My Webasto controller is dying and I am interested in rebuilding the board. Does anyone have experience in this area that would be willing to share information on what needs to be replaced? Any help or guidance would be appreciated!
Thanks
Chris
We have a commercial member who rebuilds them, I have one on my coach now and it works great. I carry a spare along with flame sensor and nozzles.
Aqua Hot controller box repair (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15664.0)
Depends on what the symptoms are. My only experience is with the older metal can version.
The electrolytic capacitors tend to fail as they age. The capacitors determine timing, I've had several that failed to stop the blower properly and cycled on/off. I've had success replacing the capacitors however other components can fail. A schematic of the circuit board would be great but no success finding one. On the older metal enclosed controllers the connector end can be pryed off and the ciucuit board slides out.
If you know a little about electronic circuits and you're handy soldering it may be worth trying. Cost of new controllers is ridiculous and they last 7 years or so. I have two controllers and replacing the capacitors fixed both of them.
Capacitors are available from Newark Electronics and they're cheap.
Controller Capacitors
2 ea 220 uf Axial 16VDC C1 & C3
1 ea 100 uf Radial 25V C4
1 ea 10 uf Axial 63V C2 (I believe this one controls motor purge time)
1 ea 470 uf Radial 35V C5
1 ea 10 uf Axial 33V C6
David, thanks for the input--Would you also know the numbers for the relays?
Thanks
Chris
I had our silver controller box changed out when we first bought the coach. I kept the old box, and I am considering sending it to be rebuilt by Jim Frerichs, and keep it as a spare. the cost will be just under $400, with a core exchange. The question I have is....Is this " overkill "?? I sure wouldn't want to lose the function of the box while we are traveling in Mexico, but even Jim says that when people call to complain about the rebuild, it is usually something else. He also suggested getting a spare flame sensor. Do these fail often?? They cost about $200 !!! I just ordered spare nozzle and filters to take along. should I get the sensor??
I carry one, murphy's law says if you have it you never use it. I would hate to be on vacation and not have the two things that usually fail, controller and flame sensor. They are also very easy to change on the road. Over kill might be coil, igniters and fuel pump.
the Saga continues--- I still have not been able to find the relays for the SG 1553/12V Aqua hot controller but I have got the capacitors all ordered. I did find that on my control board the C2 and C6 were both 10 uf 63V. It seems that anyone with Knowledge about overhauling these controllers are pretty tight lipped. In the mean time I found a solid state SG 1553/12V replacement located in the UK for 211.98 GBH at todays exchange rate that comes out to about 278.00 USD plus about 15.00 shipping with supposedly no duties. I paid with pay pal and it seems they charged me about 4% for transaction fee. If you pay with credit card some don't charge a transaction fee. But with pay pal hopefully I won't loose credit card no. to someone across the water.
The controller that is sold on RV aqua hot parts had a D at end of part number, where as the one in UK had a C. I emailed the company and they assured me it was only A mfg number change with no difference in controller. RV Aqua hot parts list it at 973.01
After exchange rate and pay pal cost I am paying 289.72 including shipping. When It comes in I will install and run Aqua Hot system then report back on performance.
I still want to overhaul the one I have, So if anyone can help with relay Mfg and part numbers I would appreciate it.
I guess I'll be the guinepig for this but I couldn't convince myself to pay 450.00 for overhaul or 973.00 for a new one
PS for 50.00 I'll have enough capacitors to overhaul 10 control units and over 20 was for shipping
Chris
I forgot to include the company I ordered from it is
Heatso.com
Chris
They have emailed me and said it was shipped "here is to hoping I haven't been scammed"
The relays in these controllers are a very heavy duty relay. The points may have a small amount of pitting, A very gentle cleaning with fine Emory cloth will clean them right up.. Usually capacitors get fat when they fail.. There are several transistors on the board, It is a high possibility one of those could fail.... There is a test box made , the controller can be plugged into it and it tests each function separetly... If you can get the box tested you would know which circuit has failed.. Otherwise it is a hit and miss game..... Best of luck !
Dave
Thanks Dave, I'm old school and tight, Have been told that some of the relays get weak springs therefore won't stay closed. Most of the parts I have found are inexpensive but haven't been able to get anyone to give up part no's on the 2 different relays.
From talking to some of the forum members that have had problems it was either relays or capacitors--not saying it couldn't be a transistor that just hasn't been problem that members I have talked to had!
Would love to get a test box if it wasn't of prohibitive expense.
I have been certified by Aqua Hot as a "Tech" and will be available when home if some one is in central Arkansas and needs Aqua hot service. We have 50A hook-up and water if someone needed to stay overnight.
Since Rudy is in Houston area I don't think I will be interfering with his business, plus he has been doing it a lot of years and is very Knowledgeable of the systems.
Chris
BTW the new controller came in, I ordered it on Saturday and it came on Monday-- put it in and turned system on, so far everything has worked normally, I have been running it of and on for past week and half
"here is hoping all is OK"
Chris
If you look closely I believe the springs open the latching plate from the coils.. The magnetic coil closes the contacts.. So all the spring has to do is lift the weight of the latching plate... If you look at the coil closely you can see the activation circuit. And test it in the board.. If you have a Good solder sucker you could remove the coil and test it ..
Good Luck
Dave
Hi Chris,
How is the new controller holding up.
Thanks,
Bob
So during initial inspection i noticed that the C2 and C6 are the same value at 10uf Axial 63v
Will order extra if anyone needs PM me
My unit was working good but since I'm changing the ignition unit this would be the other weak link. Proactively changing capacitors is good in my opinion. I know no one has touched them prior to 2007, so they are old and have been threw many summers.
Scott