by the little vacuum generator on the bumper side of the dash board with a pressure line going to it . It leaks pressure on a good day. They are available tho and the system may work with most of these points addressed.
HTH but I hope to fix the heat cable soon. The rest does just fine IMHO. I dont try to live in a perfect world .
Edit for the OP question!! sorry , ADD and all that .
The little round heat ducts just above the floor between the seats; That box is the rear of the water tank ,and mine has the fill and drain valves in that box. Drain valve is pass side . Heat may come out of there when the front gas heater( under the sink) is on. Look under the couch to make sure that the hoses are connected and lead fore ward. The box /door should have a little chrome pull ring hidden in the carpet.
Mike, the 5.5 kw Genny should run both roof access units easily. Probably about 3.6 kw with both running, my new Coleman power saver is only 1.25 kw for a 13.5k btuh replacement unit. A couple of $12 hard start capacitors should help. Available at a local A/C supply house I used Supco SPP6 super boost. Two wires to hook up and clamp or foil duct to secure. Your Genny will run smoother. May want to check the oem run capacitors also. Soft starters $$$ are also available and I think jcus installed one and is happy.
Thank you all for the great feedback!!! I'll definitely use them when tackling this issue. Bob