The insulation in the front and rear cap has feel over, so basically it is doing no good. I am looking for repair ideas as this allows ALOT of heat into both the front and the rear of the coach. I considered using 3/8 inch insulation board, but haven't been able to figure out a good way to attach it to the coach to hold the original insulation up and in place.
I would like to know if anyone has dealt with this.
You might consider cleaning the old stuff off the best you can and then blow in some spray foam insulation.
Our front cap had OEM insulation slipping down after 20+ years. Like the engine well and genset hut insulation , this stuff is different, but it held-up pretty well for a longtime. I am removing it and looking for safe solutions to replace the stuff. Does anyone know what that stuff was called?
Spray foam makes me cringe a bit. I did two little buildings recently and...go slow with that!
Jerry,
I also had the drooping insulation problem inside the forward end cap. The center locker on my coach is where the DVD player etc. are located. I simply cut wooden laths to the appropriate length and wedged them behind (forward of) the plywood bulkheads that separate the three upper forward lockers. I did not fasten the battens in place but relied on friction to hold them in place. This seemed the quickest and easiest solution for me.
I don't think the spray insulation would work due to the fact getting to the clearance light wiring would be difficult if not impossible.
Richard, what thickness are the battens you used. I like the idea, but wonder if the vibration in travel would cause them to loosen.
Fastenal has these little spring loaded plungers one can put on the ends of boards to hold the boards up in place. They come in many different sizes and configurations. Different diameters, different "noses" or plungers, different spring force, etc.
Mounting is done like drilling for a wooden dowel--on the board ends. On the compartment wall all it takes is a small drill point depression for the spring plunger end to go into..
There are two kinds of spray foam, open-cell and closed-cell. Open-cell is soft and spongy and you can easily push a rod or fish tape through it or remove it.
Soundown (https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3018062) is what I plan on using. Used it on my last boat. Good stuff. Mcmaster carr also has some nice products that are not to expensive. Its high on my to do list for the front of the coach, as well as engine and generator space.
Bob
Jerry, The battens I used are just some quarter inch plywood I had on hand. Compressing the foam to fit the battens in place seems to hold them in place. A spot of wood glue would assure the would not move. Good luck
Get on Ebay and look at "Noico" products,it is a reflective stick on insulation for noise and heat,comes in different thickness and
is made in Russia,have used it in the engine and generator compartments.
Unless there is some compelling reason to remove the existing (very expensive, very effective) Soundown insulation I'd either glue it back in place using 3M aeresol glue or Jan and Richard's fix utilizing thin wedged in battens.
I have removed all of mine from the front cap as a majority of it was hanging. I don't think reattachment is really a good long term solution as it seemed that the glue used to stick the OEM material degraded the foam - it would just crumble upon being touched. The OEM material would not have structure to reattach and remain glued long term in my case. The parts that were still adhered to the cap were REALLY adhered.
Mine was completely degraded, mostly small particles. I would not want that in my living space. The engine space is also coming apart in the same way, but with that, I will probably put new sounddown on top since its not a living space. What I breath is pretty compelling...... and it will come thru cracks and other places.
Amazon.com: FatMat Hood-Liner 34" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Automotive... (https://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Hood-Liner-Self-Adhesive-Automotive-Deadening/dp/B00H6X4V7C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1535220864&sr=8-9&keywords=fatmat+self-adhesive+rattletrap+sound+deadener)
Finally finished. I found some of the left over 2in. 2lb. Insulation I used in engine compartment. Luckily I had just enough to replace the old falling insulation in front cap.
Here is a link to the product I used.
Cyber-Bridge Enterprises - Industrial Soundproofing (http://cyber-bridge-marine.com/industrial-materials.htm)
What product did you use to secure this?
Mike,
The back side has adhesive on it. You peel the back off and stick it on. It is VERY good adhesive. Then I taped the joints. It can be purchased in silver and white. I ordered silver, but they sent the white. I am so glad I didn't send it back. Unbelievable how the white brightens it. They also sell what looks like a nail with a large square head on it that you can glue on then push the nail thru the insulation and put a acorn nut on the end of the nail. I am pleased with the results.