Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: TulsaTrent on September 07, 2018, 03:32:59 am
Title: RV Tire Pads
Post by: TulsaTrent on September 07, 2018, 03:32:59 am
Several people have recommended some kind of pad under the tires for parking on concrete. Has anyone used the thick pad that TSC sells for horse stalls?
Trent
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: John44 on September 07, 2018, 06:15:30 am
Have'nt used it for that,use it for a pad in the garage,cut mine in half,it's heavey,after 4 years still is like new.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Ghallid on September 07, 2018, 08:48:45 am
Hi Trent
I use those mats from everything to workout room, shop floor and non slip around the pool. They will outlive all of us. Greg
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 07, 2018, 11:17:53 am
I have been using these Flor carpet tiles, $2.99 now Waterproof back, tough. It takes 1 per tire. Mine are more than six years old now. Watch for free shipping deals. Sometimes the random tiles are only a buck. The last ones I got were $0.75 each with coupons and free shipping.
Random Pattern Tile - Outlet - Carpet Tiles (https://www.flor.com/carpet-tiles/outlet/random-pattern-tile)
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roland Begin on September 07, 2018, 11:26:29 am
I use corplast......"plastic cardboard". Cheap. Just find a old plastic sign and cut to fit. Those plastic signs are plentiful especially after a national election.
Roland
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: John S on September 07, 2018, 03:11:22 pm
I use old carpet protectors for desk chairs. Found them pretty cheap but not 75 cents cheap.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: bigdog on September 07, 2018, 10:20:03 pm
I'll ask all you experts. My friend who allows me to park in his open breezeway garage has ground up asphalt for a floor. It's about pea sized and water just drains right out and it doesn't pack down at all. I'm thinking this shouldn't need a barrier. But I would like everyone's thoughts on that.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 07, 2018, 10:37:42 pm
Michelin recommends a waterproof barrier under the tires while stored, even a piece of plywood is OK.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Old phart phred on September 07, 2018, 11:26:26 pm
Is there like a white paper explanation of why this phenomenon happens as I think I may be missing something here, just not seeing why moisture would want to migrate through a dense rubber, high pressure vapor barrier instead of air just because water molicules are smaller than air. Sure we hopefully run dry air in our tires. What happens when you drive down a wet road and why is that different?
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 07, 2018, 11:59:41 pm
From the Michelin RV Tire Guide (attached) page 7
LONG TERM STORAGE When a tire is fitted to a wheel and put under load, but it is not regularly used, the tire does not have an opportunity to "exercise" and will prematurely age. If a recreational vehicle is not driven regularly, care must be taken to preserve the remaining life of the tires. Best practices include: 1. Store the recreational vehicle in a cool, dry, sealed garage, away from electric generators or transformers. Do not store in an area where welding is performed, or in a garage that has frequently used electric motors. 2. Place a barrier between the tire and the storage surface. Suitable barriers include plastic, plywood, cardboard, or rubber floor mats. 3. Before storing the vehicles, thoroughly clean tires with soap and water. 4. If outdoors, cover tires to block direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays. 5. Inflate tires to the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the sidewall. 6. If long term storage exceeds 3 months, consider taking the recreational vehicle for monthly highway drives (about one hour of operational time). Driving the vehicle will give the tires an opportunity to generate internal heat which will promote long life. Before removing the vehicle from long term storage, thoroughly inspect each tire, and restore all tires to the proper inflation pressure.
Roger
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: bigdog on September 08, 2018, 01:41:05 am
Is there like a white paper explanation of why this phenomenon happens as I think I may be missing something here, just not seeing why moisture would want to migrate through a dense rubber, high pressure vapor barrier instead of air just because water molicules are smaller than air. Sure we hopefully run dry air in our tires. What happens when you drive down a wet road and why is that different?
LONG TERM STORAGE When a tire is fitted to a wheel and put under load, but it is not regularly used, the tire does not have an opportunity to "exercise" and will prematurely age. If a recreational vehicle is not driven regularly, care must be taken to preserve the remaining life of the tires. Best practices include: 1. Store the recreational vehicle in a cool, dry, sealed garage, away from electric generators or transformers. Do not store in an area where welding is performed, or in a garage that has frequently used electric motors. 2. Place a barrier between the tire and the storage surface. Suitable barriers include plastic, plywood, cardboard, or rubber floor mats. 3. Before storing the vehicles, thoroughly clean tires with soap and water. 4. If outdoors, cover tires to block direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays. 5. Inflate tires to the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the sidewall. 6. If long term storage exceeds 3 months, consider taking the recreational vehicle for monthly highway drives (about one hour of operational time). Driving the vehicle will give the tires an opportunity to generate internal heat which will promote long life. Before removing the vehicle from long term storage, thoroughly inspect each tire, and restore all tires to the proper inflation pressure.
Roger
I just can't help myself. I like #2 on that Michelin list Roger. "Place a barrier between the tire and the storage surface. Suitable barriers include plastic, plywood, cardboard, or rubber floor mats." Wouldn't the barrier then become the storage surface and need yet another barrier from the new surface? I know. I'm being silly. it's an oddly worded sentence. Must be a French thing. :))
It seems odd that the reason given for barriers is to avoid oils and other harsh chemicals. But aren't plastic, Nylon carpet and rubber mats a petroleum based product and therefore contain oils? I could see PTFE (teflon) as suitable as it contains no oils and is hydrophobic. Seems like wood could absorb oils from the tires just like concrete. At some point I wonder if at least some of these are in the category of "wives' tales"
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Old phart phred on September 08, 2018, 02:51:52 am
Forum is always quite informative and helpful to many, but as unfortunately as an engineer my brain wants to know why this is the case, in my world these are known as a warranty disclaimer. Could be fact or manufacturer bs. I like to inform people of reality, doesn't line my pockets much so just call me stupid. I live a simple honest life,Not trying to imply anything as I never gave a rats ass about money!
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roland Begin on September 08, 2018, 11:18:34 am
When I park for a long period of time on cement I use a barrier between the cement and the tires. I do that because if I don't use a barrier there are six black spots on the cement when I leave. I don't have black spots on the corplast when I leave. I don't know what is leaching from the tires when I'm on cement but those black spots are empirical evidence that something is happening. It may or may not be harmful but it costs me nothing to put the corplast down and gives me peace of mind.
Roland
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Tim Fiedler on September 08, 2018, 12:02:37 pm
+1
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 08, 2018, 12:58:13 pm
I am not advocating one thing or another here. Just passing along documentation and personal experience. Do you have evidence that this is not a good idea? As far as I know Michelin is not selling tire barriers.
I don't know the exact chemistry or rationale here but I have seen the same thing that Roland has seen. What I have heard is that moisture can wick its way up to the wheels, axles, brakes and other suspension components when you park on almost any surface. The concrete floors in the barn and garage can get pretty damp when the humidity is high and the concrete is still cool in the spring.
This is one of those things that you choose to do or not. Michelin is suggesting, not requiring, a (waterproof) barrier when storing for a long time. There is no suggestion of warranty issues in this document just how to get your tires to perform as well as they can for as long as you use them. Pretty easy to do so why not? Just like inflating to the max pressure. Another no brainer for me. When we leave in January for warm it can be 50 or 60 degrees colder than when we put the coach in the barn. It is way easier at 5° to be letting some air out that putting it in.
You can do whatever you want with your tires. I am going to follow Michelin's suggestion and use a barrier and air up.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Tim Fiedler on September 08, 2018, 01:42:46 pm
My blow out was definitely water getting to the steel belts inside of carcass, no way to inspect. Agree totally when sitting, tires should be on waterproof barriers if practical Agree to inflation higher than required for load. Max pressure probably as good as anything. Ride will suffer. Some would argue (arcanely) about wet braking performance possibly suffering marginally or irregular tread wear patterns. In 12 years and 88,000 miles on Michelin's I have not seen irregular wear pattern due to my overinflation by 10 pounds in excess of required (both. My coaches were weighed loaded at all four corners, so there was no guesswork re what load was on the tires. If practical, nitrogen is theoretically slightly better than oxygen. (Costco uses nitrogen, not as a sales gimmick but best practice. "Dry" air next best. But even wet air is better for the tire than running long distance at high speeds even 10 pounds under inflated. I'm solidly (as usual) with Roger on the moisture barriers and higher than needed inflation. Michelin would say use the inflation from the load table for the tire, plus 5 pounds. At least that is what I remeber from a GranVention Seminar I Attended in the past
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Johnstons on September 08, 2018, 02:16:53 pm
This is an interesting thread.
I have always inflated to the chart and actual coach weight and not even thought about a barrier on the concrete when parked in my insulated shop.
When I was at MOT right after putting on new tires last month I was reading through the bill and it said they corrected inflation and listed pressures substantially below what I was carrying. I mentioned it to Keith and James and they said that's their sop. Keith said it will ride terrible with 110 to 115# cold. It was past closing so I didn't have them add air. I will have to admit the coach rides and handles great. I checked the temps with my infrared on the way to Virginia and back. They weren't substantially higher than the Jeep tires that were well inflated and had little weight on them.
I figure I will add air after I change the drier on my shop air and also put something under the tires.
I have a seldom used cargo trailer that sits on the dirt under the shed at the farm and I noticed the sidewalls look great on it but there is cracking in the tread so I imagine sitting on the dirt is the reason.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Roger & Susan in Home2 on September 08, 2018, 05:13:42 pm
Tim, I normally run at the pressures indicated on the charts for our actual weight. When the coach is sitting for 2 - 3 months I inflate to the max, 120 psi. I usually have to let some out when we leave in January for somewhere warm and again when we get to where it is warm.
We are on the road 5-7 months a year. I do not take tire pads with and I don't worry about it. I think the issue is sitting in one spot for a long time. But some level of practicality has to fit in here too. At home in the barn it sits on those nice carpet squares.
As with so many "best practices" do the best you can with what makes sense to you.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Tim Fiedler on September 08, 2018, 05:17:34 pm
My tires downfall was sitting 6 months at a time on sandy soil, 2nd 6 months on gravel. Both high moisture content
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Sven and Kristi on September 10, 2018, 09:53:31 am
Once my garage is finished, I plan to get a golf cart mat to park the wheels on. It will also keep oil from the slobber tube from dripping on the new concrete. Here's one from HD: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diamond-Deck-5-ft-x-9-ft-Battleship-Gray-Golf-Cart-Mat-82059/206315010?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD23%7C23-4_VINYL_FLOORING%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000032320749%7c58700003837590705%7c92700030696245464&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh8aH88mw3QIVieNkCh2bGQuxEAQYBSABEgK5pPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKiQh_zJsN0CFTYFrQYdLQUI-A
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: rbark on September 10, 2018, 12:42:57 pm
I use a product called Swisstrax (www.swisstrax.com) . They are perforated so water drains away from tires. A little more expensive but well worth it
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Sven and Kristi on September 10, 2018, 03:29:10 pm
I use a product called Swisstrax (www.swisstrax.com) . They are perforated so water drains away from tires. A little more expensive but well worth it
I would need a single continuous piece (not squares) due to oil drips.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: rbark on September 10, 2018, 11:42:30 pm
They lock togeather to build as big a pad as you want. Do not come apart after locking in. They Also have sloping edges and corners that lock in place. Very sturdy.
Title: Re: RV Tire Pads
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on September 11, 2018, 11:19:15 am
It will also keep oil from the slobber tube from dripping on the new concrete.
It is very easy to fit a catch can on the end of your slobber tube. I used one of those aluminum tubes that welding rods come in. Cut a hole in the top that is a "loose" fit around the rubber hose, so vapors can easily escape. Hung it on the end of the tube with some baling wire. I checked the can after 2 years of use, and it only had a little bit of semi solid "gunk" in the bottom. Unless you habitually overfill your crank case, you should not get much if any actual liquid out the slobber tube - just vapor.