My air compressor died and I was faced with buying a new one ( larger than I had, 2 stage, mostly to power a 3/4" impact that I use on my Motorhome and any other task I may ask of it.
To upgrade to a larger compressor I would need to run a 220v line and find a permanent location for the compressor.
I would also lose any chance of the compressor being mobile.
I decided that I would buy a simple, decent compressor that would fill my immediate needs and then give it to my son when I was ready to install the bigger unit.
I started to re-think my needs, maybe instead of buying a bigger compressor that can't be moved I would be happy with a cordless battery powered 1/2" impact. The ratings on these indicate that they would hang in there with my 3/4" air impact. It would also be easy to transport.
I have always rejected cordless tools always thinking that a cord or a hose attached would prove better. Its not easy to get this old brain to except new concepts in tools.
What are the better brands and models of the cordless units?
Are they TRULY as powerful as they claim?
35 years of selling tools to the consumer here.
Two brands I've always felt good recommending are:
1) Bosch
2) Porter Cable.
If asked for a third, then DeWalt.
Zero experience with Snap On and such.
Compare the specs and get the best you can, in your budget.
Buy from Lowes, hold onto your reciept and try it.
If you no like, bring it back in reasonable condition and time for a full refund.
Milwaukee 18 volt with free battery at Home Depot. 1400 lbs torque
Ken
Yes, they are incredibly powerful. I had a flat at a funeral with a flat tire. Called AAA and the guy changed it with a 1/2" Snap-On cordless. Pretty small but it had no trouble with the 22.5s. Down side was the price at the time of about $600. Milwaukee also had one for about $400. He did put in a new battery to reinstall the spare.
So, for the big jobs, the cordless 1/2" do wonders. For small jobs that are super easy to handle, the combo 12V kits fit nicely in the hand and the batteries last a long time. I did my deck with one and use it almost everyday.
Lots of good brands out there now. The competition is fierce.
Yes Ken, you probably need two batteries to R&R a tire to make sure it is torqued right. Nice to have a torque wrench to make sure.
On the other hand, an air reservoir tank at the end of a regular air hose with a short 3/8" or 1/2" ID hose coming out of the tank and a 1/2" air impact will also do a good job. This is what I use.
Pierce
Been a while since I've sold Big Red. I remember their quality as being very good.
I have a Bosch cordless drill that came with 2 batteries. Lowes had a great deal on the 1/2" impact so I got it. It came with 2 of the same batteries. Now have 4 interchangeable units. Impact can also take screwdriver bits. Not tried it on big wheels but it works great on car sizes. Other things being equal what ever you get it makes sense to stay with same brand you may have for the reasons above.
Keith
I have a Milwaukee 1/2 drive impact and since I've gotten it I have not used my air impact. They advertise that they will do over 600
foot pounds to tighten and over 110 foot pounds to loosen but I have found that to be a big exaggeration. I still find it works better
than my air impact gun. They make a 3/4 drive impact which may do a bit better.
Bought the Harbor Freight Earthquake and couldnt be happier. Worked all the shocks (the ones I could reach).. Tires on the jeep and so on.. bee na a great product and it works hard.
I read a review of the Harbor Freight model, The guy reviewing it actually took it apart and analyzed every part including the battery. He then re-assembled it and tried the advertised torque figures, he was STUNNED that it exceeded its advertised values and the workmanship/parts in the tool and battery. A contender!
I have two air compressors: One for my garage with 100' of hose on a reel and a smaller one with 3 gallon tank that goes to 150 PSI for the RV that I use to maintain tire pressures. I don't have experience with cordless 3/4" models and am surprised they will take the lugs off our rigs. I have used a number of cordless drivers and impact drivers and have settled on Rigid 18v, Milwaukee 12v and Makita 10.8v. I've remodeled two houses including two decks using these tools and keep waiting for one to fail so I can get a nice new shiny one. Lithium batteries seem to last forever, where the old NiCad types were good for about a year. If I were to buy a heavy duty (gorilla) unit, I would look at the Rigid solely because of the lifetime warranty (you have to register on line).
I would not hesitate to buy a Harbor Freight tool, since "all" the US name brands are made in China. They obviously know how to make tools.
I buy a lot of HF stuff. I had intended to buy a HF air compressor until I saw only a 90 day warranty. I bought a similar unit at Menards that had a 2 year guarantee. Most of the big box stores offered a 1 or 2 year manufacturers warranty.
I looked at the HF Earthquake, again, 90 days.
I can buy a name brand unit for close to the same price with a warranty in years instead of days.
I refuse to have to spend extra for a extended warranty. Total racket!
I picked up a Craigslist contractor's compressor good to 150 PSI for $40. It's small, low CFM but with the remote air tank, I just start the coach's generator, start the compressor and in a few minutes, my 1/2" impact is ready to go (or my 1" impact). It makes a racket so glad I don't have to use it all the time. I have a regulator/dryer to keep most of the moisture out of the line and gun.
The HF Earthquake is a good buy and should take any nut off.
Pierce
We carry a Milwaukee 1/2" and a Makita impact cordless drills. Two batteries for both. We have adapters for 1/2, 3/8 and 1/2" sockets. We also carry a small Makita 2 tank 150 psi compressor. I have a couple of air impact wrenches but have not used them.
I have a Bosch 1/2" impact driver 18 volt lithium. Also have their jigsaw, multitool, light and grinder. Can't say one bad thing about their tools. If I didn't have Bosch it would be feestool or fein. But they are more expensive. The HF tools are not my first choice, nor my second in electric tools, but for the price you can buy several for the price of one German tool.
The bosch can be inexpensive if you look around. Batteries on Ebay cheap.
That would be my recommendation.
Bob
I'm with all the Bosch Owners. I've had nothing but good luck with these, for way too many years. Purchased a new set of powerful cordless tools about 2 years ago, you my pay a bit more than others, but worth it IMHO. I also have the Blower, Portable Vacuum, etc. which uses like batteries. I am hearing good things about HF's new line, worth checking out.
For those who would like to mix cordless with air powered tools, I made up a portable air tank today out of a free 10 gallon propane tank. The fittings cost about $15 and a little work to get the old ones off. This has two ports but single port bottles will work fine. This brings a large volume of compressed air close to where you are working and if you use a short hose to the gun or tool, not much is lost in friction loss. You do need to clean the tank out with detergent or the smell will drive you crazy. Bottles are tested to 960 PSI burst pressure.
This bottle will also be good to pressurize and take to a remote location to air tires.
I went with horizontal inlet/outlet so the hoses would be less likely to tip the bottle over.
Pierce
What size socket for our coach wheels?
Just ordered a Dewalt 1/2" impact DCF899 since I have all Dewalt tools and a few batteries.
So, all wheel fasteners are not the same. With duals in the back, you need a "flip" socket. Once you pull the outside dual off, you will see a square end of the stud pointing toward you. You flip the socket, put it back on your extension and away you go. Measure the big nut and then buy the socket at NAPA or truck suppliers/ebay.
This is the one that fits our 1993 U300. The translation is the hex side fits 1 1/2" and the square end fits 13/16"
You should also plan on an extension and perhaps an adaptor to 3/4" if required. This is if your impact needs a little help breaking the nuts loose. No seize on the threads make the job easier the next time and reduce the torque required. Only a little just on the threads.
flip socket truck | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=132521456791&rmvSB=true&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=flip+socket+truck&_sacat=0)
Pierce
The guy you saw was probably AvE on youtube. I've been binge watching a bunch of his stuff. He hilarious and educational. He does use a few bad words so stay away if that offends ya.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkPzjV-ZaTU
see ya
ken
How much torque does it take to break loose a lug nut? How much torque does it take to tighten one?
Do you actually take off your wheels? When?
I have 18v Makita impact drivers and drill and several batteries and 12v Bosch compact drill and impact drivers. 18v Makita 1/2" impact driver w/o batteries is about $280. > 750 ft lb tightening, > 1150 ft lbs break away torque.
The size of the socket depends on whether you have stud piloted wheels or hub piloted wheels. The stud piloted wheels have 1 1/2 inch nuts on the front wheels with the left wheels being left handed threads and the right side have right handed threads. The rear wheels have 1 1/2 inch outer nuts and the inner nuts take the square bud wheel socket. The hub piloted wheels take a 33 mm as I remember and there are no extra nuts holding on the inner wheel. I am not sure what year they changed to the hub piloted wheels.
Depends on the last guy that air gunned your wheels on.
If you use anti-seize/Never-Seez with just a little on the threads, none on the mating surface, about 450-500 foot-pounds reduced by 25% for the antiseize so, 335-375 foot-pounds but tightened with a torque wrench, never a impact.
Good to pull wheels once a year and make sure studs are in good shape. Never, never let a shop air gun the nuts to install. Can break studs when trying to take off and result in a delay getting new stud(s) installed. Yearly is mandatory if you drive in the winter where the roads are salted.
Another good reason to buy one or two HF air jacks. Removing tire/wheel is easy and takes little strength if you raise suspension so the tire is just barely touching the ground, never off the ground or you make it tough on yourself.
Pierce
Don't know about R&Ring wheels once a year, my rears where off in 2012.
I remove my wheels to remove and clean my slide pins. One year I do the fronts and the next year I do the backs. I use my snap on multiplier to achieve this which is a lot of work. Looks like I need to rethink this as the earthquake would make this a lot easier.
Jason
Keep an eye out on either craigslist or ebay. I just ordered a Dewalt DCF899 for $175. Doesn't have a battery but uses the same lithium packs that I have for my other Dewalt tools. That should save some straining.
If you want to give your Earthquake a fair chance, use an air supply tank like I made and no matter what size line you use to supply it, a short larger diameter air hose from tank to tool will allow it to reach it's rated torque. Plus, the air tank gets rid of a lot of moisture that would normally get to the gun. Use air tool oil into the gun each time you use it and it will last forever.
Air gun the nuts back on but use your multiplier to achieve final torque.
Pierce
I don't own an impact wrench, but would like one. I asked this question a while back. Has anyone tried using the on board air tank and compressor to drive an impact wrench?
Yes. Assuming 110psi, that should be at the lower end for a gun like an Earthquake. The problem is friction loss in the line getting to the gun. Lots of people have been disappointed with their gun when it's the small diameter hose that's the problem. A 50 foot quarter inch hose required to reach all the tires comfortably is not going to do the trick. That's where the tank and short larger diameter hose work well. You may have to wait for the tank to come back up to pressure after a few nuts are removed but no big deal.
I use a reel with smaller vinyl line to reach my gun supply tank. It plugs into either the coach air or my small contractor's compressor. Easy and cheap solution.
Note: since the photo was taken, the hose deteriorated and I have replaced it with a HF yellow synthetic air hose.
Pierce
The restriction I see is the 1/4" hole size of the fittings and the entry hole in the impact wrench. Are the holes in the compressor and the impact wrench accordingly larger?
I don't recall quick disconnect fittings with holes larger than 1/4"
Where would they be available, as I am quite interested in having the capability. I have a 3/4" impact wrench and 125 PSI compressor.
Nitehawk,
Quite correct as the entry hole is 1/4". Since this is an extremely short distance, the friction loss is not that bad but but there are larger quick connects available for big guns. See the fitting I welded onto the stainless air tank I carry. I have a very large 1" impact. Here is a source for the larger fittings: Amazon.com: 1/2 Inch - Quick Connect Hose Fittings / Hose Fittings: Industria... (https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Connect-Hose-Fittings/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A6001527011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7067241011) I use TF style couplers.
So, you can use a smaller supply line to the air gun tank and wait for it to reach your maximum pressure and then your big gun will be happy...until the pressure lowers and you have to wait a bit.
I use a double male on the coach/compressor line to get air into the tank as I didn't want the extra complexity of a valve.
Check the big quick connect fitting on my tank below. This could be done on an old propane tank without welding and with cheap plastic fittings.
Why not just use your impact with a torque stick to put the nuts back on? Way cheaper than a torque wrench and no worry about calibration.
Amazon.com: Steelman 60164 1-inch Drive Yellow 475 ft-lb Torque Extension:... (http://www.amazon.com/Steelman-60164-1-inch-Yellow-Extension/dp/B07D93PB1T)
see ya
ken
It won't let you over torque but no way to be sure torque is reached unless you are using a 1" drive with a lot more torque. The adaptors to go from one size to another loses a lot of torque.