In nearly 2 years here I've seen many who don't use campground water hookups in favor of running the water pump off the internal water tank. Given our big water tanks this doesn't seem that inconvenient. And, using the water pump makes discovering internal plumbing leaks easy. Yes, a direct water fill also makes sense in this regard.
Do those of you who've installed a direct fill do you fill the tank this way 100% of the time?
What is the lifetime of a water pump in regular use like this? Do you carry a replacement or change periodically? Ours looks pretty inconvenient to access for replacement.
Thanks
A. We have both original "hose on a reel" fill and added-on quick fill. I use whichever is most convenient.
B. I don't know.
C. I replaced our last (still working) pump with a new one as "preventative maintenance", and carry the old one as emergency spare.
The PO of our coach installed a 2nd pump next to the original with a valve on each. I added a 2 way switch to make it easier to switch over if needed.
We've always used the water tank rather than hooking up to campground water. Well at least we started using the tank after an incident a few years ago when I inadvertently turned off the shower button but forgot to turn off the faucet (long story). Left to visit friends for a couple days. When we got back the waste tank was full and the shower pan was about to run over! Ever since then I never leave the water hose on.
Another advantage is the water will be warmer if you're in colder climates.
I just installed my direct fill, used it 8 or 10 times. It's much quicker than pushing water through all the piping then into the bottom of the tank. I changed the OEM pump about 6 years ago, replaced it with the same one Sureflo, no problem. As we boondock a bunch I do carry a spare. I also use that spare to transfer water from a 50 gal bladder when necessary. We don't necessarily live off of the tank. If water is available we use it, and ALWAYS use a 45 psi pressure regulator. No matter what the water source we try to remember to turn it off if we are gone.
Almost 18 years on the original water pump, I have a spare in my spare parts bin. I use the direct fill a couple times a year especially at home. Time to fill is cut in half. But my auto fill shutoff when the tank is full only works when using the normal filling process. I use three filters and a water softener on the incoming water. No particulates, no bugs, no mineral deposits in the hot water system.
The direct fill for me is more for adding water to the tank when we are somewhere where water is not nearby and gravity does the work.
If you don't shut off the water pump and you are away and there is a leak you will pump the quantity of the tank into wherever the leak is. We have our water pump on a programmable timer to shut itself off (5 minutes works for us)
We also have a hot water recirculation system that dramaticlly reduces the cold water down the drain while waiting for hot water.
For those who need to be connected to city water for whatever reason you could add an electric solenoid valve at the city water connection controlled by the same circuit that controls the water pump power. With city water pressure the pump,will not run.
I will be adding a quick fill to the tank vent fittings, keeps cycling clorinated water thru the tank to reduce the chance of contanination growth in the main tank, help keeps from overflow from your holding tanks, keeps your pump exercised which maybe a double edged sword. Can filter prior to pump or tank.downside while plugged in may or not be the pump.
Where can you get a quick fill to add on to tank? Would love to have the option. It currently is taking nearly an hour to fill tank through the normal fill. I suspect that somewhere there is a calcium build up since the coach sat for over a year without using the water. One more item on the to do list :)
Larry
A. We don't have a quick fill as all our water that goes on board is filtered and softened. The softerner can't do its job at large flow rates. Even at that we still acid wash our system with vinegar to clean out any calcium buildup.
B. Ours is OEM at 22 years old and still going strong. So I don't know, it's kind of like that that pink bunny on the TV.
C. We carry a spare as we never use off the land line spigot.
Pamela & Mike
You make it. Several prior threads on this subject, such as:
Water Tank Gravity Fill (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/Modifications/water-tank-gravity_fill.html)
Water Tank Fill (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34327)
What did you do to your coach today VII (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33153.msg301076#msg301076)
Larry here's how I did mine. 3/4 uniseal from Amazon, 11/4 hole saw, 3/4 valve and fittings, pipe , strap, and a piece of aluminum flat bar from big box store.
Reasons to do just that-- use CG water only to fill the tank, then pump for your potable water needs:
Keeps a new leak from turning into a catastrophic disaster. Ya, every once in a while you will see water running out the front door of a coach-- new leak with infinite supply of water.
You can control what you drink. In our travels, there are areas where we know the water is not very good. We try to avoid filling there.
You keep the water in your tank FRESH. I just don't understand how anyone can live off CG water weeks at a time, then when on the road use the tank water and then wonder why they have stomach issues.
Chuck and Bruce, thanks. I have this bookmarked. I'm sure it will be one of those things to get done this winter. Would right now, but preparing for first "official" trip to Tablerock Lake this week. ^.^d ^.^d
Larry
Our practice is to fill the fresh water tank with water from the house--if a short trip--CG or RV park water if long sojourn, and potable drinking water from one gallon jugs we bring along or purchase when needed.
The toilet, bathroom sink, and the kitchen sink seem happy with that arrangement. The cat, my coffee pot and drinking water seem happy with the bottled water also. Rocket is a bit finicky with his water. He likes it cold from the fridge.
We do have a water filter on the fill hose in the engine compartment. It takes the, about, 2" dia x 7" long commercial grade house filters, so they are readily available.
The water pump is turned on only when needed to get water from the tank.
As far as I can see, the crimp fittings on each side of the Shurflo pump are the original fittings. But keep in mind that our coach has only 85,000 miles on it.
It is best to use the tank water and replenish it when down to about 1/4 tank. Even water can get "stale" if left for long periods of time.
Pumps last forever. I personally don't like the sound of the pump running in the middle of the night. Our 97 has the manual fill valve under the bath sink, so it fills fast. I remember though how slow the electric ones filled while doing PDI's.
I cut part of the tank cover away, so I can physically watch the tank fill.Before the 1st fill, I add a spot of bleach to the hose at hookup.
We only drink water that comes through the counter filter, and that is for coffee which gets boiled. Otherwise we only drink bottled water.But not afraid to drink the counter filtered water.
I filter all water coming into coach. But if I know I am going to be on crappy water, I will fill ahead, and use the tank.
Personally I don't like hauling all the un-used water around. 150 gallons of fuel is enough
Lastly, whenever we return from a trip, no matter how short, I drain and blow out the coach. Especially the water heater. Have smelled too many surprise from from customers coaches.
Chris
I also have a water hose reel (original from Bob's coach (Paul Smith's), thanks, Bob). For my direct fill, I plumbed the reel output directly to the tank so I can always use the reel hose when filling. If I want to use city water to fill the tank (never do) I just disconnect the direct fill hose from the tank and connect it at the city water fill fitting.
I too removed the fiberglass cover from the water tank so I can see what's going on in there.
jor
Eighteen years of full-time living and traveling in our Foretravel, we have never used city water pressure to supply our faucets. Our city water inlet is capped with a plastic garden hose male-threaded cap and has not been removed in the 18 years.
100% water pump, all Shurflo, now a bypass pump model, which allows us to turn pump off when we leave, now with a pump switch next to door to facilitate last minute turn off and to notify us when pump is on with the LED.
We fill with a gravity feed that also allows us to add ounce of bleach with each weekly fill-up. We use about 60 to 100 gal a week and our water is turned over every week. The little regular household bleach diluted in a quart bottle is added to keep things safe as city/well water may not be chlorinated. Our carbon filter removes city chlorination and we add back a measured amount.
Some campground have over 100 psi and to rely on a pressure regulator is risky for our pipes and valves to not leak at some time. A few well-located water alarms keep us informed if there is a problem.
Yes a spare water pump is nice to have, but we have never worn one out, just changing with technology improved. A spare pump can be utilized to fill from a bucket if necessary.
We have a water hose reel and a direct top of the tank fill plumbed in. We always use the tank. It's pex plumbed with a valve that allows me to send shore water to the tank, or to bypass the fill and send it right to the water lines. I don't use that route.
I do carry a spare water pump just in case. Everything going into the tank gets filtered on the way to the tank. I have a Culligan canister filter setup. For coffee we filter the water again at the sink dispenser and pour it in a Zerowater pitcher. From there is goes into the coffee maker.
For drinking we use bottled water.
We usually travel with half a tank. We have a SeeLevel tank monitor. When I do fill the tank I stop at about 95%.
Some parks have high pressure, low volume. Some have low volume high pressure. We like lots of pressure when taking showers.
All though our new Surflow pump has around 50 PSI, I use a Campco adjustable regulator with gauge. I find in parks with low pressure, the fixed 40 psi ones are too wimpy.In the past I just took the fixed one off.
I have a screw on gauge that I always check pressure with first. The Campco has one on it.
I paid $80.00 when they 1st came out. I looked every where, then found it on the net. Now you can get them for $30.00 at Wally World
Chris
Water pumps are very quiet if installed with flexible in and out hose connections, and placing pump on thick piece of foam. We do not hear our water pump.
I agree, we did all that. What a difference.
Chris
Running with a full tank of water and empty holding tanks gives us the comfort knowing no matter what happens, we don't have to worry about being stuck on the 'side of the road'. Never know what is in store after we leave a campground. And even if all is well, being able to find an unexpected nice place to dry camp for a week or so leaves all options on the table for us. We don't consider the extra weight of water to be
City water pressure may surge to a high psi from time to time, so measuring on arrival is only a guide.
We also consider the small round brass or plastic end of hose water pressure cylinder regulator be limited and too much of a restrictor. Foretravel installed these 'restrictors' on the back side of our city water inlet.
LOL...Jor you don't happen to have the original manuals for this coach too do you? Someone in the past walked away with them.....
Ah shucks..
After my fiasco of trying to fill the tank with all the tubing and shut off's on this coach, next year plan to add a direct fill, but for now, will only fill the tank and then use that water until I have to fill it again. Don't like the idea of using city water. To much chance of something going wrong.
My water bay maniblock side has no cover and I am ok with that. I can see at a glance how much water is in the tank. I can smell if the black or grey develops a leak. But I guess its easier for a rodent to get into there and mess things up, maybe.
One day I will install a hose reel and power reel. One day....
And now is the day, or soon. Problem is my bay is to short by 2 inches to mount the glendinning Crr50 side by side with the water reel. If I put it on the back, it just fits but not sure I can use it that way. Tried calling them but to late. Will call on Monday. In the meantime, any ideas?
I thought of cutting a hole in the bulkhead between the fw tank and grey but there is a steel support in the way. Otherwise I will have to put the water reel on the passenger side. And it's only 35 feet.
Pic shows the power reel on its back and the water reel on the left. Only way I can get them both in side by side. Also when standing right side up it's almost to deep, it hits the water tank.
Stager them by shoving the water wheel back further. That's what I had to do. The water reel is shorter than the electric reel.
On water pressure regulators, we used to use a adjustable regulator with gauge on the previous coach.
Now we use this one (I bought 2 at once in case one disappears). https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Fixed.htm
Great regulator, good flow.
I thought of that but haven't tried it yet. But I will. In fact, I'm going to see now.😁
Not planning on having it hooked up for city water. I will only use it for filling the tank. Maybe some day I might.
It works but it's tight. Will have to rewire the switch on the water reel.
We've never hooked up to city water other than filling the tank. We even turn off the water pump when we leave the coach and at night. Too much chance of filling the coach and the basement if a fitting fails no matter how good of a regulator is after the domestic faucet.
You could put a quick fill in the side of the tank and leave the hose connected but only turned on when the tank gets low.
Pierce
I only use city water to fill the tank. I can run 3-4 days without fill. I don't hookup sever or water unless I am dumping or filling. Makes for less work!
Pat,
I agree. I have a quick fill in the tank now but not fully done with the install yet.
I am going to run the water line through a series of filters that I've just purchased and waiting on the shipment. It'll be a total of five. They are going to be in the 10-in by 4.5-in filters. The first 2 are 10" by 2.5".
First one would be a sediment filter, second one will be a one micron carbon block filter, third one is at one micron absolute filter, fourth one is a GAF filter, and the last one is a Dalton ceramic filter. You can purchase them online already made up for 700 bucks or make your own like I am doing for half that. I'm going to put in a couple valves so that the water will fill the tank through them and then when I'm done filling the tank it will draw through them again instead of water will get double filtered. I expect to have to change the sediment filter every three or four months but the other ones will last 6 months or more. The ceramic filter should last a long time. If I'm ever going into a place where I'm worried about viruses I'll add a UV light to a drinking water spicket. only thing is I have to put the filters on the passenger side of the wet bay. and then run the line back over to my direct fill on the driver's side.
I could also easily add an RO membrane to it as well.
Also putting in a solenoid and switch to pull hot water from the mana block and back over to the tank so I don't waste water waiting for the hot.
We're with those who only hook things up when needed. Tomorrow is the regular day to dump and fill, so I'll get out the things needed for those tasks. When two tanks are empty and the third one full it all will be put away until next week. The Ranch requests that everyone keep their tanks full, so I usually add fresh water sometime in the middle of the week, but we can, and do, easily go a week on a full tank of water. If we went to using disposable dishes, etc. so that I only do dishes once a day we could go even longer.
Posting the photos again as it's an easy way to fill the tank with quick connects on the hose. Most any kind of filter will fit the housing and remove anything it's listed to remove. The fill time was about 15 minutes at our campsite. I could add a little bleach to the tank but would have to pull the filter to do that. Or I could use the OEM water fill to get the bleach in the tank. About $50 for all the parts for my installation.
If you occasionally sanitize your water tank, the incoming filter should trap most contaminants (depending on the filter you install) and if you add bleach to the tank, the filter below the sink should get rid of any taste.
Pierce
Just pour some bleach in the hose before you hook it up.
Do it all the time.
CW
I can't pour bleach into the hose as the filter will get rid of it before it gets to the tank. That's why pouring it into the hose and then using the OEM tank fill insures the bleach with reach the tank. I use a charcoal filter in my quick fill arrangement.
https://www.appliedmembranes.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf/filters/H-F2510AC_AMI_Carbon_Block_Filter_Cartridge_10-inch_Standard.pdf
Pierce