Let know if I am right or wrong please. I am conducting an experiment (for me) on solar power. Put the coach back in storage, I put a Harbor Freight 100w solar kit temporarily on the roof. Attached the solar to the house batteries. With the amp-l-start running, I expect that to keep the start battery up to charge. I intend to monitor the batteries periodically over the next few weeks. When I left, the start battery across the posts was reading 13.2v. I didn't check the house batteries (looking back wish I would have). The salesman switch is off. Anything I am forgetting or what should I look for in the way of batteries being charged to cause alarm. If this goes well, I might add a real solar system to the coach in the future. Many of you have gone before me with solar and have a universe of knowledge which I would like to tap.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
Hope you bought the charge controller. The one that comes with the system doesn't control the system very well. It is a monitor, not a controller. About $34 at HF.
Thanks Nitehawk. Didn't know, didn't buy, but that will change. This is why I ask. I didn't know what I didn't know.
Larry
Nitehawk, i'm confused (whats new). According to the owner's manual, the controller is built into the monitor system. Maximum charging output of 14.4v, minimum battery voltage 12.6v, won't charge if battery is @ 10.6v. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Larry
I'm not an electrical engineer, but my neighbor is and he recommended the charge controller over the one that comes with the system. He installed the same system we have at his cottage up north.
My Charge controller box does list a few things the OEM unit does not have. (again, I ain't no lectrical injuneir)
1. Prevents battery back-drain thru panels at night (huh?)
2. Reduces overall system maintenance (again huh?)
3. Protects battery against temperature overage (makes sense to me)
4. Easy to read LCD display (yup)
Again, read the disclaimer above re lectrical injunier.
Thanks Nitehawk. I can't even say lectical injuneir :))
Larry
Larry, 100 watts of solar charging 3 8Ds and three start batteries is an average of a fraction of an amp per battery. On average you will do well to put 300 watts into the batteries per day. At 13.2 volts that average out to less than 1 amp per hr. Peaks will be higher. Make sure you start with fully charged batteries. Just check your voltage once a week for a few weeks to see what it is doing. Check voltage from the neg post on one battery to the positive post on the battery at the other end of the sting. If it is doing what you want batteries should stay around 13.2 volts
Thanks Roger. My coach only has 2 8Ds for house and 1 8D for the starter. Would love to add more, especially the starter. Maybe a future project. Planning on checking at least weekly till I get either warm and fuzzy or see it isn't working. If it doesn't work, the batteries come out fast and easy and go to the garage on trickle charge.
Larry
1 8D is plenty for an engine start on your M11 engine. If it is starting slowly check cable connections or the starter motor. This assumes the battery is good.
The one battery usually starts it reasonably well. It is 3 years old, but seems to hold a good charge. If I have to, I can switch the boost switch on to help. The starter was replaced this spring. Hope it lasts 20 years :D
Larry
Don't forget to clean the snow off :D yah right, leave there, coach roof is dangerous enough when dry.
Scary to think that they are calling for snow already. Not supposed to get this far east, but you don't know. :o
Larry