After losing my dash lights and drivers map light, I have been trying to remove the pull switch on the dash. According to one of the members from a post 4 years ago, there is a button to push and the knob and shaft will pull out of the switch which can then be removed and the switch disconnected. I don't see any button to push. Where is it located if I have one on this switch?
The Oreilly counter man said that I can just pull real hard and it will pop out of a retaining ring. Tried that, thought I was going to break the dash. Trying not to break anything if possible.
One post also suggested the ignition solenoid behind the copilot dash. How would that be tested to see if it would produce dash/map lights? I replaced that solenoid a couple of years ago when the engine wouldn't start before putting it into storage.
Any suggestions would be greatly helpful.
Thanks in advance,
Larry
Keep looking. I just finished changing the ignition switch on our towed. Hard to find the "button" but easy to remove the ignition switch after you find it and hold it in.
Just a thought---Maybe yours requires an ice pick or something small in diameter inserted into a hole.
Larry,
Before you start taking things apart are you sure it's the switch? Don't know if you have trouble shot it yet but use a meter or better yet a probe type test light. Look at your schematic and see if it's switching the power properly. I like the sharp 12 volt test lights (see below) as you can stab the wire to test.
Note: Never make holes in wire that is exposed to moisture or road chemicals. You will have internal corrosion that will cause almost untraceable faults in the future. Doing that when I was in charge of municipal fleets was a hanging offense.
Keith
Amazon.com: 12v test light probe (https://www.amazon.com/12v-test-light-probe/s?page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3A12v%20test%20light%20probe)
Where is the hole or button located in relation to the switch?
Larry, I believe you have to have the key in the ignition in the "ON" position in order to remove if you find the cylinder release.
Keith, I will see if I have a schematic in the manuals and check the wires. I think it might be the rheostat failing, but not sure. Went out a few minutes ago and the map light worked but not the dash lights.
Larry
Nitehawk, are you talking about the ignition switch? I repaired that yesterday (yeah) and it does have the hole next to the key. I am trying to fix the headlight switch now. I'm not getting dash lights.
Thanks,
Larry
Sorry, misunderstood. There is usually a button that is held in so the headlight shaft can be eased out.
If you don't have one, maybe best idea if you can't remove the shaft is to grind the plastic knob off and then remove the switch from the back of the dash.
thanks Nitehawk. It may be the last resort. Just bought a probe sensor, going to look for schematic and test.
Larry
If you lost the dash lights and the drivers map light it is definitely the head light switch. The button to remove the knob and shaft from the switch is on the bottom of the body of the switch opposite where the wires plug in. It can be difficult to remove the shaft just keep tension on the knob and pull on it while pressing the metal button. The switch is plug and play so remove the top wire connectors from the body. You will see that the coil that activities the dimmer is burnt .
Added hint: push the button in BEFORE you put any pressure on the shaft.
Thanks Gerry, I will see if I can locate it. After checking the wires with a probe, the dash lights came on. Go figure. They are sporatic and when I wiggle the knob, they will flicker off and on. I think it would behoove me to replace the switch and put die electric grease on the electrical connections.
To remove the switch from the mounting bracket is just the two clips on the side????? Should I loosed the nut holding the mounting bracket to the dash??
Thanks Gerry and Nitehawk,
Larry
To remove the wiring harness on the back of your switch, take a small screwdriver and spread one side away from the switch body while maintaining a slight pull on the back of the connector/wires. Once one side is free, do the opposite side.
Oh, I would disconnect the battery before doing anything electrical.
Larry,
Here's a youtube video that shows the button. Lots of videos on how to replace that switch. One other thing: If the plastic ears that hold the connector break, don't freak out. It's no big deal.
headlight switch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7iBA7aQEno)
jor
OK, the sound you just heard was that of angels singing. :)) :)) I found the button on the bottom of the switch (thank you Gerry) but it didn't want to release. loosened the mounting frame so that I could turn it sideways and the handle came right out. I had disconnected the plug in connector but not the battery, my bad.
Went to Oreilly. The one they pulled up was a 7 terminal switch. Mine is 8 terminal. Turned out he had one on the shelf. Oreilly part #S415, He said the AC Delco part # was D1588. A universal switch was 82P20 for the older model Chevy's.
Thanks everyone for their patience and help. As you can tell, automotive electrical is not my highest point. However the learning curve seems to be slightly getting flatter.
Thanks to all on this forum. Without you guys, I would have to stay in a tent. :o :coffee:
Larry
Lights working OK now? ???
Didn't check the outside lites, :o but the dash and map work great ;)
Larry